i am a huge fan of shane dorian. i met him some years ago and the thing that stuck in my mind was how down to earth this guy was. we corresponded via email for a little while when he was using his sister's account. gave me some good advice and i never forgot that. even tried to base my style off his.
i watched Momemtum II before going surfing today and was reminded of a new video called Blueprint, which I guess is the story of shane-o. i am thinking about dropping some clams but was curious if anybody here has seen it yet. if so, is it worth it? thanks.
the surf today was awesome. took a drive down the coast. scored a beautiful and highly rippable left breaking about a quarter mile out on what is normally a docile sandbar during conditions like what today saw. waves at Spot-X were chest to shoulder high. no wind whatsoever. a low tide rising funked the inside, making for a strange paddle out. had this left to myself for hours.
simply a picture perfect day. fog offshore, with a few tracers floating toward shore. the sea was a brilliant turquiose with shades of grey where the marine layer was. almost looked like steam rising off a sauna.
i watched Momemtum II before going surfing today and was reminded of a new video called Blueprint, which I guess is the story of shane-o. i am thinking about dropping some clams but was curious if anybody here has seen it yet. if so, is it worth it? thanks.
the surf today was awesome. took a drive down the coast. scored a beautiful and highly rippable left breaking about a quarter mile out on what is normally a docile sandbar during conditions like what today saw. waves at Spot-X were chest to shoulder high. no wind whatsoever. a low tide rising funked the inside, making for a strange paddle out. had this left to myself for hours.
simply a picture perfect day. fog offshore, with a few tracers floating toward shore. the sea was a brilliant turquiose with shades of grey where the marine layer was. almost looked like steam rising off a sauna.
