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Cloudbreak what the fvck
- Thread starter stringcheese
- Start date
The more you laugh the less you focus on the pain right? Those are the best friends to have with you in those situationsChinese red sauce and I are best buds haha.
Yea they are classic, they will patch up while laughing at you. .
These guys and I have traveled a bunch now and are like brothers, absolutely no mercy.
Oh it hurts bad? what you need to do is take some try-actin...
huh?...try-actin??
yea try acting like a man you sissy
In the accute, oxygen is more of an immediate need than 100% of my blood and skin is. I’m not saying I want to go across the reef, i’m saying that’s a bummer, while a deep hold down is “change the way your mind works” stuff.
Fortunately for everyone, cloudbreak appears to offer us both.
Fortunately for everyone, cloudbreak appears to offer us both.
Heavily. That’s why I know better. Water is just water. Hold your breath. Reef/concrete will fuck you up. Remember this was a “would you rather…” scenario. I’d rather hold my breath than suffer cuts, contusions, abrasions.
A few years back I got back into skating parks. Back in ”The Day” we skated vert ramps. Today’s mostly non-vert parks result in much worse ground impacts.
Was skating the park in ojai, fully padded - helmet, knees, elbows, wrists.
Fell…..
…..on my hip.
Walked with a limp for six months. That retired me from skating parks at the age of 45.
That’s the thing. You can “change the way your mind works” now, out of the water. Work on your breathing. Once you understand that worst case scenario you are being held under water for 20 seconds you will understand that pretty much anyone can handle it. Keep calm, relax, go with the flow.
If you’re prone to panic in these situations you’re as good as dead so train yourself no it to panic.
i hope all surfers get reef shredded into hamburger AND THEN drown horrifically, with only stupid looking fish present to hear insane underwater screams as life leaves your useless body, red bubbles to the surface
afterwards reef sharks consume your corpse in an enthusiastic fashion, a “frenzy” if you will, these brainless imbecilic examples of nature fighting over your carcass only to die themselves in the near future every motion and caloric expenditure only a vain, pointless extension of the idiotic charade called life
-- Don Henley 1977
afterwards reef sharks consume your corpse in an enthusiastic fashion, a “frenzy” if you will, these brainless imbecilic examples of nature fighting over your carcass only to die themselves in the near future every motion and caloric expenditure only a vain, pointless extension of the idiotic charade called life
-- Don Henley 1977
yea cool, was only trying to say i equate surfing over reef to that of skateboarding - a reef rash is like an everyday thing on a skateboard, some stiches' - inevitable, broken bones, all part of it,etc.. just another day on the board. walk it off if able and then - try again.
even though i can hold my breath about 3 minutes on land - 20 seconds under water is scary for me. i hate that dark claustrophobic feeling. its gotten less scary as time goes on and its been a long time since Ive gotten that panicked feeling but i know its just a few exrtra seconds away.
p.s. hippers are the worst.
I agree wholeheartedly, but I need to hold off on that sort of trip until the divorce is settled.. attorneys recco.
hell I’m in Florida rn visiting my mother, staying in a cheap Airbnb and borrowing a car, hardly spending a dime, and my lawyer said “don’t tell your ex you’re in Florida!”
if I can keep it discreet I do want to get down to Iguana in May, but I can keep that trip off the socials and off of her radar. And in the event she does hear about it, at least she has an idea that Nica is a fairly low cost trip, while tavarua most certainly is not. She was there with me in 2019, she knows what it cost lol
My all time favorite Cloubreak clip.
Song fuckin Rules and makes the vid building intensity with the size.
When that mutant wave shows up?!
Song fuckin Rules and makes the vid building intensity with the size.
When that mutant wave shows up?!
Does she know about the erbB? If so you should probably edit out the part about Florida
Felipe, is that you?
Nope, can't surf small waves either.
1) Swimming for the surface and then bumping the back of my head on the sand....but at least then I was able to panic kick off the bottom.
2) That part where you are being shoved sideways (to the surface) through the "more water than air" froth that doesn't displace your mass even when wind-milling your arms and egg-beating your legs in a frenzy so that you end up trying to strain the froth with your teeth to get air (in theory, denser water would be restrained while the air just slips through the spaces between your teeth....in practice, not so much).
3) Toes brushing the bottom but before you can push off the bottom, its "washing machine spin-cycle engaged" time.
4) Hitting something alive in the dark when you're out of air is unpleasant too.
5) Feeling warm and comfortable with not getting to the shore when you were shivering moments before were thinking you can hold out for another hour, but then surfacing and seeing red and black spots then just letting the next wave smash because what the hell, why not, its warm and comfortable and everything is so heavy.
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1. Yep, done it.
2. Yep, done it. Usually coupled with #5.
3. Yep, done it.
4. Yep, done it. But I notably processed that it felt like fur. I can only assume the large mammal was not pleased by my significant kick.
5. Yep, done it. See #2, above. Notably, the 'spots' are bright white/yellow. Dislike immensely.
To add a couple:
6. Thinking all is cool, relaxing for the ride down, and then smacking your head into the bottom and realizing where you are and that you're upside down.
7. Being driven down and not equalizing so that your eardrums feel intense pressure. Have had a pinhole burst once, and totally lost equilibrium. Now I'm happy to bail the board early to dive and try to get under the foam or at least near the end of my leash. Then I hold the leash with one hand to let the pressure drag me (and up if possible). God forbid the leash breaks. It's happened. I'm happier if the board snaps than the leash breaks. Seriously.
I've learned you can be out of energy, out of breath, and stuck in the washing machine of horror, but when you bump into something solid in the dark, and you know it's alive, the adrenaline will propel you to shoot back to the surface with the speed of a torpedo.
Fuck that was a long sentence.
8. Yep, done it. One in particular wasn't a true hogtie, but it was bad. Had the leash wrapped around my right calf when I went down at big Waimea. Felt the pressure underwater, intense pain, and it then blew out a vein in my leg from the pressure. Still have the visible 'varicosity' to prove it.
Was discussing this thread with wifey the other days and she told me 'we' (meaning I) need to get to Mavs again this season. "Why?" I stupidly asked. "Before you get too old.. you know," she said. OUCH. Truth is truth. Couldn't argue.