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Ive seen a couple vids lately that have modern day pros riding older/longer shortboards and the boards just look so good under their feet due to the extra length. Really has me itching to buy a longer DD in the 6’ range.
Because they were longer and flatter than what was to come in the Slater era, those boards worked in a wide range of conditions. Most average guys back then one or two boards and that was it.
For sure. I was around back then. Started surfing in 1988. One board for every wave, big or small, and usually had to make it last for a year or two cause I was broke as a teenager lol. 6’0 or 6’1 was usually my go-to height being I’m 5’10.
I dunno, really good sarfer/shaper, but so is Daniel Thomson and Ryan Burch plus a handful of others.
GD that was fun to watch. Thanks for linking that.
