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Reality check

SixtyGrit

SixtyGrit

Gerry Lopez status
Oct 3, 2015
1,016
1,227
113
SD
I lived at the cliffs for 4 years and consider myself an expert on such waves. Here are my favorites:
1. Von Sol Shadow (OG version), generously-sized
2. SLIGHTLY oversized Stretch Quadfish
3. Album Townsend
4. Stretch Superbuzz
 
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Lakookaracha

Oct 25, 2019
102
134
43
A lot of suggestions here are for boards that are to be ridden shorter than ones height.

Part of my reality check is to see if I’m off base when I think I need a bit more length.

I get most have a wide point forward and that helps elongate the feel, but one of the goals of this board is to catch and get in early to soft rolling take offs, where I feel like length is a huge benefit.
 
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Sharkbiscuit

Duke status
Aug 6, 2003
26,766
19,712
113
Jacksonville Beach
Lakookaracha said:
A lot of suggestions here are for boards that are to be ridden shorter than ones height.

Part of my reality check is to see if I’m off base when I think I need a bit more length.

I get most have a wide point forward and that helps elongate the feel, but one of the goals of this board is to catch and get in early to soft rolling take offs, where I feel like length is a huge benefit.
Click to expand...
You said you didn't like the mid length so that's probably part of it. I am guessing I am not the only person responding with a quiver where the bottom end board is over 9'6" and the next board up is under 6 foot, and the only boards we have longer than height are for the exact opposite of soft rolling surf.

IMHO most people love their groveler in that surf, and even if the mid-length gets in earlier, paddling their groveler a little harder is less of a pain in the ass than duck diving a volumey midlength. I goofed off for an afternoon last week on a rental, an 8'2" mini-mal funboard type thing (disclaimer: I did not get within 80 yards of the main bowl). I could duck dive it but it was kind of a slow process to get it down and leveled off under the wave, and there was basically nothing that board did that my Bean Bag doesn't do 10x better.

Can you get more specific about why the mid-length didn't work for you? If you nixed mid-length and you're not into shorter than height, if you have a shaper who would listen to you and care about this vs just nodding and handing you some jack-of-all-trades/master-of-none funboard, they might concoct some sort of longfish or stretched, but not boaty-railed, egg or whatever and even if they don't solve this odd Rubik's cube first go around, after you give the board a go and say what tradeoffs you are willing to make the second custom should be a real hoot.
 
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SixtyGrit

SixtyGrit

Gerry Lopez status
Oct 3, 2015
1,016
1,227
113
SD
Lakookaracha said:
A lot of suggestions here are for boards that are to be ridden shorter than ones height.

Part of my reality check is to see if I’m off base when I think I need a bit more length.

I get most have a wide point forward and that helps elongate the feel, but one of the goals of this board is to catch and get in early to soft rolling take offs, where I feel like length is a huge benefit.
Click to expand...
Townsend or Moonstone, then. My vote is townsend, having ridden both.

I'm 5'7" 165lb and ride a custom 6'7" townsend I have an asym with a small bump on the heel side in varial that I absolutely love. Tons of drive off the bottom to draw turns out on the shoulder. Great horizontal surfing, but can take it into bigger, albeit less-steep conditions.

Here's my order that yielded my magic board: 1704492808759.png
 
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stringcheese

stringcheese

Miki Dora status
Jun 21, 2017
4,068
3,895
113
Lakookaracha said:
A lot of suggestions here are for boards that are to be ridden shorter than ones height.

Part of my reality check is to see if I’m off base when I think I need a bit more length.

I get most have a wide point forward and that helps elongate the feel, but one of the goals of this board is to catch and get in early to soft rolling take offs, where I feel like length is a huge benefit.
Click to expand...
Smaller mid strength/middy? I’m 5’11,170ish, “very fit” would be fair, but I’m over riding boards shorter than I am. it isn’t as fun to catch fewer waves and struggle when I’m not 100% on my game, so I’m going with a 6’5, 20 3/4, 2 11/16 middy for my next HH+ shortboard.
i remember when it wasn’t unusual for a person’s daily driver to be a few inches taller than they are. You may have gone too big with your last?:shrug:
 
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Lakookaracha

Oct 25, 2019
102
134
43
Felt up a 6’4” in the shop today. This thing had crazy foiled rails.

www.sequoiasurfboards.com

Twin Peaks Sequoia x Aloha - Sequoia Surfboards

“I am completely in love with modern “twin fin” I want to explore the a mid length area, chasing high […]
www.sequoiasurfboards.com www.sequoiasurfboards.com

I was digging how narrow it stayed, the super thinned rails, and the low/flat rocker.

Am I crazy to even consider a board made in Thailand, designed by a nobody, and that has exactly zero feedback/reviews online?
 
flyinraptr

flyinraptr

Michael Peterson status
Dec 18, 2008
2,847
1,535
113
San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua
Here is something to consider ... you're used to surfing a shortboard ... assuming in conditions that suit that type of board and now you're looking for something that will work for you in conditions that are not conducive for a shortboard. No problem ... plenty of boards that fit but the problem is they are not meant to be surfed like a HPSB ... that means changing the way or style in which you surf ... which is not as bad as it sounds as it could be beneficial to your overall surfing skills long term but it takes some adjustment. Mid-lengths and other similar boards require a bit more patience with making turns etc ... slowing things down ... at first jumping from a HPSB it might not seem all that great but given the proper conditions they can be super fun.
 
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Lakookaracha

Oct 25, 2019
102
134
43
flyinraptr said:
Here is something to consider ... you're used to surfing a shortboard ... assuming in conditions that suit that type of board and now you're looking for something that will work for you in conditions that are not conducive for a shortboard. No problem ... plenty of boards that fit but the problem is they are not meant to be surfed like a HPSB ... that means changing the way or style in which you surf ... which is not as bad as it sounds as it could be beneficial to your overall surfing skills long term but it takes some adjustment. Mid-lengths and other similar boards require a bit more patience with making turns etc ... slowing things down ... at first jumping from a HPSB it might not seem all that great but given the proper conditions they can be super fun.
Click to expand...
Great comment. This has been something I’ve thought about. I’m actually open to a bit of a renaissance of my surfing, and learning some new styles/techniques would likely do me well.

And at the very least I’d have something to blame any poor performance on.
 
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stringcheese

stringcheese

Miki Dora status
Jun 21, 2017
4,068
3,895
113
flyinraptr said:
Here is something to consider ... you're used to surfing a shortboard ... assuming in conditions that suit that type of board and now you're looking for something that will work for you in conditions that are not conducive for a shortboard. No problem ... plenty of boards that fit but the problem is they are not meant to be surfed like a HPSB ... that means changing the way or style in which you surf ... which is not as bad as it sounds as it could be beneficial to your overall surfing skills long term but it takes some adjustment. Mid-lengths and other similar boards require a bit more patience with making turns etc ... slowing things down ... at first jumping from a HPSB it might not seem all that great but given the proper conditions they can be super fun.
Click to expand...
They’re different instruments, you should play them differently
 
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S

Sauce

OTF status
Oct 6, 2021
307
448
63
I think a cheeky bastard from stretch would fit the bill perfectly for OP. Then sell it to me.

I had an Album 6'0 insanity/lightbender mash-up that did exactly what you want--- no bump/wing round pin twin. It did exactly your stated purpose but unfortunately I got the board whore disease and sold it. Wish I still had it. Now I've been rationally priced out of albums with XTR's price increase, ughhhhhh
 
J

JTiago

Jan 4, 2019
43
71
18
Lisbon, Portugal
A had a FW Sweet Potato 5'4 some years ago that worked on those conditions. I got surprised a couple of times by the size of the wave, outside the groveller spectrum, but it went amazing.

Maybe an overzided groveller if you want more rail?

Low volume Midlenghts need a proper wave so they don't seem the right choice for fat walls
 
One-Off

One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,265
10,465
113
33.8N - 118.4W
Another mini midlength thread! :applause2:

My best friend (65 years old) just went from 26 liters to 31 and he's stoked he can catch waves and said he is learning how to turn the thing. I tried the 31 liter board and it had a really narrow nose and, for me, was unrideable.

I've been riding a 6-1 which is extremely fun in up to shoulder high. But when it gets overhead I'm dropping out of the sky and feeling a little out of control until after the bottom turn. My next board is a 6-5 but it really doesn't catch waves much better (thinner more foiled). Back to the drawing board....
 
stringcheese

stringcheese

Miki Dora status
Jun 21, 2017
4,068
3,895
113
One-Off said:
I remember when the standard pro shortboard was 6-2 x 18-1/4 x 2-1/8. And everyone and his cousin was trying to ride the same dims.
Click to expand...
If you totally ripped. Me, i liked a nice big friendly 6’3 :LOL: You know, for the extra paddling power
 
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Lakookaracha

Oct 25, 2019
102
134
43
Working with Blake on a custom Shittake HP.

Leaning towards 6’3” x 19.75 x 2.? 34L, keeping rails fairly lean.

Remember this is to be a “soft wave step up”.

Since we all know more than an established shaper, say ye?
 
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