really need to get back. That kind of rush is addictive
Seems like now is the right time, sir.
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really need to get back. That kind of rush is addictive
interesting..Im assuming you were never into skateboarding?Scraped on the reef you’re probably done for the trip. Even if you get back to surfing it’s going to hurt, it’s going to affect your decisions.
The more you laugh the less you focus on the pain right? Those are the best friends to have with you in those situationsChinese red sauce and I are best buds haha.
Yea they are classic, they will patch up while laughing at you. .
These guys and I have traveled a bunch now and are like brothers, absolutely no mercy.
Oh it hurts bad? what you need to do is take some try-actin...
huh?...try-actin??
yea try acting like a man you sissy
Heavily. That’s why I know better. Water is just water. Hold your breath. Reef/concrete will fuck you up. Remember this was a “would you rather…” scenario. I’d rather hold my breath than suffer cuts, contusions, abrasions.interesting..Im assuming you were never into skateboarding?
That’s the thing. You can “change the way your mind works” now, out of the water. Work on your breathing. Once you understand that worst case scenario you are being held under water for 20 seconds you will understand that pretty much anyone can handle it. Keep calm, relax, go with the flow.In the accute, oxygen is more of an immediate need than 100% of my blood and skin is. I’m not saying I want to go across the reef, i’m saying that’s a bummer, while a deep hold down is “change the way your mind works” stuff.
Fortunately for everyone, cloudbreak appears to offer us both.
yea cool, was only trying to say i equate surfing over reef to that of skateboarding - a reef rash is like an everyday thing on a skateboard, some stiches' - inevitable, broken bones, all part of it,etc.. just another day on the board. walk it off if able and then - try again.Heavily. That’s why I know better. Water is just water. Hold your breath. Reef/concrete will fuck you up. Remember this was a “would you rather…” scenario. I’d rather hold my breath than suffer cuts, contusions, abrasions.
A few years back I got back into skating parks. Back in ”The Day” we skated vert ramps. Today’s mostly non-vert parks result in much worse ground impacts.
Was skating the park in ojai, fully padded - helmet, knees, elbows, wrists.
Fell…..
…..on my hip.
Walked with a limp for six months. That retired me from skating parks at the age of 45.
I agree wholeheartedly, but I need to hold off on that sort of trip until the divorce is settled.. attorneys recco.Seems like now is the right time, sir.
Does she know about the erbB? If so you should probably edit out the part about FloridaI agree wholeheartedly, but I need to hold off on that sort of trip until the divorce is settled.. attorneys recco.
Felipe, is that you?Yeah... I have zero interest in going through stuff like that. The enjoyment I get out of surfing has zero to do with facing risks. The moment there's fear involved my enjoyment is sucked out of it. I know, I'm a pussy.
Nope, can't surf small waves either.Felipe, is that you?
1) Swimming for the surface and then bumping the back of my head on the sand....but at least then I was able to panic kick off the bottom.A 2 wave holddown on the other hand which ive had happen to me twice was terrifing, and left me contemplating if I wanted to surf waves like that ever again. For ref - this wasnt mavericks or anything. Just solid beachbreak.
4) Hitting something alive in the dark when you're out of air is unpleasant too.
1. Yep, done it.1) Swimming for the surface and then bumping the back of my head on the sand....but at least then I was able to panic kick off the bottom.
2) That part where you are being shoved sideways (to the surface) through the "more water than air" froth that doesn't displace your mass even when wind-milling your arms and egg-beating your legs in a frenzy so that you end up trying to strain the froth with your teeth to get air (in theory, denser water would be restrained while the air just slips through the spaces between your teeth....in practice, not so much).
3) Toes brushing the bottom but before you can push off the bottom, its "washing machine spin-cycle engaged" time.
4) Hitting something alive in the dark when you're out of air is unpleasant too.
5) Feeling warm and comfortable with not getting to the shore when you were shivering moments before were thinking you can hold out for another hour, but then surfacing and seeing red and black spots then just letting the next wave smash because what the hell, why not, its warm and comfortable and everything is so heavy.
I've learned you can be out of energy, out of breath, and stuck in the washing machine of horror, but when you bump into something solid in the dark, and you know it's alive, the adrenaline will propel you to shoot back to the surface with the speed of a torpedo.4) Hitting something alive in the dark when you're out of air is unpleasant too.
8. Yep, done it. One in particular wasn't a true hogtie, but it was bad. Had the leash wrapped around my right calf when I went down at big Waimea. Felt the pressure underwater, intense pain, and it then blew out a vein in my leg from the pressure. Still have the visible 'varicosity' to prove it.You know you've been thru it when you break the surface and everything has this pink rosy hue to it combined with black swirling spots. The worst is when you get spun and hogtied by your leash then smacked into the bottom. Learning the reverse roll is key to survival.