Entire west coast about to get some action

[Chocki]

I dragged a kid off the rocks there about a 1/2 mile down one New Year day, saved his ass big-time.
His board was broken and he was snagged by the leash on the rocks getting dragged up and down on the surges.
His luck, I had caught a wave all the way through and ended up climbing out down there and was trotting back.

I always wrapped my leash cuff Velcro the exact same way/direction every time so if I ever had to undo it in a hurry it was nbd

I also developed the strategy surfing around rocks in RI to paddle out without my leash on sometimes and take it off before done paddling in sometimes.

 

[r32]

The vids keep coming. This was definitely a December to Remember.

Pelican wipeout at 1:41

 

[StuAzole]

I was talking specifically about Salsipuedes. Not the entire pacific coast. Ever surfed there? Thanks.

I have. I’m guessing most So Cal people on this board have.

Is this where you break out your “back in the good ol days” stuff to show Surfdog he was wrong about the swell direction quip?

Did you surf today?

 

[Duffy LaCoronilla]

'83 Was out of control.
'98 Was bigger, by a lot.
There was one year in the early aughts where it was several feet overhead with good conditions for like a month straight. I got a lot of really good waves that year, surfed 'em well.
I remember SteveT's '06 swell I got Sharks a couple feet OH and just honing.
Last year we had a couple of giant days where (somebody posted a pic here) it was closing out from Rincon to the oil island.

This is a nice swell for sure but this "biggest ever" bullshit is just that.

Winter of either 09/10 or 10/11. Can’t remember which. From November to March it was good to great almost every day. Was surfing Rincon in mid February and people were just saying, “you want it? Go.“

 

[keenfish]

Good direction for “leave if you can”.

This guy reposted the vid of me at "leave if you can" last year and tried to claim it as his own.

Troy Eckert on Instagram: "Friday January 6, 2023 will go down as one of the most important days of my surfing life. Not because of the actual wave I got but because of the symbolism behind it for me. Don’t get me wrong it was one of if not the best rides I’ve ever had in Cali/Baja but it’s because of the personal work I’ve been diligently doing in recent times. I believe this experience was a culmination of the work converging into the exact space and time to be in the spot to catch this wave. On paper many forces were against me. I just turned 50 in late December and most of the guys out there were pros and half my age or less, there 85+ guys out, it was actually pretty slow and everyone was super hungry. Going into the day I made a clear intention to myself to ”let go of any attachment to any outcome and to enjoy the day for what it is”. I feel it was that intention that fueled the entire course of my day leading to catching that wave. As surfers it’s really easy to look at what’s going on as being negative but in reality it’s just “what’s going on” i.e. it’s crowded, it’s slow out here, it’s beautiful, it’s low tide, there’s someone I know etc. in reality it’s the mind that’s causing the suffering not the situation. For one person it’s “heaven” and the other “hell”. The key is to be OK irregardless if you catch a wave or not. For me at this stage in my life I’m doing my best to be very aware to see things “as they are” vs how I “would like them to be”. At the same time I’m human and messy AF. We all are and that’s what makes us so amazing! Doing “the work” for me will go on until the day I check out and it can be really hard at times but man it’s soooo worth it. I feel it’s so important to challenge the way we view the world and to ask ourselves are we adding to the peace or pollution by self turmoil which equates to external turmoil. This wave has allowed me to reconnect with so many old friends and making new ones which is priceless. It’s made me realize (once again) how important community and support is. I will forever cherish this experience and am so grateful to have received such a gift. Surfing is really FN cool #visslastylematters"

2,052 likes, 426 comments - treckert on January 12, 2023: "Friday January 6, 2023 will go down as one of the most important days of my surfing life. Not because of the actual wave I got but becaus...".

www.instagram.com

 

[Duffy LaCoronilla]

 

[ElOgro]

I have. I’m guessing most So Cal people on this board have.

Is this where you break out your “back in the good ol days” stuff to show Surfdog he was wrong about the swell direction quip?

Did you surf today?

Congratulations! I seriously doubt that. Start a poll.

No.

No. No matter how many times you ask that question, the answer won’t change. It remains to be seen how often you surf and where when you reach my age. If you make it that long. That’s an unknown.

 

[StuAzole]

This guy reposted the vid of me at "leave if you can" last year and tried to claim it as his own.

Troy Eckert on Instagram: "Friday January 6, 2023 will go down as one of the most important days of my surfing life. Not because of the actual wave I got but because of the symbolism behind it for me. Don’t get me wrong it was one of if not the best rides I’ve ever had in Cali/Baja but it’s because of the personal work I’ve been diligently doing in recent times. I believe this experience was a culmination of the work converging into the exact space and time to be in the spot to catch this wave. On paper many forces were against me. I just turned 50 in late December and most of the guys out there were pros and half my age or less, there 85+ guys out, it was actually pretty slow and everyone was super hungry. Going into the day I made a clear intention to myself to ”let go of any attachment to any outcome and to enjoy the day for what it is”. I feel it was that intention that fueled the entire course of my day leading to catching that wave. As surfers it’s really easy to look at what’s going on as being negative but in reality it’s just “what’s going on” i.e. it’s crowded, it’s slow out here, it’s beautiful, it’s low tide, there’s someone I know etc. in reality it’s the mind that’s causing the suffering not the situation. For one person it’s “heaven” and the other “hell”. The key is to be OK irregardless if you catch a wave or not. For me at this stage in my life I’m doing my best to be very aware to see things “as they are” vs how I “would like them to be”. At the same time I’m human and messy AF. We all are and that’s what makes us so amazing! Doing “the work” for me will go on until the day I check out and it can be really hard at times but man it’s soooo worth it. I feel it’s so important to challenge the way we view the world and to ask ourselves are we adding to the peace or pollution by self turmoil which equates to external turmoil. This wave has allowed me to reconnect with so many old friends and making new ones which is priceless. It’s made me realize (once again) how important community and support is. I will forever cherish this experience and am so grateful to have received such a gift. Surfing is really FN cool #visslastylematters"

2,052 likes, 426 comments - treckert on January 12, 2023: "Friday January 6, 2023 will go down as one of the most important days of my surfing life. Not because of the actual wave I got but becaus...".

www.instagram.com

Last angle is insane.

And huh? Troy Eckert claimed your wave?

 

[ElOgro]

This guy reposted the vid of me at "leave if you can" last year and tried to claim it as his own.

Troy Eckert on Instagram: "Friday January 6, 2023 will go down as one of the most important days of my surfing life. Not because of the actual wave I got but because of the symbolism behind it for me. Don’t get me wrong it was one of if not the best rides I’ve ever had in Cali/Baja but it’s because of the personal work I’ve been diligently doing in recent times. I believe this experience was a culmination of the work converging into the exact space and time to be in the spot to catch this wave. On paper many forces were against me. I just turned 50 in late December and most of the guys out there were pros and half my age or less, there 85+ guys out, it was actually pretty slow and everyone was super hungry. Going into the day I made a clear intention to myself to ”let go of any attachment to any outcome and to enjoy the day for what it is”. I feel it was that intention that fueled the entire course of my day leading to catching that wave. As surfers it’s really easy to look at what’s going on as being negative but in reality it’s just “what’s going on” i.e. it’s crowded, it’s slow out here, it’s beautiful, it’s low tide, there’s someone I know etc. in reality it’s the mind that’s causing the suffering not the situation. For one person it’s “heaven” and the other “hell”. The key is to be OK irregardless if you catch a wave or not. For me at this stage in my life I’m doing my best to be very aware to see things “as they are” vs how I “would like them to be”. At the same time I’m human and messy AF. We all are and that’s what makes us so amazing! Doing “the work” for me will go on until the day I check out and it can be really hard at times but man it’s soooo worth it. I feel it’s so important to challenge the way we view the world and to ask ourselves are we adding to the peace or pollution by self turmoil which equates to external turmoil. This wave has allowed me to reconnect with so many old friends and making new ones which is priceless. It’s made me realize (once again) how important community and support is. I will forever cherish this experience and am so grateful to have received such a gift. Surfing is really FN cool #visslastylematters"

2,052 likes, 426 comments - treckert on January 12, 2023: "Friday January 6, 2023 will go down as one of the most important days of my surfing life. Not because of the actual wave I got but becaus...".

www.instagram.com

I never surfed there with more than the guys I went with. The road was challenging. Things change.

 

[StuAzole]

Congratulations! I seriously doubt that. Start a poll.

No.

No. No matter how many times you ask that question, the answer won’t change. It remains to be seen how often you surf and where when you reach my age. If you make it that long. That’s an unknown.

What are you, like 80?

Seems like those life choices you keep talking about didn’t really leave you in a great spot, hey?

 

[sh3]

I dragged a kid off the rocks there about a 1/2 mile down one New Year day, saved his ass big-time.
His board was broken and he was snagged by the leash on the rocks getting dragged up and down on the surges.
His luck, I had caught a wave all the way through and ended up climbing out down there and was trotting back.

Back before they re-did the freeway and put a bike lane in and no left exit for La Conchita, I had a wave from the top of indicator to two signs down on the freeway. Climbed up the rocks with my board, walked down to the pit, up the beach, and back out at Indicator. Did it again that day. Had a third one I stopped early and bellied into the spot just past the shack & walked to my car, entirely satisfied with life.

Right now, I dream of surfing. Day 7 of fevers - thank you Influenza A. It's no joke. This is so much worse than Covid ever was.

 

[tenover]

This guy reposted the vid of me at "leave if you can" last year and tried to claim it as his own.

Troy Eckert on Instagram: "Friday January 6, 2023 will go down as one of the most important days of my surfing life. Not because of the actual wave I got but because of the symbolism behind it for me. Don’t get me wrong it was one of if not the best rides I’ve ever had in Cali/Baja but it’s because of the personal work I’ve been diligently doing in recent times. I believe this experience was a culmination of the work converging into the exact space and time to be in the spot to catch this wave. On paper many forces were against me. I just turned 50 in late December and most of the guys out there were pros and half my age or less, there 85+ guys out, it was actually pretty slow and everyone was super hungry. Going into the day I made a clear intention to myself to ”let go of any attachment to any outcome and to enjoy the day for what it is”. I feel it was that intention that fueled the entire course of my day leading to catching that wave. As surfers it’s really easy to look at what’s going on as being negative but in reality it’s just “what’s going on” i.e. it’s crowded, it’s slow out here, it’s beautiful, it’s low tide, there’s someone I know etc. in reality it’s the mind that’s causing the suffering not the situation. For one person it’s “heaven” and the other “hell”. The key is to be OK irregardless if you catch a wave or not. For me at this stage in my life I’m doing my best to be very aware to see things “as they are” vs how I “would like them to be”. At the same time I’m human and messy AF. We all are and that’s what makes us so amazing! Doing “the work” for me will go on until the day I check out and it can be really hard at times but man it’s soooo worth it. I feel it’s so important to challenge the way we view the world and to ask ourselves are we adding to the peace or pollution by self turmoil which equates to external turmoil. This wave has allowed me to reconnect with so many old friends and making new ones which is priceless. It’s made me realize (once again) how important community and support is. I will forever cherish this experience and am so grateful to have received such a gift. Surfing is really FN cool #visslastylematters"

2,052 likes, 426 comments - treckert on January 12, 2023: "Friday January 6, 2023 will go down as one of the most important days of my surfing life. Not because of the actual wave I got but becaus...".

www.instagram.com

That's you surfing? That's awesome..... What a great wave to have recorded!

 

[keenfish]

That's you surfing? That's awesome..... What a great wave to have recorded!

I cannot tell a lie. Yes. That was a wave of a lifetime!

Well, if only it was me then it still would have been a wave of a lifetime.

 

[oneworlded]

I had a quick back-and-forth with Mike Parsons today. And asked him if anybody he knew of went out to Cortes bank. He said he had not heard of anyone going, but yesterday might’ve been the best day there ever. If a tree falls in the forest!

 

[ElOgro]

What are you, like 80?

Seems like those life choices you keep talking about didn’t really leave you in a great spot, hey?

68.

This is truly a great spot. No debt to anyone, 2 1/2 acres for the kids, grandkids, and dogs to run around. Surf a short walk away. Been like that since before I was younger than your age. You’ll never experience the same no matter how much money you have.

 

[Duffy LaCoronilla]

Back before they re-did the freeway and put a bike lane in and no left exit for La Conchita, I had a wave from the top of indicator to two signs down on the freeway. Climbed up the rocks with my board, walked down to the pit, up the beach, and back out at Indicator. Did it again that day. Had a third one I stopped early and bellied into the spot just past the shack & walked to my car, entirely satisfied with life.

Right now, I dream of surfing. Day 7 of fevers - thank you Influenza A. It's no joke. This is so much worse than Covid ever was.

The flu fucks me up bad. Been hospitalized twice from flu.

drink lots of liquids….

 

[silentbutdeadly]

another swell, another dick measuring contest

 

[r32]

 

[StuAzole]

68.
View attachment 169542
This is truly a great spot. No debt to anyone, 2 1/2 acres for the kids, grandkids, and dogs to run around. Surf a short walk away. Been like that since before I was younger than your age. You’ll never experience the same no matter how much money you have.

68 but too decrepit to surf? Plenty of time to sit on the purple patio. Well done.

 

[r32]

Are you not entertained?!

That inside section is deadly on super big days.