My day went like this…
”Um, excuse me. You don’t want to stand there.”
”Um, excuse me. You’re kid is going to drown if you let him wander around on the beach.”
“Um, excuse me. This isn’t a good time for a beach walk.”
5 minutes later two soaking wet tourists come back up the stairs.
”Should have listened to me.”
Then I finally go surf. Get denied three times trying to paddle out. Get out the back on the fourth attempt. Two other guys out, one I know. They both tell me they haven’t caught a single wave. spend an hour cat and mousing the lineup. Taking sets on the head. Missing waves. Turn and go on bomb and get absolutely obliterated.
Got back out. Thought I was far enough out. So did the other two guys. We weren’t. Big set. we all bail boards. First wave put us right in the spot for the second, meaner wave to do its work. I pop up. Next to me my buddy’s board is tomb stoning and buckled. the other guy is now swimming boardless and in some distress. buddy goes in and I escort the other guy in.
Sketchy as fuck.
I‘m exhausted.
”Um, excuse me. You don’t want to stand there.”
”Um, excuse me. You’re kid is going to drown if you let him wander around on the beach.”
“Um, excuse me. This isn’t a good time for a beach walk.”
5 minutes later two soaking wet tourists come back up the stairs.
”Should have listened to me.”
Then I finally go surf. Get denied three times trying to paddle out. Get out the back on the fourth attempt. Two other guys out, one I know. They both tell me they haven’t caught a single wave. spend an hour cat and mousing the lineup. Taking sets on the head. Missing waves. Turn and go on bomb and get absolutely obliterated.
Got back out. Thought I was far enough out. So did the other two guys. We weren’t. Big set. we all bail boards. First wave put us right in the spot for the second, meaner wave to do its work. I pop up. Next to me my buddy’s board is tomb stoning and buckled. the other guy is now swimming boardless and in some distress. buddy goes in and I escort the other guy in.
Sketchy as fuck.
I‘m exhausted.