I've surfed 2-6 days a week since I was five years old. I am now closer to 70 than I am to 60. Most of the time I'm riding a 6'-6'2". I surfed well going into my 50's. Still have good days by mid 80's standards. But I make mistakes now that I never did previously. Primarily on takeoff. I've talked with a number of my childhood surf heroes and everyone says the same thing. Coming to your feet, the first thing you learned, is the first thing that goes. Which is humiliating. On a little board, hitting your spot and nailing that first turn is everything. Or a lot anyway.
My MA training is good for surfing. My reasons for still training have nothing to do with fighting anymore. Reflexes, balance and flexibility in one package. My tip for the popup is get yourself an WaveStorm. Cut it off to the length of your favorite shortboard and take the fins off. Throw the thing on the garage floor and pop up. 20 times. If you can nail 20, everything is working. The fatigue on rep 19 makes it more difficult. If you are screwing up your foot placement, stop. Quality reps. Put good stuff into muscle memory. Not sloppy. That and I got a paddle board. I only go at most about five miles. Sometimes less.
Waves of serious consequence are kind of off the menu now. I make mistakes I am not willing to pay for. That stings a little. But, got to be grateful for the run that you had.
Like I said, it's humiliating to have to work on things you did most of your life without effort/thought. But, a little humility is good for us. I'm not surfing much lately. My life has gotten messy with my father's death. I'm hoping to get things done and organized so I can go get the last few years I can squeeze out. My father rode his last wave in his 80's. But whatever. I've had a really good run. Over 60 years of surfing. It can all end tomorrow and I wouldn't regret a thing. I really need to kill my ego going forward. I've tried, but the MF'er won't die. Time will tell...