Region Mentawaii islands sanding island to playground.
me 5’11 x 175lb 47 year old kook with occasional moments of glory
wave heights are seppo scale.
Boards ridden
Black Beauty
Dims 6’3 x 18 3/4 x 2 1/2 30.1 liters
fins JJF futures large
leash string black Channel Islands
tail pad Channel Islands lined up flat 2.5mm
Tomo Hydronaut
Dims 6'1 x 19 1/4 x 2 9/16 31 liters
Fins AM2 Futures
leash string blue custom
tail pad blue arched with 2 mm kick
Tomo V4
Dims 5'10 x 18 x 2 3/8 28 liters
Leash string custom black
Fins AM1 FCS
Tail pad Black creatures
pyzel ghost, Ci Happy, Hypto Krypto and Simon shapes twin also in the mix.
Session 1 HTs right
Conditions: 4-6 with occasional 8' bombs
Board: Black Beauty
Crowd: 8-12 people
two take off spots this session. Insiders with a nice wall and barreling rights on offer.
Was my first session on the board and I was thinking it was too small.
had one really good wide one buddy made me go on.
kind of a hairball way to test a new board but it was money, also took my welcome to indonesia reef tour poundings
Session 2 Lances Left
Conditions: 4-6' and working well
Board: Tomo Hydronaut
Crowd: 15-20 people but spread out
Love this wave but love it even more with no people! bigger crowd this time. Only got a handful of waves but they were all long quality lefts.
One head dip but not counting it .
Session 3,4,5 Thunders Left
Conditions :4-6;, 4-8, 8-12'
Boards: Hydronaut and BB
Crowd: pack of frothers. Lots of hungry rippers. 11boats at the spot at one point!!!!!
spent a lot of time here riding various boards but one session on the BB stood out. It was the biggest day.
fucking crazy (for me) giant lefts coming in and hammering down with a crash. Got called into an absolute bomb , made the drop and got annihilated.
After that sat inside a little bit licking my wounds. drifted back to the lineup and got 4 nugs. I normally struggle coming off the top backhand and was having trouble on my Tomos in other sessions here.
The BB carried so much speed I felt like I had a cheat code. I was drawing better lines and carrying speed
lots of turns that felt good when normally I just flail like a spider monkey hopped up on mountain dew when going left.
Hopefully no pics to show me how horrible it actually looked...
Seesion 6 Unnamed left
Conditions : 2-4' easy and fun
Board: 5'10 Tomo V4
Crowd: Just me and 3 buddies
Snuck off to a "b" grade spot and scored.
Outside peak was a fun drop to a nice section you can hit
Inside it ran along a flat reef and you could do multiple turns.
fun fun fun fun
We feasted on fish in between these sessions. my buddy caught some GT and Dogtooth tuna. Sashimi was bomb.
Drank a ton of Bintangs as well. Banana bag in the morning, 4 bintangs post session.
Headed south to try and escape some of the crowds.
Session 7 Unnamed left
Conditions : 4-6' top to bottom rippable lefts
Board: 6'3 BB
Crowd: Just our boat 4-8 people
things really clicked here, unfortunately on a wave I burned my good buddy on. It was my turn though
‘This wave was a super rippable left with barrels and sections for turns.
Big bottom turns to weak top turn combos! Old guy heaven a picture perfect super fun left.
Did end up losing my surf hat on a bigger one I got pinched on. that sucked!
Session 8 The hole
Conditions : 4-6' lefts on dry reef
Board: 6'3 BB
Crowd: The CI crew on their boat and our boat. 6 people out
Not quite doing it and ending on dry reef. This spot was above my skill level.
Watched a crazy bodyboarder dry dock on the reef in a barrel. That was insane to watch!
Session 9 Lighthouse rights
Conditions : 8-15' Big powerful open water feeling rights. ledgy and ready to beat down
Board:6'1 tomo nd then
Crowd: Just me and my buddy
Rode the hydronaut here. paddled our in a rain squall. It looked much much smaller from the boat.
get out and it’s way way bigger than we thought. Friend catches a wave and disappears.
lineup alone giant waves appearing out of nowhere , knew I had to catch one so just sent it.
made the drop and ate sh!t.even bigger set on the horizon. I barely got under it.
friend paddles back out later and tells me he almost drowned. Two wave hold down.
waved tender and switched to the BB
caught a few more and it felt better but it was a bit hairball for me out there.
two more friends paddled out and I went back to the boat.
We headed to sanding island next. I caught some crazy boat plague and was down for an entire day.
Puking and pooping and chills. No bueno.
missed both sessions here. Heard they were good though and no crowd.
Session 10 Roxies
Conditions : 4-6' rippable rights some barrel sections
Board: 6'3 BB
Crowd: Just our boat and the local kids
I have a special connection with this wave, its a softer spot we scored last trip for two days.
Sets always come to me here and I have the best time with the locals here. They just love surfing.
Black Beauty did it all.
Barrels off the take off to nice big turns, super gliding cutbacks, making sections.
Ripper buddies told me it’s the best they have ever seen me surf.
When I hear these guys say “that board is really working for you“ I know I have a keeper
Hung with local kids and absolutely styled them out with gear,food and of course soda and juice boxes!
Session 11 Macaronis
Conditions : 4-8' lefts great but not A+ maccas
Board: 6'3 BB
Crowd: 12-25 people including a blonde frenchie sponsored ripper hottie
I struggle bus at maccas a bit. We were the first boat in the water but I couldnt find many nugs.
CAught a few that would be wave of the year in CA so I shouldnt complain.
French ripper gals in a G string are welcome additions to any lineup.
Session 12 Ariks Right
Conditions : 3-6' fast right handers.
Board: 6'3 BB
Crowd: 3 of us and 3 people from land
run and gun baby! Get up and fucking go rights over shallow shallow reef. Probably the healthiest most alive coral I saw.
would not have surfed day 1 of the trip and wore the gath.
turned out the larger ones were the call and you could get shacked and turn
smaller ones were a speed run to eject
had a few nicks but managed to not slice myself to ribbons the speed of the BB was Magic here
Session 13 Ombak Tidur
Conditions : 4-10? 12?
Board: 6'3 BB
Crowd: 4 of us and one lcoal gal paddling. 2 local dudes with a ski.
We paddled out here at sunset and watched a guy do a step off and get barreled on what appeared to be a solid 12' face wave.
Took a minute but I got a nug , fast racy wall that reminded me of a CA point break on steroids.I then got absolutely hammered by a set. The current pulled you up the reef into the impact zone.
Jetski gave my friend on the way inside a ride out of danger after he got the same treatment on a much bigger set, thought that was cool of them.
struggle bussed a bit here as I was tired and rather buzzed
Session 14 Telescopes
Conditions : 4-6' occasional bigger sets
Board: 6'3 BB
Crowd 10-18 people. The CI boat was here and a land camp boat from Pagai.
left perfection. Board worked well. Hot Swiss chics in the lineup.
spent some time here surfing a few diff boards. BB again was the winner.
at this point on the trip I am not even looking at other boards.
Session 15 Bank vaults
Conditions : 6-8' barreling rights thick and mean
Board: 6'3 BB
Crowd: 15 or so but it was a good crowd. Taking turns and a couple of take spots
heavy revs this day.
in 2 mins I watched one friend get the wave of his life and another destroy his leg. Broken!
One friend dragged all over underwater and sent back to boat.
‘I was able to pick off 2 good ones and called it a session.
It my first introduction to the wave and it’s power and the BB once again gave me the confidence I needed.
This wave has a well earned reputation.
Session 16 Nipussi
Conditions : 4-6' fast hi performance rights occasional bigger set
Board: 6'3 BB
Crowd: 20 people some assholes and some cool peeps
.
so rippable. Perfect walls for carving with the BB. I was on complete tear this session.
may be the best I have surfed in my life.
Got a lot of sets just by luck and a few people pulling back.
Best wave was one of the larger sets. drop in right in the pocket standup indo shower/cheater barrel and then two big old man carves
session was soured by a Brazil drop in. I had words and a few waves later his buddy ran me over. Guy totally aimed for me and took me out.
I am over it now but it was heavy at the time. My buddies were ready to kill him, I think he wanted to wrestle me haha.
The other brazilian crew was super fun to surf with. One guy pulled back on a set and gave me the next 3. I egged him into going on one and he was so stoked. super cool dude and his friends were fun to surf with as well. Not all brazzos suck!
Session 17 Burger world
Conditions : 3-6' rights for the good ones along the island. 4-8' for the wide burgers that cleaned people up
Board: 6'3 BB
Crowd: maybe 30 people , 4 big boats and a few landcamp smaller ones
Big burger world almost too much for the spot. Lots of duck diving wide ones
too crowded and sore but got a couple fun ones.
best wave was right against the island. Drop in barrel . Two top turns I generated a ton of speed from and then a botched 3rd cause I am an old kook!
Session 19 Pit stops
Conditions : 3-6' playful fun perfect waves
Board: 6'3 BB
Crowd: 2 boats and super good vibes. Everyone sharing. Also an absolute hottie out which always makes things better
fuck such a fun wave. Reminded me of a lot of Ca spots on their best days,
non Critical barrels and easy speed runs. Friend burned me and I blew past him. He ended up destroying his shirt on the reef but was fine.
3 of the guys took pics of this session, cant wait to see those.
This is a new favorite "easy" indo wave
We surfed a few more spots in the playgrounds area and headed home.
Super lucky to have 8 other friends committed to a trip every other year.
I cannot recommend Indonesia enough. just fucking go.
me 5’11 x 175lb 47 year old kook with occasional moments of glory
wave heights are seppo scale.
Boards ridden
Black Beauty
Dims 6’3 x 18 3/4 x 2 1/2 30.1 liters
fins JJF futures large
leash string black Channel Islands
tail pad Channel Islands lined up flat 2.5mm
Tomo Hydronaut
Dims 6'1 x 19 1/4 x 2 9/16 31 liters
Fins AM2 Futures
leash string blue custom
tail pad blue arched with 2 mm kick
Tomo V4
Dims 5'10 x 18 x 2 3/8 28 liters
Leash string custom black
Fins AM1 FCS
Tail pad Black creatures
pyzel ghost, Ci Happy, Hypto Krypto and Simon shapes twin also in the mix.
Session 1 HTs right
Conditions: 4-6 with occasional 8' bombs
Board: Black Beauty
Crowd: 8-12 people
two take off spots this session. Insiders with a nice wall and barreling rights on offer.
Was my first session on the board and I was thinking it was too small.
had one really good wide one buddy made me go on.
kind of a hairball way to test a new board but it was money, also took my welcome to indonesia reef tour poundings
Session 2 Lances Left
Conditions: 4-6' and working well
Board: Tomo Hydronaut
Crowd: 15-20 people but spread out
Love this wave but love it even more with no people! bigger crowd this time. Only got a handful of waves but they were all long quality lefts.
One head dip but not counting it .
Session 3,4,5 Thunders Left
Conditions :4-6;, 4-8, 8-12'
Boards: Hydronaut and BB
Crowd: pack of frothers. Lots of hungry rippers. 11boats at the spot at one point!!!!!
spent a lot of time here riding various boards but one session on the BB stood out. It was the biggest day.
fucking crazy (for me) giant lefts coming in and hammering down with a crash. Got called into an absolute bomb , made the drop and got annihilated.
After that sat inside a little bit licking my wounds. drifted back to the lineup and got 4 nugs. I normally struggle coming off the top backhand and was having trouble on my Tomos in other sessions here.
The BB carried so much speed I felt like I had a cheat code. I was drawing better lines and carrying speed
lots of turns that felt good when normally I just flail like a spider monkey hopped up on mountain dew when going left.
Hopefully no pics to show me how horrible it actually looked...
Seesion 6 Unnamed left
Conditions : 2-4' easy and fun
Board: 5'10 Tomo V4
Crowd: Just me and 3 buddies
Snuck off to a "b" grade spot and scored.
Outside peak was a fun drop to a nice section you can hit
Inside it ran along a flat reef and you could do multiple turns.
fun fun fun fun
We feasted on fish in between these sessions. my buddy caught some GT and Dogtooth tuna. Sashimi was bomb.
Drank a ton of Bintangs as well. Banana bag in the morning, 4 bintangs post session.
Headed south to try and escape some of the crowds.
Session 7 Unnamed left
Conditions : 4-6' top to bottom rippable lefts
Board: 6'3 BB
Crowd: Just our boat 4-8 people
things really clicked here, unfortunately on a wave I burned my good buddy on. It was my turn though
‘This wave was a super rippable left with barrels and sections for turns.
Big bottom turns to weak top turn combos! Old guy heaven a picture perfect super fun left.
Did end up losing my surf hat on a bigger one I got pinched on. that sucked!
Session 8 The hole
Conditions : 4-6' lefts on dry reef
Board: 6'3 BB
Crowd: The CI crew on their boat and our boat. 6 people out
Not quite doing it and ending on dry reef. This spot was above my skill level.
Watched a crazy bodyboarder dry dock on the reef in a barrel. That was insane to watch!
Session 9 Lighthouse rights
Conditions : 8-15' Big powerful open water feeling rights. ledgy and ready to beat down
Board:6'1 tomo nd then
Crowd: Just me and my buddy
Rode the hydronaut here. paddled our in a rain squall. It looked much much smaller from the boat.
get out and it’s way way bigger than we thought. Friend catches a wave and disappears.
lineup alone giant waves appearing out of nowhere , knew I had to catch one so just sent it.
made the drop and ate sh!t.even bigger set on the horizon. I barely got under it.
friend paddles back out later and tells me he almost drowned. Two wave hold down.
waved tender and switched to the BB
caught a few more and it felt better but it was a bit hairball for me out there.
two more friends paddled out and I went back to the boat.
We headed to sanding island next. I caught some crazy boat plague and was down for an entire day.
Puking and pooping and chills. No bueno.
missed both sessions here. Heard they were good though and no crowd.
Session 10 Roxies
Conditions : 4-6' rippable rights some barrel sections
Board: 6'3 BB
Crowd: Just our boat and the local kids
I have a special connection with this wave, its a softer spot we scored last trip for two days.
Sets always come to me here and I have the best time with the locals here. They just love surfing.
Black Beauty did it all.
Barrels off the take off to nice big turns, super gliding cutbacks, making sections.
Ripper buddies told me it’s the best they have ever seen me surf.
When I hear these guys say “that board is really working for you“ I know I have a keeper
Hung with local kids and absolutely styled them out with gear,food and of course soda and juice boxes!
Session 11 Macaronis
Conditions : 4-8' lefts great but not A+ maccas
Board: 6'3 BB
Crowd: 12-25 people including a blonde frenchie sponsored ripper hottie
I struggle bus at maccas a bit. We were the first boat in the water but I couldnt find many nugs.
CAught a few that would be wave of the year in CA so I shouldnt complain.
French ripper gals in a G string are welcome additions to any lineup.
Session 12 Ariks Right
Conditions : 3-6' fast right handers.
Board: 6'3 BB
Crowd: 3 of us and 3 people from land
run and gun baby! Get up and fucking go rights over shallow shallow reef. Probably the healthiest most alive coral I saw.
would not have surfed day 1 of the trip and wore the gath.
turned out the larger ones were the call and you could get shacked and turn
smaller ones were a speed run to eject
had a few nicks but managed to not slice myself to ribbons the speed of the BB was Magic here
Session 13 Ombak Tidur
Conditions : 4-10? 12?
Board: 6'3 BB
Crowd: 4 of us and one lcoal gal paddling. 2 local dudes with a ski.
We paddled out here at sunset and watched a guy do a step off and get barreled on what appeared to be a solid 12' face wave.
Took a minute but I got a nug , fast racy wall that reminded me of a CA point break on steroids.I then got absolutely hammered by a set. The current pulled you up the reef into the impact zone.
Jetski gave my friend on the way inside a ride out of danger after he got the same treatment on a much bigger set, thought that was cool of them.
struggle bussed a bit here as I was tired and rather buzzed
Session 14 Telescopes
Conditions : 4-6' occasional bigger sets
Board: 6'3 BB
Crowd 10-18 people. The CI boat was here and a land camp boat from Pagai.
left perfection. Board worked well. Hot Swiss chics in the lineup.
spent some time here surfing a few diff boards. BB again was the winner.
at this point on the trip I am not even looking at other boards.
Session 15 Bank vaults
Conditions : 6-8' barreling rights thick and mean
Board: 6'3 BB
Crowd: 15 or so but it was a good crowd. Taking turns and a couple of take spots
heavy revs this day.
in 2 mins I watched one friend get the wave of his life and another destroy his leg. Broken!
One friend dragged all over underwater and sent back to boat.
‘I was able to pick off 2 good ones and called it a session.
It my first introduction to the wave and it’s power and the BB once again gave me the confidence I needed.
This wave has a well earned reputation.
Session 16 Nipussi
Conditions : 4-6' fast hi performance rights occasional bigger set
Board: 6'3 BB
Crowd: 20 people some assholes and some cool peeps
.
so rippable. Perfect walls for carving with the BB. I was on complete tear this session.
may be the best I have surfed in my life.
Got a lot of sets just by luck and a few people pulling back.
Best wave was one of the larger sets. drop in right in the pocket standup indo shower/cheater barrel and then two big old man carves
session was soured by a Brazil drop in. I had words and a few waves later his buddy ran me over. Guy totally aimed for me and took me out.
I am over it now but it was heavy at the time. My buddies were ready to kill him, I think he wanted to wrestle me haha.
The other brazilian crew was super fun to surf with. One guy pulled back on a set and gave me the next 3. I egged him into going on one and he was so stoked. super cool dude and his friends were fun to surf with as well. Not all brazzos suck!
Session 17 Burger world
Conditions : 3-6' rights for the good ones along the island. 4-8' for the wide burgers that cleaned people up
Board: 6'3 BB
Crowd: maybe 30 people , 4 big boats and a few landcamp smaller ones
Big burger world almost too much for the spot. Lots of duck diving wide ones
too crowded and sore but got a couple fun ones.
best wave was right against the island. Drop in barrel . Two top turns I generated a ton of speed from and then a botched 3rd cause I am an old kook!
Session 19 Pit stops
Conditions : 3-6' playful fun perfect waves
Board: 6'3 BB
Crowd: 2 boats and super good vibes. Everyone sharing. Also an absolute hottie out which always makes things better
fuck such a fun wave. Reminded me of a lot of Ca spots on their best days,
non Critical barrels and easy speed runs. Friend burned me and I blew past him. He ended up destroying his shirt on the reef but was fine.
3 of the guys took pics of this session, cant wait to see those.
This is a new favorite "easy" indo wave
We surfed a few more spots in the playgrounds area and headed home.
Super lucky to have 8 other friends committed to a trip every other year.
I cannot recommend Indonesia enough. just fucking go.
