for Front footed Surfers

Feb 3, 2015
87
21
8
LA County
I'm front footed as well. Ive been playing musical boards for the past 25 years like most of us. The past 5-6 years Ive always had a lost SS2 double wing swallow as my go to. I prefer it as a quad, being tall and lanky plus front footed, I feel like quad set ups are mandatory. If youre looking at Roberts boards, the original Punter was a favorite of mine.
 

Dekerwild

OTF status
Jul 28, 2017
340
351
63
My front foot tends to lead me down the line pumping, driving the board like a tic-tac while skateboarding, is probably the best way to describe what I’m saying or asking....
 

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
9,710
2,357
113
Oceanside, CA
casa_mugrienta said:
I'd love to know how a person turns a board off their front foot.
They don't. They/I/we drive more dominantly off of our front foot when pumping and driving
down the line, then shift weight back (although maybe not as dominantly as a "rear-foot driver")
when cranking turns. IMO
 

Bman76

Nep status
Mar 10, 2011
936
743
93
Oceanslide said:
casa_mugrienta said:
I'd love to know how a person turns a board off their front foot.
They don't. They/I/we drive more dominantly off of our front foot when pumping and driving
down the line, then shift weight back (although maybe not as dominantly as a "rear-foot driver")
when cranking turns. IMO
This.
 

casa_mugrienta

Duke status
Apr 13, 2008
43,876
18,456
113
Petak Island
Oceanslide said:
casa_mugrienta said:
I'd love to know how a person turns a board off their front foot.
They don't. They/I/we drive more dominantly off of our front foot when pumping and driving
down the line, then shift weight back (although maybe not as dominantly as a "rear-foot driver")
when cranking turns. IMO
In that case how does a person drive (I'm assuming you're talking about gaining speed) on a surfboard off their rear foot?
 

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
9,710
2,357
113
Oceanside, CA
casa_mugrienta said:
Oceanslide said:
casa_mugrienta said:
I'd love to know how a person turns a board off their front foot.
They don't. They/I/we drive more dominantly off of our front foot when pumping and driving
down the line, then shift weight back (although maybe not as dominantly as a "rear-foot driver")
when cranking turns. IMO
In that case how does a person drive (I'm assuming you're talking about gaining speed) on a surfboard off their rear foot?
Using their fins and tail more than their rail to generate speed. IMO
 
  • Like
Reactions: Havoc

casa_mugrienta

Duke status
Apr 13, 2008
43,876
18,456
113
Petak Island
I don't get this logic. Everyone is both footed. Where you get your speed is going to be highly dependent on the type of wave and what the wave is doing at that moment. Period. There's no other way around it.
 

bird.LA

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Jul 14, 2002
8,138
1,832
113
LA
casa_mugrienta said:
I don't get this logic. Everyone is both footed. Where you get your speed is going to be highly dependent on the type of wave and what the wave is doing at that moment. Period. There's no other way around it.
You sound like a front footer.
 
  • Haha
Reactions: Havoc

SlicedFeet

Miki Dora status
Dec 17, 2004
4,756
992
113
Swarm Diego
ChaseTMP said:
What's a SWS from Lost? I'm running into the same issue trying to find a new board that works with driving off my front foot. I've recently lost money on buying two new OTR boards: Chilli Churro roundtail twin tech and a JS Air 17X Hyfi. Both boards were complete dogs for me. I was considering a Haydenshapes Holy Grail, since their Psychedelic Germ was one of my favorite boards in the last 10 years. Luckily, Haydenshapes is partnered with Awayco and I rented one (a 5'8 PE) the past three days. The Holy Grail IMO, did not have any get-up-and-go in the quick mostly crummy beach break out front of my place I surf everyday. I'm glad I'm only out $55 for the rental and didn't get taken to the cleaners trying getting rid of a new board.

I'm not going to relearn how to drive down the line after 35+ years of surfing. I'm embarrassed that I haven't really figured out what to actually look for. Looking at my boards yesterday that work (a scan off of of one of Medina's boards) or kinda worked (Chilli Nevada non-HP), it appears that I like a flat section of rocker under my front foot (36-37" up from the tail), forward wide point and some moderate single concave in that same area.

I was surfing so bad on the Churro and Air17X that some acquaintances in the water were commenting that something looked really off. I know I can surf decent (made it through heats in the NSSA Open Men's back in 96-98, had some major brand hook-ups) on the right board. I'm just getting super frustrated that I can't demo a bunch of boards and have to worry about selling for a loss again.

I'm going to molest some boards at E.T. Surf this afternoon and will check out the V3 Rocket, Quiver Killer (would the Psycho Killer be good as well?), SS2, whatever the SWS is and maybe a CI Sampler (never loved CI's full feeling rails though). Any others to feel up? E.T. carries: Lost, Firewire/Slater/Tomo, JS, CI, Chilli, Rusty, Haydenshapes.
I think you may be surfing boards that are too short for being a front footed surfer. You need more rail length to drive and generate speed because the fin cluster is being disengaged a bit. You’d probably like a board that is your height or 2”shorter than you but with the volume you are accustomed too. Then you’d have more rail, and flatter rocker to drive.

The problem is today’s boards that are that size, the volume would be way out of wack for you and probably too wide.

I think you need to go back to customs.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Havoc
Aug 22, 2008
40
14
8
Everyone is both footed but certain ppl tend to put too much weight on their front foot at times and also not get back far enough on their turns. I've been one of those at several points in my life. For example I find that if I get stuck just behind a section mid bottom turn my mind wants to pressure the front foot like I wld if I was up on the face. (Front side problem only) If I do this I tend to bog hard -- gotta drive off the fin cluster there. Similarly there are times when I standup, my stance is kind of narrow (happens if I get in early but dont pause for a split second before standing) and then I bottom turn and go to do a cut back and have to really nurse it bc I can feel the front rail catching a bit. In terms of what board works...

Ive loved alot of boards that are front foot friendly per this thread (lost sub scorcher and RNF) but also others that I think are not. (Chili CN curve, JS combat model... 2 boards I LOVED back in the day) Interestingly I also never really liked Roberts White Diamond which apparently is a front foot friendly board. Having digested this thread I wonder if I wld like my stamps Grinder X with a slight V compared to flat which is what I think it has. (I like that board alot, super fast, but I tend to love v in tail, feels more stable on rail to me and I wonder if I wld like it more if it kind of sat down a bit more in the tail)
 

ChaseTMP

Michael Peterson status
Apr 6, 2014
1,802
3,253
113
S. Redondo
I was able to get the answer on the OG Flyer being front foot friendly; apparently not for me. A manager at my local shop (E.T. Surf, thanks Daniel!) lent me his Spinetek 5'10 OG Flyer.

I know within three waves if a board is worth more time (changing fins etc.) and the Flyer was feeling similar to the other three boards I've recently had issues with.

As front footed, I'll echo other's statements in that I'm only talking about driving/generating speed. Of course turning off your front (weight on your front) foot won't work.

Dane Reynolds is probably the highest profile surfer that generates speed this way, when he has to create speed quickly on his forehand and the wave is not doing that much work.

For me, I can make most boards work backside, since it's inherent to have your weight more evenly distributed (more toward the tail), since you're not going to drive off your heel. Where the issue resides for me is frontside and needing to get up to speed quickly in short beachbreak waves, most of my weight is on my front toes/ball of my foot. I readjust my weight to by back foot to bottom turn or to hit the lip/oncoming section.

So yes, everyone is both footed, but there is a select few of us that generate speed on our forehands differently than most. It's more of an issue to find the right board, but I'm usually one of the faster surfers in the water at my local beach and it could be attributed to my front-footedness.

I'm not sure that length plays to much a part of what I like in a board. One of my favorite boards was a 5'7 Haydenshapes Psychedelic Germ and I'm 6'0 175 lbs.

One of my good friends, Matt Calvani (Becker, now Bing) has made me around 60 boards and there was only a couple that didn't work for me over 20 years. With Bing, he definitely is more in the retro camp and that's why I've started getting boards OTR as I'm still trying to keep up with the groms even though I'm almost 47. I think since Matt and I used to surf together a lot (before he relocated to Leucadia/Encinitas) he had a good feel for what worked for me. I'm finally getting around to Matt making me a board, a pin tail twin based on Josh Kerr's winning board from the Maldives contest.

I've been buying boards OTR for a few years now and this is only a recent phenomenon for me getting boards that I can't get down the line quickly on my forehand. I grabbed a Haydenshapes Untitled (Awayco) today that someone mentioned worked well for them. Unfortunately the only Sub Scorcher II at E.T. was a little too beefy for me. That's still on my must try list.

The search continues FMW (wallet)...
 

Havoc

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
May 23, 2016
7,855
12,563
113
in da hood next to paradise
ChaseTMP said:
I was able to get the answer on the OG Flyer being front foot friendly; apparently not for me. A manager at my local shop (E.T. Surf, thanks Daniel!) lent me his Spinetek 5'10 OG Flyer.

I know within three waves if a board is worth more time (changing fins etc.) and the Flyer was feeling similar to the other three boards I've recently had issues with.

As front footed, I'll echo other's statements in that I'm only talking about driving/generating speed. Of course turning off your front (weight on your front) foot won't work.

Dane Reynolds is probably the highest profile surfer that generates speed this way, when he has to create speed quickly on his forehand and the wave is not doing that much work.

For me, I can make most boards work backside, since it's inherent to have your weight more evenly distributed (more toward the tail), since you're not going to drive off your heel. Where the issue resides for me is frontside and needing to get up to speed quickly in short beachbreak waves, most of my weight is on my front toes/ball of my foot. I readjust my weight to by back foot to bottom turn or to hit the lip/oncoming section.

So yes, everyone is both footed, but there is a select few of us that generate speed on our forehands differently than most. It's more of an issue to find the right board, but I'm usually one of the faster surfers in the water at my local beach and it could be attributed to my front-footedness.

I'm not sure that length plays to much a part of what I like in a board. One of my favorite boards was a 5'7 Haydenshapes Psychedelic Germ and I'm 6'0 175 lbs.

One of my good friends, Matt Calvani (Becker, now Bing) has made me around 60 boards and there was only a couple that didn't work for me over 20 years. With Bing, he definitely is more in the retro camp and that's why I've started getting boards OTR as I'm still trying to keep up with the groms even though I'm almost 47. I think since Matt and I used to surf together a lot (before he relocated to Leucadia/Encinitas) he had a good feel for what worked for me. I'm finally getting around to Matt making me a board, a pin tail twin based on Josh Kerr's winning board from the Maldives contest.

I've been buying boards OTR for a few years now and this is only a recent phenomenon for me getting boards that I can't get down the line quickly on my forehand. I grabbed a Haydenshapes Untitled (Awayco) today that someone mentioned worked well for them. Unfortunately the only Sub Scorcher II at E.T. was a little too beefy for me. That's still on my must try list.

The search continues FMW (wallet)...
ci black and white? whatever dane rides. get a stamps gx dane file. its a gx with lower entry rocker.
 

ChaseTMP

Michael Peterson status
Apr 6, 2014
1,802
3,253
113
S. Redondo
Yeah, the B&W was on my radar. I'm kinda locked-in with my local shop as they've been helping me out with not losing too much money on the duds. I'd have to go with the actual CI board and they didn't have my size in yesterday. The Sampler is on the list as well. I'll reach out to the CI rep who's a friend of a friend and see if I can borrow one of those two if he has them as personal boards, since he's my same size.
 

jkb

Tom Curren status
Feb 22, 2005
10,161
9,294
113
Central California
Awayco may also have a Sampler for you to try..... they did in my area.

Sampler was a good board, but was a bit bulky for me. If you are able to demo one and find the same, you can custom order a more refined version from Stamps like havoc said.