How bout an alternative submission?
<img src="http://www.romanoskyphoto.com/assets/images/bb5.jpg" alt=" - " />
The Wedge. Mid august. 10 foot southern hemi, 195 degrees. 5:45 AM. Me, Bobby, Andrew, Kenny, and Pat are the only ones in the water. 5 wave sets every 5 minutes, the last two are 2 feet bigger than the first three. We take off at the side wave, which has some solid push, and right as you get to the main part of the wave, the side wave hits it, and it jacks up into a perfect, huge gaping barrel. Completely makeable, everytime. you come out and there is a perfect section coming at you to hit, and go nuts trying some technical bodyboarding tricks. Every 15 minutes or so, a set swings wide and forms a perfect huge peak, and we all get caught inside, except for one of us who takes the huge drop and gets annihilated as we all cheer. Around 9 the hot wedge-fan girls start showing up, and at 10 the lifeguard stops me as i'm retrieving my board. Wincing at the inevitable "don't let me catch you in the water again," I'm shoked when I realize the "lifeguard" is mike stewart himself, and he tells me about how he gagged the real lifeguard and locked him in a bathroom down at the balboa pier.
<img src="http://www.romanoskyphoto.com/assets/images/bb3.jpg" alt=" - " /> The bodysurfer crew would normally get pissed but they understand that stewart is the best bodysurfer in the world as well as bodyboarder, so they are as stoked as we are to surf with him. <img src="http://www.romanoskyphoto.com/assets/images/b6.jpg" alt=" - " /> The winds never pick up, and we spend the rest of the day trading waves with the best bodyboarder in the world, and 2 bodysurfers teaching us how to merge with the wave and be one. The tide changes in the afternoon and the swell drops a little bit, and I grab an old surfboard and give it a go. Its still the heaviest wave I've ever surfed but the shape is so good that I get two or three in and outs before I snap the surfboard. I don't care, it was old and it died a good death.
<img src="http://www.romanoskyphoto.com/assets/images/ss10.jpg" alt=" - " />
We all spend an hour goofing off, bodysurfing, trying weird airs, hitting the nasty backwashy waves.
<img src="http://www.romanoskyphoto.com/assets/images/bb1.jpg" alt=" - " /> We collapse onto the beach around 8 oclock, and stewart invites us to come stay with him in hawaii. He also extends the invitation to a group of girls that were enamored with us and our performance out there, and they gladly accept. With his personal cell and plans to travel up there in october, we say our goodbyes
until tomorrow morning at 5:45 that is <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="images/icons/grin.gif" />