- Aug 5, 2021
Surfers, music, boards, styles, chicks, etc., etc.,
Really that phenomenon lasted until about 15 years ago. Surf here is now crowded even when its 20*.No one went to the beach from labor day to the fourth of July. Labor day was always a zoo at the beach. Tuesday morning was a ghost town. Empty waves for months.
The O'Neill supersuit was released and let me surf for much longer in mid-winter New England Waves.
We had shortboards and leashes, a big improvement over the 9'6" Greg Noll I started with.
Multi temperature surf wax became available. The paraffin wax we had to use before this provided almost no traction in the winter.
No one went to the beach from labor day to the fourth of July. Labor day was always a zoo at the beach. Tuesday morning was a ghost town. Empty waves for months.
Surfers: 00s. Arc, First Chapter, Free as a Dog, Secret MachineSurfers, music, boards, styles, chicks, etc., etc.,
My first fullsuit was O'niell Animal Skin with dark green chest/back panels. Toasty!
Animal Skins! Bayley Suits! Coconut Wax Research and Coppertone. And free transportation to and from the beach (hitch hiking)!
im with you 100% hereSurfers: 00s. Arc, First Chapter, Free as a Dog, Secret Machine
Three of the Vero go-to's died in the late 90s/early 00s. First Peak turned to sh!t in early 00s. The last real Vero "spot" got worse after the Isabel swell in 2003 and now it's a shorebreak or blowout novelty.
The Aipa crew were my high school heroes. Throw in Dane Kealoha's man turns.Bertleman, Lidell, Buttons...
Kaiser's / Ala Moana Bowl's parking lotBertleman, Lidell, Buttons...