YOLO ALERTS

Sauce

OTF status
Oct 6, 2021
307
448
63
Here is the YOLO alert I promised you guys. Meant to bridge the very large gap between my mid-length which I love (CI Mid) and my myriads of 7'+ step-up/guns.

Was riding my CI Mid in some HH+ surf the other day and loved the paddle and glide but the board was definitely redlining (despite making some fin adjustments) so decided a YOLO was a must.

I've always wanted to try an Album Ledge and the dims seemed to do the trick. I was skeptical that the board could come out at ~42L given the dimensions (6'9 x 19.75 x 2.56) until I saw the foil. This thing is flat AF in the deck. Looks like a barrel of fun. Nice clean glass job on this one btw.

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I frigging love my ledge. You're gonna be stoked. It's the board that made me comfortable in solid overhead waves. Mine is 6'5 ~39 liters and I would not change a thing, im 170-175 lbs
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,137
9,375
113
eastside oahu
Got a text Friday my boar was done but I had an appointment to estimate a job so I replied I’ll come get the boar on Monday. Ordered early October so it took 2 months. Wade said they’ve been the busiest they’ve been since the 90’s. If the Japanese were coming to Hawaii it would be the busiest ever.

Jeannie sprayed the boar. It’s a Tokoro 4X. 5’10 x 20 1/8 x 2 3/4. 33.5 L. 4oz bottom. 4oz e x 4oz s on the deck. Double inside of a single concave blending into a vee out the tail. I asked Wade for a thumb tail instead of a round pin to give it a little more volume in the tail. Gonna use it for head high to a couple feet overhead NS waves. The 4X needs a pocket and rides the barrel well. Wade modified the 4VC to make it easier to get into waves for older arms like mine. He lessen the nose rocker and widen the nose coming up with the 4X.

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Is it kookish to reply to your own post? Painting outside the lines then. Haha.

Got a sequence sent to me of the new Tokoro 4X in action. Told him I wouldn’t post it on the gram and especially if you can tell where this is. This is from that shocker day when I was falling so much I slept on the floor so I wouldn’t fall off my bed. One of the waves I didn’t fall.
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teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,137
9,375
113
eastside oahu
is that a full length 4oz s-glass layer or a patch? How does it feel and compare to your usual glass schedules or is that your usual?
Yes full length s cloth on the deck. My usual glassing on boars under 6’0 is single layer 4oz s cloth with front foot and tail patches. I normally go 3/4 length on second layer for step ups but I wanted this boar to weigh just a little more. It feels a little heavier for my shortboar but been surfing the NS so it hasn’t hindered performance in fact it feels better than the extra light boars when there’s a little bump on the waves or the trades are stronger.
 

Retropete

Phil Edwards status
Jan 20, 2006
6,017
4,524
113
Sunny Coast Qld Australia
it's an HP version of my favorite groveler (SUB)

Bloody Album website is a PITA. Since I'm in Australia as soon as I open that link it throws up a "you're in Australia" notification and goes straight to the Australian website so can't even see the full model range. Bugger all Yolo capacity with the stock level they run with here but the prices are also a handbrake.
Anyway I like the look of your board. My favourite groveller is also a wide diamond tail and it has me thinking of simply going for a more pulled in version for when it gets bigger. Keep us updated with how it goes for you.
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Mr J

Michael Peterson status
Aug 18, 2003
2,261
1,468
113
Regional Vic, Australia
Yes full length s cloth on the deck. My usual glassing on boars under 6’0 is single layer 4oz s cloth with front foot and tail patches. I normally go 3/4 length on second layer for step ups but I wanted this boar to weigh just a little more. It feels a little heavier for my shortboar but been surfing the NS so it hasn’t hindered performance in fact it feels better than the extra light boars when there’s a little bump on the waves or the trades are stronger.
The full s/e schedule could be done 2 ways. Either s first, cut to only the rail apex, then e on top with full lap OR e first to apex then s with a full lap. It could be done other ways e.g second layer to apex, but that's the most likely as it makes the filler coat/sanding easier. The latter would in theory give the stiffer stronger board.

Do you happen to know which way it was done and whether the 3/4 length layer on your step ups is s or e?

I am interested because I bust two local custom boars in the last year (my fault and I have stopped going out in big dumping close outs). What I liked about my local customs were that they had a really lively ride. I was given their recommended schedule for my type of mini HP boar - "standard grom build" is the term they use. It is just one layer of e both sides with a rear foot patch wrapping down the tail rail. Is said to be better than their black carbon rail tail strips option - that's only for people who want that look. The reason being that it is a bigger patch going over all the tail deck not just the rails. Cut with a curved V similar to how tinted longboar fin patches are shaped. These gave a really lively ride which I loved, but when I went back for the 3rd replacement build it was suggested I get something they were about to try for the first time for a run of "strong grom builds" - full length 2 oz s glass on top of the 4 oz e. I am noticing maybe a tiny loss of liveliness.

I got fantastic results with my self build - 3/4 length e glass under full lapped e glass. At 5 lb in weight it feels just as lively as my single e glass tail patch only customs, but would in theory be more snap resistant. I did however lam it with a laborious one layer at a time technique starting with a resin on bare foam squeegee scrape. I am wondering what to do for my next one - maybe use a layer of s glass.

This is a nice video which shows what I am talking about regarding the cut to apex layer and the full lapped layer.

 
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teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,137
9,375
113
eastside oahu
The full s/e schedule could be done 2 ways. Either s first, cut to only the rail apex, then e on top with full lap OR e first to apex then s with a full lap. It could be done other ways e.g second layer to apex, but that's the most likely as it makes the filler coat/sanding easier. The latter would in theory give the stiffer stronger board.

Do you happen to know which way it was done and whether the 3/4 length layer on your step ups is s or e?

I am interested because I bust two local custom boars in the last year (my fault and I have stopped going out in big dumping close outs). What I liked about my local customs were that they had a really lively ride. I was given their recommended schedule for my type of mini HP boar - "standard grom build" is the term they use. It is just one layer of e both sides with a rear foot patch wrapping down the tail rail. Is said to be better than their black carbon rail tail strips option - that's only for people who want that look. The reason being that it is a bigger patch going over all the tail deck not just the rails. Cut with a curved V similar to how tinted longboar fin patches are shaped. These gave a really lively ride which I loved, but when I went back for the 3rd replacement build it was suggested I get something they were about to try for the first time for a run of "strong grom builds" - full length 2 oz s glass on top of the 4 oz e. I am noticing maybe a tiny loss of liveliness.

I got fantastic results with my self build - 3/4 length e glass under full lapped e glass. At 5 lb in weight it feels just as lively as my single e glass tail patch only customs, but would in theory be more snap resistant. I did however lam it with a laborious one layer at a time technique starting with a resin on bare foam squeegee scrape. I am wondering what to do for my next one - maybe use a layer of s glass.

This is a nice video which shows what I am talking about regarding the cut to apex layer and the full lapped layer.


The top layer is s-cloth on full or 3/4 length schedule and wraps under. My HIC boars that I ask for just a single layer of s-cloth on the deck have an inch wider lap. Uncle Steven at HIC has Laminations do that for all their ultra light team builds. He said the glassers don’t like doing that but he’s been ordering it that way because he thinks it helps decrease the chance of boars breaking. The rear foot patch is shaped like a horse shoe and wraps over the rail. The HIC rear patch covers a little more area. On my Tokoro’s Wade likes the front foot patch cut into a circle so there’s no straight line going across the deck screaming tear here. The front foot patch on my HIC boars are shaped like an chevron/ sergeant stripe. And for both brands the 3/4 layer is cut into a vee shape at the start of the nose area.

I use to order Kevlar strips in the tail cause my toe side rails get smashed in. I’m heavy on the balls of my feet I guess. Wade said he uses drywall tape to reinforce that area and doesn’t charge the $10 or $15 more they do for carbon or Kevlar strips.
 
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