Wipeout Advice in Bigger Surf?

Mar 13, 2019
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I don't worry so much about the waves I can see. If I can see it, I'll usually try to get over, around, under, or through it. It's that moment just after the wipeout when you're not quite sure where you are in relation to the wave energy, but you know it's not good. :eek: That's what gets me.
 

gbg

Miki Dora status
Jan 22, 2006
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Ever make the mistake of trying to duck dive a double OH plus set at Blacks? Ripped the board out of my hands and smashed and tossed me upside down and all around. Both calves locked up and were stuck to my quads. No legs and 4 more on the head. I stopped fighting. I had no fight after the first 2. Closest I've ever been to drowning.
 

surfysurfy1476

Nep status
Jan 27, 2018
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That article said dont jump off your board. Its a waste of oxygen. Basically dont use your legs at all.
 
Mar 13, 2019
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That article said dont jump off your board. Its a waste of oxygen. Basically dont use your legs at all.
Yeah, the article said a few interesting things, but I think it largely depends on the context. Like, if you know you're in for a long hold down, maybe it makes sense not to use your legs or not to dive head first. But, Nathan Florence does a good job of pointing out that there are times when diving under the wave power makes more sense. Personally, I can definitely think of situations where I was glad to have used my legs to get myself out of harm's way.
 

bluengreen

Michael Peterson status
Oct 22, 2018
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SF x Encinitas
FWIW, here's my limited experience up here in NorCal. Practicing three part breathing to keep calm and oxygenate when in the lineup has been really helpful for me. Also, being tactical. I pace my paddle-outs whether I'm coming off the beach or heading back out after getting a wave. I'd rather have a relatively low heart-rate and get caught inside than be working 110% and still get caught inside. I always err on the side of a bigger board and thicker leash. I sit outside and wait for bombs so I don't get caught inside. I stay the fuck out of rips. If I feel like the wave is sucking out too fast or I'm not 100% into it on takeoff, I pull back. I've had 6 or 7 sessions in waves over 10 feet this season, and I've only wiped out twice (once on takeoff) and have caught dozens of waves in the power zone, no shoulder hopping unless it's my warm-up wave. Oh yeah, and I ALWAYS barrel dodge (j/k, just sometimes)!

In terms of wiping out, I had a bad concussion out of the water several years ago, so I always protect my head when I wipe out: Elbows up with hands cupped over the back of the head. Take the beating and come up when I feel the wave energy release me. In big whitewaters when I need to bail my board, I go under head first but stay parallel to the bottom. Most times, this keeps me close to the surface; I would rather get pushed back than down. That said, sometimes sh!t happens. I'm still waiting for an epic beatdown this winter, and 'm sure it will come -- maybe today, since I just jinxed myself by posting this. Just please, no busted eardrum.
 
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Mar 13, 2019
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... Oh yeah, and I ALWAYS barrel dodge (j/k, just sometimes)! ...
That all sounds like solid advice, and I'm only just coming to many of the same tactics as you. And yeah, I hate to admit it, but I also have a tendency to outrun the barrel. I guess it's better than fading the bottom turn too much and scrubbing all your speed so that you're a sitting duck in the pit of doom (which I've also done more than I'd like to admit.)
 

Subway

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Dec 31, 2008
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fuclk yeah. From advice from chargers known well and trusted on here and IRL, I push myself harder and take more risks and have more chances too (2019 had a LOT of big/perfect/medium but heavy etc type sessions around the world and at home like that for me) and it has paid off in both more barrels and more heavy waves well ridden (in my own humbly competent but average lifelong personal skill such as it is lol) and more beatings too. Truth the oracle said it “you will make more of them than you think”