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I saw that. He basically duck dives everything except in rare circumstances.Nate Florence has a good YouTube about this.
I saw that. He basically duck dives everything except in rare circumstances.
Small boards and in big surf a lot. Good for him.
I’m not surfing TOH waves on 6’2s.
Yeah, the article said a few interesting things, but I think it largely depends on the context. Like, if you know you're in for a long hold down, maybe it makes sense not to use your legs or not to dive head first. But, Nathan Florence does a good job of pointing out that there are times when diving under the wave power makes more sense. Personally, I can definitely think of situations where I was glad to have used my legs to get myself out of harm's way.That article said dont jump off your board. Its a waste of oxygen. Basically dont use your legs at all.
That all sounds like solid advice, and I'm only just coming to many of the same tactics as you. And yeah, I hate to admit it, but I also have a tendency to outrun the barrel. I guess it's better than fading the bottom turn too much and scrubbing all your speed so that you're a sitting duck in the pit of doom (which I've also done more than I'd like to admit.)... Oh yeah, and I ALWAYS barrel dodge (j/k, just sometimes)! ...