Wipeout Advice in Bigger Surf?

[HotHail]

Ive been surfing my entire life, and at 52 years old, im in the worst shape ive ever been in, yet surfing the biggest waves I ever have. It is because im extremely patient and calculated. Studying where and when the bomb sets break. Study and time the sets. Ive had a couple of "near drownings" in my 20s. I don't like it and avoid it. Additionally I have developed a bail technique for when you have to take the bulldozer. I point my board towards shore and give it a shove, then pindrop feet first as deep as I can while holding the leash with both hands. This puts you in a position to climb your leash. It requires a long, strong leash and double plugs. I know this doesnt address the spontaneous, nose poke, rail catch, too deep scenario. But im not a risk taker. I only take makeable waves.

So many questions. Doesn't the leash get ripped through your hands? Are you using a longer leash than normal in bigger surf? If you're holding the leash with both hands, then I assume you're not covering your head, right? Also, all the waves I've ever wiped out on, I thought were makable when I paddled for them, lol.

 

[Joshua2415]

 

[000]

http://imgur.com/a/0iWTT5c

 

[Autoprax]

You need to get that guy to wrestle you in the pool like he did with Kelly.

 

[kelly7873]

In Hawaii once it gets even a little bit "big" nearly everyone wears flotation.

 

[jamesgang]

In Hawaii once it gets even a little bit "big" nearly everyone wears flotation.

Pretty crazy right? Even at 10' Sunset, which seems like overkill to me. I get 12'-15' north swell Sunset when it gets pretty sporty, but on a regular 10' day people still wear those bulky vests. I assume it's because people just get used to wearing them, but they seem super restrictive to me.

 

[kelly7873]

10 ' Sunset, how about 5' Jocko's. Inside Himalayas @ 8' it's almost 50% wearing some kind of flotation. Outside Himi's it's almost 100%.

 

[jamesgang]

That's crazy. I don't surf much past the Bay, so I really only see guys at Sunset and Phantoms, and at a couple east side outer reefs. I'm not a big wave guy, but I guess I just feel like I want to get to my feet and to the channel, and all that bulk might trip me up. I can prepare for getting caught inside, I'm way more scared of blowing a drop. Everything seems to happen that much faster. Have you ever worn one?

 

[kelly7873]

I have a cheapo waterski vest that I wore out a couple times a few years ago but now I mostly just sit in the channel and watch.

 

[Subway]

I only saw a couple guys wearing them at big-ish hanalei, but they were older guys, charging

 

[hammies]

How did those old guys ever do it without vests and jet skis and leashes and with their crappy old longboards?

 

[HotHail]

I understand how flotation can help you resurface, but can't it also be a liability with duckdiving and the whitewash? I blew a takeoff yesterday on an OH+ wave and got washed so far inside that I couldn't believe how much distance I covered before I came up. If I had flotation on, I think I would have been driven even further, maybe even into the rocks/cliffs.

 

[surfysurfy1476]

From what Ive heard you can still duck dive pretty decent with them. On a gun you aren't duck diving anyways.

 

[HotHail]

This article from Mark Visser just posted on Surfline and seems relevant to the thread. Linking it here in case it helps anyone else. I'm curious to hear thoughts and if anyone agrees/disagrees with any of the advice.

Five Ways to Expand Your Big-Wave Consciousness

How to keep your head cool when conditions heat up in the ocean, according to Mark Visser.

www.surfline.com

 

[oneworlded]

did same thing in 8-10 obx, nc. (which is probably not the same as 10' Tahiti) but I surfaced and couldn't tell which was was out to sea and which was was in. Long board, no leash surfing alone in Frisco.. Tried to laydown and paddle and fell off my board. tried again, fell off again. fortunately, I just held onto my board and got washed in. Not my best moment.

I had a wave hit me so hard during a fast rising swell (Hurricane Felix '95) at Frisco that it badly bloodied my nose. It also broke my board -- and I was way out at sea with sets just blacking out the horizon. About as scared as I've been. Just tried to relax, grab what was left of the tail of my board and bodysurf in and hope the blood didnt' attract sharks. Definitely not my proudest moment. One of a very few times I've kissed the sand.

 

[Beerbelly]

Just what Subway said. Laugh..it’s funny.

 

[surfysurfy1476]

This article from Mark Visser just posted on Surfline and seems relevant to the thread. Linking it here in case it helps anyone else. I'm curious to hear thoughts and if anyone agrees/disagrees with any of the advice.

Five Ways to Expand Your Big-Wave Consciousness

How to keep your head cool when conditions heat up in the ocean, according to Mark Visser.

www.surfline.com

Ive only been caught by a 20ft (face) set once. Other than that my experience is in DOH-TOH surf. I dont think theres anything wrong with diving head down under and towards the white water. Maybe Im wrong? I usually pindrop anyways.

 

[Duffy LaCoronilla]

Ive only been caught by a 20ft (face) set once. Other than that my experience is in DOH-TOH surf. I dont think theres anything wrong with diving head down under and towards the white water. Maybe Im wrong? I usually pindrop anyways.

Didn’t read you link but....

When bailing I always face the white water (easier to time it), submerge feet first rotating as I go under so my back is to the wave when the sh!t hits the fan.

I usually end up sort of folded in a wedge or a hunched-like position as if I just go punched in the gut. Sometimes the board will be pulling me such that my body sort of straightens out. When that happens I usually cover some distance under water.

 

[surfysurfy1476]

Didn’t read you link but....

When bailing I always face the white water (easier to time it), submerge feet first rotating as I go under so my back is to the wave when the sh!t hits the fan.

I usually end up sort of folded in a wedge or a hunched-like position as if I just go punched in the gut. Sometimes the board will be pulling me such that my body sort of straightens out. When that happens I usually cover some distance under water.

Yeah thats what I do, it has the added advantage of your leg being in the optimal position for the leash to yank it. I usually only go head first if its to get under a falling lip.

 

[VonMeister]

Where I mostly surf your worst beatings you are just drug across the sand bottom for a few secs then you push off the bottom with your legs. Makes it easy.

Most of mine have been tactical errors...diving forward in a barrel, trying to jump up and over or into the wave face etc. One of the worst I remember is making a late decision that a wave was unduckdivible and lazily rolling off my board in front of a wall of whitewater. Long hold down in conditions that shouldn't have been near that. Came up seeing stars.

Best place to be is penetrating at the bottom under or as close to the curl as possible before the lip comes down.