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not hard at all. We all make choices.twice as old but surfed half as much, lack of water time makes a man salty and bitter. hard to keep the stoke alive when you don't see decent waves more than a handful of times per year.
Now that Gravy says it was the biggest ever, I feel a little better about my performance,not hard at all. We all make choices.
back to the matter at hand, lets see some more photos /vids of this swell.
With all due respect to Gravy and the commenters calling it 20 feet or biggest ever......... Big day for sure. Once in 10 years kind of day perhaps. This swell was also particularly raw and unruly. Plenty of us 50+ clubbers remember bigger days. I'm sure the Surfer mag archives have the goods to prove it. Guys like Scotty Duerr surfed every big swell back in the film and magazine days I remember shots of him and others running in the magazines long before Gravy was born. Even more recently clips have been out there of guys like Hammer, Humphries and Gleeson charging mutants at home.Ben Gravy calling biggest ever! Commenters are calling 20ft![]()
count on itAssuming that the wave did not totally close out a second after the shot was snapped.![]()
Far from biggest.Some fun but challenging surf to be had. looks like Jersey went off.
sorry to bring you guys back from the political forum, as you were.
View attachment 122659
some very strong offshores led to a little challenging condition here but got some fun ones in. water is cold but not too bad.
sorry if this is a repost. (picture from surfline, please credit to them)
Guess they weren't all weak!There is a reason guys from NJ and NC surf well in Hawaii. 08738 looking more like a certain spot in 96712 than most erBBers would care to admit. Second slide.
http://instagr.am/p/CY5HC_AMA2o/
Or maybe the black female physician you called a "witch doctor" really is a witch doctor.Got my ass totally kicked yesterday, long difficult paddle, tricky late drops, closeouts, encroaching age, etc. Pretty hard to stay ready when we get waves once a month, WAH!
So effeminate with your petty little gotchas, probably keep a list for future use.Or maybe the black female physician you called a "witch doctor" really is a witch doctor.
the cattiness of all the women he works with has a rub off effect, you can't fault a person's lack of awareness due to their poor environment, ignorance really is bliss sometimesSo effeminate with your petty little gotchas, probably keep a list for future use.
There's no gotcha.So effeminate with your petty little gotchas, probably keep a list for future use.
its all the vlogging brah!There is a reason guys from NJ and NC surf well in Hawaii. 08738 looking more like a certain spot in 96712 than most erBBers would care to admit. Second slide.
http://instagr.am/p/CY5HC_AMA2o/