not hard at all. We all make choices.twice as old but surfed half as much, lack of water time makes a man salty and bitter. hard to keep the stoke alive when you don't see decent waves more than a handful of times per year.
With all due respect to Gravy and the commenters calling it 20 feet or biggest ever......... Big day for sure. Once in 10 years kind of day perhaps. This swell was also particularly raw and unruly. Plenty of us 50+ clubbers remember bigger days. I'm sure the Surfer mag archives have the goods to prove it. Guys like Scotty Duerr surfed every big swell back in the film and magazine days I remember shots of him and others running in the magazines long before Gravy was born. Even more recently clips have been out there of guys like Hammer, Humphries and Gleeson charging mutants at home.Ben Gravy calling biggest ever! Commenters are calling 20ft
Far from biggest.Some fun but challenging surf to be had. looks like Jersey went off.
sorry to bring you guys back from the political forum, as you were.
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some very strong offshores led to a little challenging condition here but got some fun ones in. water is cold but not too bad.
sorry if this is a repost. (picture from surfline, please credit to them)
its all the vlogging brah!