I was talking to a couple of adult learners yesterday. The surf was very walled up and they were not able to make it out on their long boards. They told me they just worked on "White Water Drills". What the F are white water drills?!?
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Ha!Turtling attempts without turtling?
Same, friend said meet me at duck dive beach. I shoulda watched for a while before I paddled out. 2 waves 100 duck dives.I got caught inside today by about 20 waves in a row. Felt like a white water drill.
I just don’t like when you start going end over end and your body starts getting torqued away from the board, wrenching your back. Happened a few times the past few weeks.“Roll overs” = turtles = on a long board are great white water drills. Cardio. Shoulders / arms
How to get out of those situations OR just turn around, lay out on your board and head for the beach. In the white water. Regroup, watch the waves and use your head …. Timing. Wave movement.Intuitions.
Longboards have so much flotation. One has to learn how to manage that much flotation and not struggle OR like most do, let the board go, get dragged underwater by your leash and come up spitting water, trying to get your board under control and paddling back out to the line up.
Holding onto a longboard is the best thing you can do. It’s your flotation device, It’s there with you, not dragging your twenty yards down the beach underwater.. If a surfboard is coming at you fin up, roll, grab the nose with both hands and pull the nose over your head and protect it with the board. You may, get your fingers bashed, maybe, but your head will be in one piece.
Tie one end of your leash to a pilling and just paddle your board in between the pillings and try to hold your position. LOTS of wave action going on under a pier. It may Look stupid, but one can gain knowledge from doing so.