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What's up with....Thread
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
I always wanted to know what was up with the dude who surfed Capitola Jetty in a wetsuit with board shorts over it. That was fucking weird, man. I never asked him. His friends just accepted this behavior.
Damn you sound like Chandler in NS. LOL
So, you don't see way too many people having the choice of direction and going the "wrong" way and wasting the better wave that goes unridden?? I guess TBF it's usually people you haven't seen before, but sometimes it happens with the older locals too. Guys get set in their ways- like I'm going right no matter what (guilty. LOL). If that's the case and I can't paddle to the other side in time, on most average days, I'm happy to delay my drop to wait for them to go, and cross behind them. A little heads up just makes the timing easier. Like I've said, I usually give someone benefit of the doubt the first wave... and you can usually tell after that, as you suggest.
YMMV
I think the biggest difference is reefs with a small takeoff and peaky breaks with waves that pop up in different spots.
where I surf a lot, the wave bends. It looks like it will hit one spot but actually back off and break slightly to the north or south depending on swell direction and section of the reef spine.
locals sit tight knowing this while the tourist surfer scratches and jockeys for position. Lots of “are you going left or rights” get asked meanwhile I sit steady next to my local/regular buddy who I know goes left and who knows I will go right.
so when we are asked, no, we don’t answer, we just go. sometiems the left is better, sometimes it’s the right, and if we are lucky we’re 400yrds apart and both in ankle deep water.
very rare to see a wave go unridden. It’s too crowded for that on the inside.
If we are lucky and we all know each other (at the takeoff) the whole taking turns, hooting eachother in bc my last one was so good, actually is a thing and it’s nice.
Took me the better part of a decade to earn the status. Hunny bunny always asks why all the old duuu’s at the beach know me but don’t recognize me at the market. Lol.
How about when I walk down to a random peak down the beach thats worse than all the other spots only to have some duu paddle out and sit 10 feet from me?
What about when you ask "going left or right" and the right is clearly better, but he sees your eyes looking left and goes left! WTF! Trying to be nice and give him the right and the prick goes left!
Not to beat a dead horse on this topic, but I just think it's interesting how different spots are...
Yeah, so nice when it happens like that, and it does when I catch the right conditions, maybe when it starts out just ok with 5-10 guys out as tide/winds switch and it turns on before the crowds realize it (or spot it on cam). Or more often at lesser quality reefs around, and that's usually a tradeoff of quantity/size/quality.
But those sessions are few and far between nowadays at the couple main spots I surf- which are mostly locals and familiar faces. Maybe you'd be surprised, but there's TOO many locals now. Even the mysto ones have come out of the woodwork the past year. On any decent+ swell, if there's 30 out, maybe 25 are locals (from 2, maybe 3 generations too). Even with a couple takeoff zones, guys get impatient waiting their turn after a few waves, nobody wants to back down paddling, so they even get eggy with each other after miscommunications, drop-ins, and quick kickouts. The twenty-something "so-and-so's son" guys are the most entitled & aggressive, and with a few yards of space, think they can drop in on the older guys who ride the bigger stap boards (no matter the swell) and take off way outside, followed by a half-hearted excuse knowing they won't really get in trouble.
It's kinda a sh#tshow and can be dangerous on decent swells. There's a lot of "heated" discussions after drop-ins & collisions but these days confrontations rarely go beyond that. Hence not as respectful and orderly as when I was a grom. Sometimes even a couple long waves is worth entering the thunderdome, but more and more often, it bums me out. Probably a big factor is I usually have less than an hour to surf, so if I see there's >20 out, I'd rather get more waves at a lower quality spot. The boards I have now help make the most of that, and keep it interesting. (see how I rationalized my boardhoarding there?)
My reef is mostly lefts but a short right comes off the peak that I well give up any day to go left. Problem is wave first peaks at top of reef then bowls at first crack and you get shoulder hoppers trying to drop in.
and even the same spot given time of day or day of the week.
I totally agree ”everyone is some kind of local”, and my favorite is when the two packs of locals fight with one another, and yet another pack of locals looks on and chuckles.
pay it forward, be liked by many, and I seem to get handed a fair share of waves.
the absolute worse is when it’s all locals and no tourists bc we then end up battling each other and it makes for a heated session.
One spot I like is 95% rights. I've had guys call me off to go left. Usually collision and yelling ensue. At the next peak to the North, there is a divider boil. If one is on the left side and tries to go left, they get clued in quickly also.
This what the Seaside Reef parking lot is all about.
Asking right or left or just saying "Let's split this one" - this is pretty common practice when there's an option to go either way... pretty much everywhere except California.
I will also ask "Are you going?" when I know I want it but the guy in position is looking indecisive.
This helps make sure waves don't go unridden.
I will also ask "Are you going?" when I know I want it but the guy in position is looking indecisive.
This helps make sure waves don't go unridden.
Saw this a handful of time here in the pnw at a few of the more popular spots during the summer months. Mind you, this was
back in the in the mid 90's. I think it was more of "having fun" statement than anything else.
All the longboard guys look at me like this because im out there groveeling, duus I can longboard too...
About to pull out the log because i'm only established in the shortboar pecking order
I can go Joel Jitsu on that azz!
About to pull out the log because i'm only established in the shortboar pecking order
I can go Joel Jitsu on that azz!