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I sort of agree with this...except for the fact that I would farking LOVE to have the chance at it with a Manta, Mandala SC, HPTC twinzer , or...anything.That wave looks frustrating. Doesn’t look like you can do a proper bottom turn. Fast with a small pocket and soft shoulders.
bingoI think Pete Sampras said it perfectly. Its not surfing but it relates in a way.
"I learned early that the secret of a powerful tennis serve is timing. You don’t have to be the strongest person out there. You just need to toss the ball high and to the right spot consistently. Then your body has to work in unison to snap the power just as the ball descends. It’s the uncoiling explosion."
A twin feel keel fish at your height or a little over your height would be ideal, IMO.Some of the best surfing I've seen out there was from an older Aussie guy who lives there. 12-15ft faces, and he was on a chunky, 8ft, parallel-rail quad fish. Showed all the undergunned young guys how to surf it and on what board.
Get a Tomo Evo and put some h4's in there. hahaah.That wave looks frustrating. Doesn’t look like you can do a proper bottom turn. Fast with a small pocket and soft shoulders.
I would try the FCS h4 fins. Those fins help a board go faster. Do I sound like DC and his Tomo crush. Been crushing hard on the h4’s hahaha.
One thing I noticed about the "twin fish keel guys" is that they would get a little hung up at the lip when paddling, and they would drop in all the way down to the bottom of the wave causing them to stuck behind the first section. Slightly oversizing the board would probably be a good call.Twin fin Keel fish, slightly oversized since it looks like a lot of paddling
Surprisingly, there's this one guy on a 6ft single fin that has a little bit of hull in the nose, and he swoops thru sections with very little effort. The same sections that the last 20 guys failed to make. I really don't understand it."at speed u can plane on just a few square inches of your boards bottom, so u have less drag holding u back"
This part of the controlled lift I've spoken of here for 15 years - something from the early 70's
Board designed together with fins can create this effect in all waves
Boards designed with no fin boards can never acheive this .
Honestly, I feel like my old Vader could get me thru a lot of those sections, but it would probably fail when the wind kicked in.Get a Tomo Evo and put some h4's in there. hahaah.
I think that wave looks frustrating too. You would need to read the wave carefully and try and get to the bottom as quickly as possible and do strong bottom turns to get any sort of decent turn out of it. Top to bottom surfing. The challenge might be fun though. Those waves look fun with the right board and fins. Good luck
I'd be having a look at not only the bottom but his rails on that board if you can...projection is the key!Surprisingly, there's this one guy on a 6ft single fin that has a little bit of hull in the nose, and he swoops thru sections with very little effort. The same sections that the last 20 guys failed to make. I really don't understand it.
It really is a frustrating wave. Sometimes the conditions line up for like an hour and it's amazing. Then it all gets really frustrating again. Last time I got fed up, paddled over to Padang and scored with one other guy out for about 2 hours (just overhead). That's a scary, but rewarding wave.its called impossibles for a reason. in my limited experience there, the bigger it is - the better the wave holds.
i rode a 6'4 quad GX, slightly stretched out with a roundtail out there the few times Ive surfed it and it was probably 6 - maybe 8 on the largest day. constant pumping and skating on the backside. no time for a bottom turn just pedal to the metal and bob and weave the sections.
now that I have a teeny bit of experience on a midlenght I think my 6'8 single fin would be the best board for out there. that said - id rather go up to Ulu or down to Bingin because as others said - its a frustrating wave.