Relocate to somewhere that doesn't have bunk waves.
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What is needed for a beachbreak to be good?
- Thread starter Northern_Shores
- Start date
Interestingly, sometimes the sand disappears and it breaks on a flat reef (sometimes dry). That is the reason I previously asked to define beachbreak. Sand may not determine whether it is or isn't one.
yeah, that was good. Gnarly. Camped there a long time ago. Boated in from Peta once
You were at all those places at the right time. There's always some trade off, the equipment vs. the crowd being the first that comes to mind.
Question: What is a beach break?
ChatGPT AI response: A beach break is a type of surf spot that is located near the shoreline and breaks over a sandy bottom. Beach breaks can have a variety of wave shapes and sizes, depending on the specific conditions of the beach and the surrounding coastline. They are typically formed by the combination of wind, tides, and swells, and can range from small, mushy waves suitable for beginners to larger, more powerful waves that are more challenging for experienced surfers. Beach breaks are popular for surfing, bodyboarding, and other water sports, and can be found in locations around the world with suitable conditions.
ChatGPT AI response: A beach break is a type of surf spot that is located near the shoreline and breaks over a sandy bottom. Beach breaks can have a variety of wave shapes and sizes, depending on the specific conditions of the beach and the surrounding coastline. They are typically formed by the combination of wind, tides, and swells, and can range from small, mushy waves suitable for beginners to larger, more powerful waves that are more challenging for experienced surfers. Beach breaks are popular for surfing, bodyboarding, and other water sports, and can be found in locations around the world with suitable conditions.
WOW! I literally posted my question below before this post showed up. I'm just too lazy to download the chatGPT app to find out.
Funny I grew up surfing there as a grom in the late 80's before graduating up the hill, it got really good but I got two staph infections from the water. That little corner of the south bay sure used to get nasty when it rained.
ironically, 15 years ago Ponto was a really good beach break. Long tubes sometimes. It's not like that anymore. Del Mar beach on Camp Pendelton has some combination of factors that makes it really good with any sort of south in the swell and no wind. Wind changes that wave quickly.
A beach break is only as good as the sand bars, which are transitory. Better to create point breaks by stacking up crushed auto bodies, rocks and other massive objects. Create a long point break for long rides.
Ritually sacrifice a reindeer for some tide movement. If that doesn't work, eat a Tide Pod for the Tide God.
Well if Wedge is a beach break.. and it is.. here is a dredger from quite some time ago.
An example surfing beach from this region is Rhossilli Bay. Four miles of sand with no jetties or rocks. There is a creek that spreads its outflow in wide narrow channel. Large tidal range and long gentle slope means the tide covers a huge amount of ground in between low and high. Even the creek fails to have an effect on producing favourable sandbanks and nothing remarkable happens along its entire length. Rip currents are rare making it a tough paddle on size. So with all other things absent, we can debunk the theory that large tide range alone will produce good waves.
@Northern_Shores this is one answer to your question. Its not the only valid answer. This is the situation at the open ocean beach near where I live in Vic, Aus. On big tides some rocks can show themselves on dead low, but otherwise there are none to be seen, particularly as it only works properly from about mid tide up it is most definitely a beach break. No jetties, no significant creeks. I don't know what is going on further out in deeper water, but I think more submerged rocks.
There are always sandbanks, always rips every few hundred metres at least on a beach several km long. The ever shifting nature of it means I get a lot of solo and uncrowded sessions, particularly as I am willing to settle for the b grade peaks. Downside of this place has nothing to do with the bathymetry - its too big and blown out half the time in winter and we don't really have a prevailing wind - instead weather patterns. The powerful waves usually get too bouncy when its onshore which is a frequent state of affairs.
I surfed that place in the mid 80's and it was awful so I never went back.
Where I am, most surf spots are beach breaks with tidal range maxing around 7m. The wave quality depends on sand banks (and swell quality of course) which are groomed by criteria like prevailing swell, beach direction, coastal shape, storms, bay size, beach incline etc. Some banks are fairly constant (round sheltered corners) while others shift about (open beaches). To me its a complex flux and as sand is mobile nothing is guaranteed, just more or less likely.
btw the earths crust is rocky by nature so there is always rock below sand, why would it be surprising? As the sand moves over time, various rocks can be revealed and recovered ad nauseam.
Also you can have shingle beaches as well as sand beaches.
Never forget trying a float on the end section of Gas chambers, looked down at uncovered reef for the landing which had been all sand the wave before.
Interestingly, sometimes the sand disappears and it breaks on a flat reef (sometimes dry). That is the reason I previously asked to define beachbreak. Sand may not determine whether it is or isn't one.