for a few boards that wasn't bad but so many places to go with other boards....
The right board for the right wave.
The right board for the right wave.
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What does your surfboard say about you? LOL
- Thread starter oeste858
- Start date
It's true. All the WCT men jumped ship from CI.
Couple of ladies left......although Sage just fell off tour. So maybe just Lakey left (if she gets the injury wildcard)?
Sage fell off because her boards were so sh!t
sage fell off so she could be my mistress
Picture of Chilli surfboard: you think you're in on some secret, even though none of those pros ordered or paid for those boards and all of them are switching back to meyhems, dhds, and js.
The JC made all the more incredible by the X-Trak.
This is pretty much amazing.
This is pretty much amazing.
Oh, so that's your vintage magic boar @Kento ? I have some understanding of this boar, however I am not here to take the Mickey. Instead I will back up your design choice. I still have this in size 6', photo taken yesterday. I acquired it quite cheap second hand a long time ago. It is from the era just before boars for regular size/ability people suddenly jumped up in width when the market realised the demand for crutches.
This is the Shane Dorian pro model v3. Dimensions are printed on the deck. 6' x 18.15" x 2.15", yes decimal inches which I expect is how John Carper operates the software. Quite narrow and thin with pinched rails in the mid-section and low boxy rails in the tail. This allows the ordinary surfer to ride it oversize and much longer than regular HPSB length. The narrow nose means the longer board will still pivot easily enough. It is very duck-divable too. Tail width 14", so suitable for people with shoe size 8.
It therefore made a good step up board for me. Nothing remarkable about its rocker and it has a light single concave.
As you can see from my foot marks in the wax I did not ride this board properly, but it worked very well for me. The last time I used it was about 4 years ago in largish Bells. Despite its burgery proportions Bells on a winter swell is a heavy wave carrying lots of water, I have had my most prolonged hold downs there.
The Green Room Times stereotype wouldn't fit you Kento, but has some truth for me. I am a complete has-been when it comes to large point waves. I have quit step up surfing, but I don't want to sell it.
A 6'0" is a step-up? Well, sh!t. 
Nice looking board though.
Never surfed a JC actually. Most of my boards lately (i.e, last 20+ years) have been losts or Terry Senates. That lost 6'7" roundpin is my favorite. Not sure what shop is going to do with this but I figure they'll just round off the nose:
I kinda think it's funny that my step-up will now technically be a 6'3". I probably made things worse by staying out with it busted like that but I wasn't going in without getting one of the better set lefts. Duckdiving waves did not help the structural integrity above and did not exactly slow down the yellowing. D'oh!
But hey, like I said elsewhere, went home after, washed suit out, grumbled a bit, cleared my head, and then went to local shop to get it repaired and while I was there, well, why not, what better time to order a new board! So a 6'8" roundpin with a little extra beef.
I blew it though in hindsight. In honor of this thread, I should have ordered it in an off-white/yellowish blotchy color. Next time. Also, even though I gave them dims, I realized later they never asked height/weight. Whoopsie. Well, it'll work itself out.
Nice looking board though.Never surfed a JC actually. Most of my boards lately (i.e, last 20+ years) have been losts or Terry Senates. That lost 6'7" roundpin is my favorite. Not sure what shop is going to do with this but I figure they'll just round off the nose:
I kinda think it's funny that my step-up will now technically be a 6'3". I probably made things worse by staying out with it busted like that but I wasn't going in without getting one of the better set lefts. Duckdiving waves did not help the structural integrity above and did not exactly slow down the yellowing. D'oh!
But hey, like I said elsewhere, went home after, washed suit out, grumbled a bit, cleared my head, and then went to local shop to get it repaired and while I was there, well, why not, what better time to order a new board! So a 6'8" roundpin with a little extra beef.
I blew it though in hindsight. In honor of this thread, I should have ordered it in an off-white/yellowish blotchy color. Next time. Also, even though I gave them dims, I realized later they never asked height/weight. Whoopsie. Well, it'll work itself out.
6' is 5" taller than me so does make a step up. I see Kento, SBD must have meant your board resembled the JC.A 6'0" is a step-up? Well, sh!t.
Never surfed a JC actually. Most of my boards lately (i.e, last 20+ years) have been losts or Terry Senates. That lost 6'7" roundpin is my favorite. Not sure what shop is going to do with this but I figure they'll just round off the nose:..
I kinda think it's funny that my step-up will now technically be a 6'3". I probably made things worse by staying out with it busted like that but I wasn't going in without getting one of the better set lefts. Duckdiving waves did not help the structural integrity above and did not exactly slow down the yellowing. D'oh!
But hey, like I said elsewhere, went home after, washed suit out, grumbled a bit, cleared my head, and then went to local shop to get it repaired and while I was there, well, why not, what better time to order a new board! So a 6'8" roundpin with a little extra beef.
I blew it though in hindsight. In honor of this thread, I should have ordered it in an off-white/yellowish blotchy color. Next time. Also, even though I gave them dims, I realized later they never asked height/weight. Whoopsie. Well, it'll work itself out.
I know that your last custom did not perform to expectations, some of it attributed to limited shaper communication I seem to remember. They could graft some blank offcut onto the nose of your board. However it must be possible for a shaper to understand what sort of board you need without doing a full replication. Fingers crossed that the 6' 8" order will do the job. That sounds like a step up and it seems you now surf step up conditions fairly regularly after your move north. How wide?
Gotcha! In color/wax tone, yep, there are some similarities! The funny thing with the nose of that board is that there were some historical ding repairs there that were starting to slowly suck in water anyways and they all got chopped off. They round it off, graft it, whatever, just so long as I can still surf that board. It's easily my favorite, especially for up here. Waves have a lot of push in general up here so having to generate your own speed off the drop is unnecessary. Generally, roundpins > squash.
I don't see an issue with requesting a shaper to more or less duplicate one of their own previous shapes but it feels lame to have a local shaper recreate some other shaper's work. They know the area and conditions and what works and I'll generally trust them and this shaper in particular seems to be pretty well-renowned up here.
Thanks! Dims I requested were 6'8" x 19 3/4" x 2 5/8" so a little beefier than I would get down south. Technically a stepup as my usual boards are 6'6"s. Still need to duckdive it too; I do a lot of that up here.
With that previous board, as soon as I saw the rails and felt how boxy they were, my heart sank. My quiver is depleted right now so looks like I am surfing that board for next few weeks at least; might as well. Lost about 10 pounds since last time I surfed it; maybe it will help a little, although float was not the previous issue.
if you don't get a distressed yellow spray I'm going to be really disappointed.
Don’t forget the faux tail cancer repair patches instead of carbon hits!
who the f*ck surfs backside2ft pt breaks on the forehand or bust.
pretty much nails it.
Fixed
It's no good to have it uniform, it's gotta be blotchy yellow. But that would have cost a lot more.
Maybe I can give the kids some old yellow highlighters and put them to work.
Sounds good, 19 3/4" is not too wide for step up conditions and performance. I think I am similar to you - rail height is an absolute make or break dimension that has to be got right. Too chunky a rail and I'm not going to be able to drive it hard in turns on any sort of wave with juice. Too pinched a rail and its going to be unforgiving and make me either fall off or have to surf conservatively.
Boxy Vs eggy is another matter. Nowadays tail rails are varying degrees of boxy (as in almost square in shape in the rear part of the board), I like boxy tail rails, but the overall height is more important. The mid rail section of a board is more critical to me in terms of rail height for the reasons I mentioned and I think no mid section rail is truly boxy in the part that is penetrating the water surface in a turn - but the way it blends into the deck can give the impression of boxy Vs eggy.
My local custom is the best HPSB I ever owned - local design honed by their sponsored surfer with custom dims and rail height tuned for me. Sponsored surfer recommended model "X" to me. I took my existing Chilli board in for the design consultation as a reference point of what I am comfortable with. I said that I was not looking for a replica of the Chilli, instead I was after a new design experience and wished to faithfully retain the model X design, I was however very sensitive to rail height. What the shaper did was take some precision calipers and measure the height of the rail of my Chilli at 3 points corresponding to the slices he puts into the software design - my calipers measure about 1.5" in from rail apex so I am guessing his did that. The 3 points were the mid point and 2 rear slices. The front rails were just adjusted proportionally without trying to exact match the Chilli.
The local custom design rails actually look more boxy in the mid section because they blend into the deck roll with a bit of a bevel, but actually they are not more boxy and the height is the same as my Chilli.
The shaper was clearly used to the situation of boards not turning out like the customer wanted and told me that if the shape is not what the customer imagined they can sometimes put it in the second hand rack and give a deal on another one, however the size of my board and the colours I asked for might make that a bit difficult. When I went to pick it up, I grabbed it by the mid section rails to feel the thickness and said "this is going to work". Its got quite a different rocker distribution to my Chilli, but it does perform beyond my expectations
If they haven't started your board and you didn't get a rail height measurement taken from your vintage magic boar then maybe taking it in for a rail height reference is something you could consider?
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The funny thing is the ol' 6'7" is currently at the shop getting the nose repaired by same shaper. I know he is a bit backlogged right now so plenty of opportunity to drop by the shop and mention those couple of things. I absolutely do not want to be that customer that provides input every couple days but at same time, that stuff is kind of important.Sounds good, 19 3/4" is not too wide for step up conditions and performance. I think I am similar to you - rail height is an absolute make or break dimension that has to be got right. Too chunky a rail and I'm not going to be able to drive it hard in turns on any sort of wave with juice. Too pinched a rail and its going to be unforgiving and make me either fall off or have to surf conservatively.
Boxy Vs eggy is another matter. Nowadays tail rails are varying degrees of boxy (as in almost square in shape in the rear part of the board), I like boxy tail rails, but the overall height is more important. The mid rail section of a board is more critical to me in terms of rail height for the reasons I mentioned and I think no mid section rail is truly boxy in the part that is penetrating the water surface in a turn - but the way it blends into the deck can give the impression of boxy Vs eggy.
My local custom is the best HPSB I ever owned - local design honed by their sponsored surfer with custom dims and rail height tuned for me. Sponsored surfer recommended model "X" to me. I took my existing Chilli board in for the design consultation as a reference point of what I am comfortable with. I said that I was not looking for a replica of the Chilli, instead I was after a new design experience and wished to faithfully retain the model X design, I was however very sensitive to rail height. What the shaper did was take some precision calipers and measure the height of the rail of my Chilli at 3 points corresponding to the slices he puts into the software design - my calipers measure about 1.5" in from rail apex so I am guessing his did that. The 3 points were the mid point and 2 rear slices. The front rails were just adjusted proportionally without trying to exact match the Chilli.
The local custom design rails actually look more boxy in the mid section because they blend into the deck roll with a bit of a bevel, but actually they are not more boxy and the height is the same as my Chilli.
The shaper was clearly used to the situation of boards not turning out like the customer wanted and told me that if the shape is not what the customer imagined they can sometimes put it in the second hand rack and give a deal on another one, however the size of my board and the colours I asked for might make that a bit difficult. When I went to pick it up, I grabbed it by the mid section rails to feel the thickness and said "this is going to work". Its got quite a different rocker distribution to my Chilli, but it does perform beyond my expectations
If they haven't started your board and you didn't get a rail height measurement taken from your vintage magic boar then maybe taking it in for a rail height reference is something you could consider?
Thicker boards or even boards with the rails being too thick just makes it feel like I am balancing on a log floating down a river instead of the board being an extension of your feet or better yet, your eyes. Even paddling feels weird, like plodding through the water instead of knifing through it. I had a 6'10" stepup that was really good but it sometimes felt like a little too much volume; which was why I got a scaled down 6'7" with thinner rails that I could use in identical conditions. Assuming there is a little bit of juice, It handles pretty well in everything from chest high to DOH. And I am really at the point where I do not want anything to do with TOH waves or even moreso, nothing to do with getting drilled by TOH waves.
Yep, that's a solid approach with using the Chilli as a jumping-off point. It's good information for the shaper to know your overall board preferences; everyone is different. I have an old 6'6" lost Speed Demon that has been the starting point of a lot of boards. Unfortunately, with wetsuit weight, heavy water, currents, paddling, just not a board that is suited for the average day up here as it is very low volume with a wide tail Although it is easy to duckdive!
Kento, This is what I mean by how the shaper matched rail height of my Chilli. The Chilli has more deck roll to my local custom, but the height 1.5" in is the same. My calipers measure about 1.5" in, I am not exactly sure what the shapers calipers do, but they looked similar.
Both boards are the same thickness at the stringer, so the way the deck blends into the rail is different. Because they are the same height 1.5" in, they both operate right in my comfort zone of balancing forgiveness with being able to bury it in a driving turn.
I have fairly recently come to the opinion that my step ups should either have same rail height as my HP shorty or even slightly thinner. This is based on my own design toy step up having slightly thinner rails, I used it today in open ocean juice and the extra speed I go in the more powerful waves means that the thinner rail has a similar resistance to burying as my HP at slower speeds. Do you have any opinions on this?
Both boards are the same thickness at the stringer, so the way the deck blends into the rail is different. Because they are the same height 1.5" in, they both operate right in my comfort zone of balancing forgiveness with being able to bury it in a driving turn.
I have fairly recently come to the opinion that my step ups should either have same rail height as my HP shorty or even slightly thinner. This is based on my own design toy step up having slightly thinner rails, I used it today in open ocean juice and the extra speed I go in the more powerful waves means that the thinner rail has a similar resistance to burying as my HP at slower speeds. Do you have any opinions on this?
This is my local custom next to me for size reference. 5' 6" x 18 3/8" x 2 3/16". It replaces the one with the green rail above. The green covers up a band aid buckle repair. The repair is very skillful, but the board has lost some of its response due to the change in flex, so I got a replacement made. I am keeping the repaired one as a backup in case my new one is dry docked for repair.
The person who took the replacement order was not the shaper. The board is on file so no need for another design consultation. The order said "Please make with exactly the same file as last custom. Do not change anything, loved it as was!!!"
The person who took the replacement order was not the shaper. The board is on file so no need for another design consultation. The order said "Please make with exactly the same file as last custom. Do not change anything, loved it as was!!!"
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I'm no expert on design whatsoever but seems like with the extra speed, you have greater relative forgiveness just so long as there is just enough board volume and fin hold to keep you from spinning out. Not having the extra rail volume, it's more like a slice through the wave than a big drawn out turn. Plus, haha, it takes a lot less leg strength to get a lower volume and thinner rail board to turn hard. Maintaining a long arc though is harder; trade-off. That 6'6" speed demon I have, have to consciously draw a longer turn instead of just cranking it around because roundhouses never end up getting below the top 1/3 of the wave. Which can be its own fun.
Looks like the deck is a little scooped out towards the nose on the Chilli; probably makes it easier to also arc around without as much forward volume towards the nose. Maybe that's one of the things that bothers me about the more recent new board; a lot of volume towards the nose; bothersome for some reason when paddling into waves; feels like it sticks instead of scythes through. Oh well; that and the lost are all I really have for time being so, well, run what you brung I guess.
Having boards drydocked is also why I like to have at least semi-cloned backups. Even better if you have the exact shape on file!
Looks like the deck is a little scooped out towards the nose on the Chilli; probably makes it easier to also arc around without as much forward volume towards the nose. Maybe that's one of the things that bothers me about the more recent new board; a lot of volume towards the nose; bothersome for some reason when paddling into waves; feels like it sticks instead of scythes through. Oh well; that and the lost are all I really have for time being so, well, run what you brung I guess.
Having boards drydocked is also why I like to have at least semi-cloned backups. Even better if you have the exact shape on file!
That is observant of you Kento, the Chilli does indeed have more foam removed from the deck nose section than my local custom. Its actually fairly pronounced by any standards. The apex of the nose rails were kept high despite the deck being lowered, so the board does not catch in turns. The weight of the foam removed must be tiny though. I prefer the volume distribution of my local custom and it catches waves a tad better, however that might be the rocker and maybe my individual preference. As a generalisation the Chilli is a high nose rocker/low tail rocker board, my local custom is the opposite. The Chilli is a better groveller whereas the local custom has a bit more performance and handles steeper/more powerful waves better.
I don't have all the answers with what makes boards work for me, my 2019 build went surprisingly badly despite seeming sensible on paper.
If you think a large part of why your latest custom doesn't work is the rails, then it is a good opportunity having your favourite boar in for repair at the factory to get a rail reference. That's not overdoing the customer input in my opinion, however you would know the situation best.
I don't have all the answers with what makes boards work for me, my 2019 build went surprisingly badly despite seeming sensible on paper.
If you think a large part of why your latest custom doesn't work is the rails, then it is a good opportunity having your favourite boar in for repair at the factory to get a rail reference. That's not overdoing the customer input in my opinion, however you would know the situation best.
JC Surfboard 5’8” - sporting goods - by owner - sale
JC Sting Ray Surfboard Size 5’8” Color white Pre-owned
sfbay.craigslist.org
own a piece of history?