What board do you ride this day?

surfysurfy1476

Nep status
Jan 27, 2018
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Age/Height/Weight and what board with what fin setup?

[video:youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_msRXflOfWw[/video]
 

Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
24,904
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San Francisco, CA
surfy1476 said:
Set waves.

Mr Doof said:
Stretch 2x4
Dims, tail, fins?
I confessed I only looked at the first and second wave and thought, "Yeah, I could totally do that on the 6'8" 2x4 I have."

Now that you made me look at the rest of it, I think I'd like my Terry Chun or Campbell Brothers 7'6".
 

Duffy LaCoronilla

Duke status
Apr 27, 2016
39,074
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Height - 6’1
Weight - 185
Age - 47

Choosing from I currently have I’d ride either a 6’5 CI Fort Knox round tail or a 6’8 CI K Step.

Probably the KStep.

I’d use AM fins, large. (G AM on the step and AM 2 on the Knox).

If the crowd started frustrating me I’d break out a bigger board or maybe my 5’8 twin keel skinny fish.

Would love to use my 5’8 Wizard Sleeve (quad) but I’d have to get more paddle fit first I’d imagine.
 

surfysurfy1476

Nep status
Jan 27, 2018
907
231
43
Mr Doof said:
surfy1476 said:
Set waves.

Mr Doof said:
Stretch 2x4
Dims, tail, fins?
I confessed I only looked at the first and second wave and thought, "Yeah, I could totally do that on the 6'8" 2x4 I have."

Now that you made me look at the rest of it, I think I'd like my Terry Chun or Campbell Brothers 7'6".
I think you could do the 6'8" the drop looks relatively mellow.

Duffy said:
Height - 6’1
Weight - 185
Age - 47

Choosing from I currently have I’d ride either a 6’5 CI Fort Knox round tail or a 6’8 CI K Step.

Probably the KStep.

I’d use AM fins, large. (G AM on the step and AM 2 on the Knox).

If the crowd started frustrating me I’d break out a bigger board or maybe my 5’8 twin keel skinny fish.

Would love to use my 5’8 Wizard Sleeve (quad) but I’d have to get more paddle fit first I’d imagine.
K step would be up excellent. I stopped ordering them though because they don't seem to catch waves all that well.
 

Duffy LaCoronilla

Duke status
Apr 27, 2016
39,074
28,576
113
surfy1476 said:
Mr Doof said:
surfy1476 said:
Set waves.

Mr Doof said:
Stretch 2x4
Dims, tail, fins?
I confessed I only looked at the first and second wave and thought, "Yeah, I could totally do that on the 6'8" 2x4 I have."

Now that you made me look at the rest of it, I think I'd like my Terry Chun or Campbell Brothers 7'6".
I think you could do the 6'8" the drop looks relatively mellow.

Duffy said:
Height - 6’1
Weight - 185
Age - 47

Choosing from I currently have I’d ride either a 6’5 CI Fort Knox round tail or a 6’8 CI K Step.

Probably the KStep.

I’d use AM fins, large. (G AM on the step and AM 2 on the Knox).

If the crowd started frustrating me I’d break out a bigger board or maybe my 5’8 twin keel skinny fish.

Would love to use my 5’8 Wizard Sleeve (quad) but I’d have to get more paddle fit first I’d imagine.
K step would be up excellent. I stopped ordering them though because they don't seem to catch waves all that well.
Yeah, my smaller Fort Knox catches waves better. It’s actually slightly higher in volume even though it’s the same width and thickness and 3 inches shorter than the KStep.

I just think I’d rather be riding the KStep on those waves.
 

GromsDad

Duke status
Jan 21, 2014
54,644
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West of the Atlantic. East of the ICW.
A little over a year ago I was in California and got Lowers breaking very similar to what's in that video. I took out my daily driver which is a 6'5. The problem wasn't riding waves. The problem was that there were a lot of guys riding much much bigger boards and there was no way to compete with their paddling advantage. Determined to get a bomb set at the peak I fought the crowd of guys on 8'+ boards for about 45 minutes before finally sneaking under one of these guys. Spent most of the day sitting further in getting scraps. Just a strange scene there when it was that big.......guys on guns wearing full suits with hoods boots and gloves and here I am on a regular short board and just fine in a 3/2. Water was probably 62.

A good surfer could make just about any board work in the conditions in that video. Nice slopey and predictable takeoff and plenty of push.

I'm 48. 6'1 and 210. My shortboards are 6'4 to 6'6 and I've gone thicker and wider as I've gotten older. When the waves are good I will revert to some of my older boards that are thinner and narrower than my daily drivers which are made for typical shitty east coast beach break.
 

Senor Sopa

Billy Hamilton status
Mar 11, 2015
1,374
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Ponto
casa_mugrienta said:
Are you planning on catching set waves or scraps?
Good point. That particular spot isn't known for being super sketchy or gnarly, just perfect. All boards work there.

I would just ride what I ride everyday. For me, that would be a 9' HP longboard.
 

GWS

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
42,605
21
0
done
Sharkbiscuit said:
GromsDad said:
I was in California and got Lowers breaking very similar to what's in that video.
brakes feelin' squishy...
lol.

No.

That wave... let's just say some of you are underestimating it judging by some of the alleged board choices. Trestles has never broken like that. Ever.
 

casa_mugrienta

Duke status
Apr 13, 2008
43,578
18,043
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Petak Island
I'm 5'8 and 147 lbs. 33 y/o.

I have never surfed the wave in question. I have never been to Hawaii.

That said, if I was standing in the parking lot, the following thoughts would be going through my head, in this order.

a) There's a few smaller scrap waves coming through. If I want to limit myself to those I could ride on my standard good waves HPSB. (5'8 x 18 1/4 x 2 1/4...23.5 liters) but it might be a little too sensitive still for that kind of power. It would work excellent for the wave @ 0:26, but otherwise not so much.

b) If I rode that board I would spend my time sitting inside getting pounded and tossed around like a fart as the actual set waves rolled through

c) There's a lot of water moving behind that wave, despite the fact it's a roll in. I'm going to need some length to catch the good ones, not to mention if I have had a chance at the biggest of the set waves (I wouldn't).

d) I'm going to need some hold and some rail, because when it goes top to bottom it's pitching out pretty far with a lot of thickness pushing behind it, a rolling pitch too with a lot of energy, not some popup slab.



So I'm saying I'd need at least something in the 6'2 range and quite possibly bigger.
 

chrispalmer

Billy Hamilton status
Dec 1, 2008
1,653
2
38
GWS said:
Sharkbiscuit said:
GromsDad said:
I was in California and got Lowers breaking very similar to what's in that video.
brakes feelin' squishy...
lol.

No.

That wave... let's just say some of you are underestimating it judging by some of the alleged board choices. Trestles has never broken like that. Ever.
:roflmao:
 

GromsDad

Duke status
Jan 21, 2014
54,644
16,500
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West of the Atlantic. East of the ICW.
casa_mugrienta said:
GromsDad said:
A little over a year ago I was in California and got Lowers breaking very similar to what's in that video.
I'm sorry but I don't believe this is true.
Dig back through the Surfline /Surfer archives and look for the swell that hit California the first and second week of November 2016. Think the bigest day of the swell was the 9th or 10th. Lowers was solid double overhead with occasional much bigger sets. Had a number of regulars tell me I’d gotten very lucky because it so rarely gets like that there. It was by far the biggest and best I’ve gotten it and connecting for hundreds of yards.