Under the wave at Waimea

2surf

Duke status
Apr 12, 2004
15,284
2,053
113
California USA
www.allcare.com
I love reading stuff by Chas Smith in Beach Grit. This is an excerpt from his inspired review.

Epiphany.

Real surfers, those who have actually sacrificed their lives for surf, are, by and large, illiterate and by “illiterate” I don’t mean “can’t read.” I mean we live our lives in the millisecond, paddling, popping, pumping, maybe a bottom turn, maybe a top turn, maybe a sneaky barrel, maybe a kick-out air.
All forgotten, every bit of it forgotten, as we paddle back out.
And back out.
And back out.
And back out.
Impermanence is the very core of illiteracy
 

Autoprax

Duke status
Jan 24, 2011
68,237
22,990
113
62
Vagina Point
The correct term for what Chaz is talking about is "a-literate."

But maybe he is an illiterate illiterate surfer?