I love reading stuff by Chas Smith in Beach Grit. This is an excerpt from his inspired review.
Epiphany.
Real surfers, those who have actually sacrificed their lives for surf, are, by and large, illiterate and by “illiterate” I don’t mean “can’t read.” I mean we live our lives in the millisecond, paddling, popping, pumping, maybe a bottom turn, maybe a top turn, maybe a sneaky barrel, maybe a kick-out air.
All forgotten, every bit of it forgotten, as we paddle back out.
And back out.
And back out.
And back out.
Impermanence is the very core of illiteracy
Epiphany.
Real surfers, those who have actually sacrificed their lives for surf, are, by and large, illiterate and by “illiterate” I don’t mean “can’t read.” I mean we live our lives in the millisecond, paddling, popping, pumping, maybe a bottom turn, maybe a top turn, maybe a sneaky barrel, maybe a kick-out air.
All forgotten, every bit of it forgotten, as we paddle back out.
And back out.
And back out.
And back out.
Impermanence is the very core of illiteracy