Twinzer Feedback?

[One-Off]

The lamination on this board:
Deck- 4 oz.biaxial basalt stops at the tuck
Bottom- 4oz basalt with short lap
Bottom cap-2 oz E with 2oz butterfly fin patch long laps
Top cap- 2 oz E no lap
Trying to keep the "bulk" to a minimum

6 oz total glass? WHat density foam. Even if basalt is like s-glass that's a really light glass job. I used 2 oz over innegra and even though I bagged the lam and it came out very tight, when sanding i went through the 2oz in spots in a heartbeat. It's almost like a sacrificial layer unless you're rally good at laminating.

Your boards (sans fins) must be 5 lbs or sub 5 lbs ?

 

[need 4 speed]

6 oz total glass? WHat density foam. Even if basalt is like s-glass that's a really light glass job. I used 2 oz over innegra and even though I bagged the lam and it came out very tight, when sanding i went through the 2oz in spots in a heartbeat. It's almost like a sacrificial layer unless you're rally good at laminating.

Your boards (sans fins) must be 5 lbs or sub 5 lbs ?

6.5ish
The basalt feels physically heavier to me compared 4oz S or E. The biaxial for sure (the glass shop owner agrees) and you have to work hard to squeegee out "excess" resin. I do the 2oz as a second lamination because I want it to cover the cut lap basalt.The blanks are 1.7lb with cedar stringer. They feel solid, but time will tell

 

[Retropete]

You guys have probably seen this but I'll post it just in case someone finds it useful.
It's from the Hanalei website.

HANALEI FINS - LAYOUT GUIDES

Downloadable PDF files on all of our current LAYOUT GUIDES

hanalei-fins.surf

 

[One-Off]

You guys have probably seen this but I'll post it just in case someone finds it useful.
It's from the Hanalei website.

HANALEI FINS - LAYOUT GUIDES

Downloadable PDF files on all of our current LAYOUT GUIDES

hanalei-fins.surf

"...a starting point."

9" up seems kind of far up for a shortboard, although Jobson used 8-1/2" or 8-3/4" from what I can gather. I used less than that on a 7'-6". Also 3/4" overlap seems like a lot. Especially since most use a fin even bigger that 4.5" Also no gap measurement (distance between inside face of fins). But it is a start...

 

[One-Off]

GG would not approve(but his influence is heavy)Prepping the bottom for hot coat show a little better. I first tried this on the 6-2 bat tail and loved it. Subtle single to vee, then I put in double into the vee panel(to maintain rail line) narrowing through the fins. Trying to get away from channels but still retain some of the positive benefits. A bit inspired by @Pyzelsurfboards discussion I moved the wide point 1" back of center(but maintained foil/foam distribution) domed the decks and pinched the rails. No speed edge on these.
View attachment 154427

Another question for you and the erBB brain trust.

I just did the bottom contours on the "Happy Medium." The fairly deep double concaves, combined with vee makes the hump in the middle pretty pronounced. Your hump looks sharp. Mine is rounded. As I ran my hand over the bottom, imagining the flow of water, there were two thoughts that came across my mind- one, keep the bump rounded and subtle to promote easy flow over it, keeping the water attached. Or two, make the bump sharp and abrupt to channel the water.

If the water is going more fore to aft, the sharp bump/channel makes sense. If the water is crossing the board at more of an angle, then the water will detach and cause turbulance. But my intuition tells me that the water is flowing more fore aft favoring a channeling effect. I know the Campbell brother's bonzer bottoms have a pretty pronounced, though not sharp, spine. I'm thinking of heading in that direction. Kind of a bonzer bottom twinzer.

 

[need 4 speed]

Kind of a bonzer bottom twinzer.

In (but not too extreme) I've seen Stu do some as well
I rode my 6-2 in some pretty decent waves over the weekend, felt like a rocket ship off the bottom and really solid

 

[One-Off]

In (but not too extreme)

In?

 

[need 4 speed]

Meaning I like the Bonzer bottom on a twinzer. On a side note(not that it matters) I see plenty of pro boards at the glass shop I do my boards. Nothing extreme on any of them

 

[ghostshaper]

I've ridden a double inside a deep single (not mine). The board felt really small to me.

I also rode MC's huge single concave, the same time I rode GG's flat bottom. Both worked for me.

 

[One-Off]

Single to vee with inset doubles to accelerated vee after fins. The contours look much more extreme under the shaping lights than they feel. Single under front foot, doubles under back foot, the transition of single to vee right between the feet (that flat spot I spoke of earlier).

You can see the 6-6 x 20-1/4 template outline and a 6-4 x 19-1/2 line just inside. Should I be optimistic (about my aging body's abilities) or realistic?

I'm going to bag on the bottom skin before doing any other shaping ( I have not cut the outline nor touched the deck) to try and hold rocker in the stringerless blank under bagging pressure. Right now it's nose 4-1/4, tail 2-1/4 ( 2-1/2 at swallow tips). Oh, and because I put skins on I sand with 60 grit and leave it at that for mechanical adhesion.

 

[need 4 speed]

Realistic (but you ride way less volume than me) So the double fades to straight vee off the tail?

 

[One-Off]

Realistic (but you ride way less volume than me) So the double fades to straight vee off the tail?

Straight vee behind the tail, but the end of the double peeks into the panel a wee bit. If you look closely at the second photo above you can see the shaper's marks for the main fins at 7-1/4". In the photo they look way up. Iphone distortion.

In the bag. This is a critical moment for a stringerless board with no rocker table. I pulled initial vacuum and checked the rocker and it had added about 1/2" on both ends (I had put a block under it in the middle) . Release vac, remove block, pull the bag smooth, pull vac again, check rocker. Nose and tail OK, but numbers still high at both ends at 6" and 12". Add weights. Check rocker. All good. Time to eat lunch and check again. For this part of the build I use RR Slow, so 6 hours before full cure, maybe a tad more because of the cool temps today.

Notes with rocker numbers.





This wood must be more porous than others I've used because it's 80% infused after 15 minutes (the resin has pulled through the veneer). Maybe I can do away with outer glass?

 

[ghostshaper]

Straight vee behind the tail, but the end of the double peeks into the panel a wee bit. If you look closely at the second photo above you can see the shaper's marks for the main fins at 7-1/4". In the photo they look way up. Iphone distortion.

In the bag. This is a critical moment for a stringerless board with no rocker table. I pulled initial vacuum and checked the rocker and it had added about 1/2" on both ends (I had put a block under it in the middle) . Release vac, remove block, pull the bag smooth, pull vac again, check rocker. Nose and tail OK, but numbers still high at both ends at 6" and 12". Add weights. Check rocker. All good. Time to eat lunch and check again. For this part of the build I use RR Slow, so 6 hours before full cure, maybe a tad more because of the cool temps today.

Notes with rocker numbers.

View attachment 155163



This wood must be more porous than others I've used because it's 80% infused after 15 minutes (the resin has pulled through the veneer). Maybe I can do away with outer glass?

View attachment 155165

If you're making the same size boards or at least w a similar rocker profile, you can cut yourself a rocker stick to put in the bag.

If you can seal your blank before you bag the skin, then yeah no glass over. Think about how much time and headache it'll save you not to hotcoat/sand. I used to seal/paint w acrylic mixed w epoxy, but I wasn't bagging w wood veneer.

 

[jkb]

Straight vee behind the tail, but the end of the double peeks into the panel a wee bit. If you look closely at the second photo above you can see the shaper's marks for the main fins at 7-1/4". In the photo they look way up. Iphone distortion.

In the bag. This is a critical moment for a stringerless board with no rocker table. I pulled initial vacuum and checked the rocker and it had added about 1/2" on both ends (I had put a block under it in the middle) . Release vac, remove block, pull the bag smooth, pull vac again, check rocker. Nose and tail OK, but numbers still high at both ends at 6" and 12". Add weights. Check rocker. All good. Time to eat lunch and check again. For this part of the build I use RR Slow, so 6 hours before full cure, maybe a tad more because of the cool temps today.

Notes with rocker numbers.

View attachment 155163



This wood must be more porous than others I've used because it's 80% infused after 15 minutes (the resin has pulled through the veneer). Maybe I can do away with outer glass?

View attachment 155165

Socks and Sandals?

 

[surfadelphia]

Socks and Sandals?

Costco socks and sandals

 

[One-Off]

Costco socks and sandals

Dayum. Forgot about the erBB fashion police. You cannot let your guard down for a second. I've already been called out for having my boxers briefs showing. Good thing you guys can't see my haircut (or lack of) right now.

 

[surfadelphia]

Dayum. Forgot about the erBB fashion police. You cannot let your guard down for a second. I've already been called out for having my boxers briefs showing. Good thing you guys can't see my haircut (or lack of) right now.

Shiiiit, 90% of my socks are white costcos

 

[One-Off]

I just cut out the outline out of the blank with the bottom wood skin bagged on. I always check for strength properties with the off cuts. I've never had wood this resilient. All the wood species I've used in the past would bend ...but eventually reach a breaking point. This stuff (red oak) is like rubber. Not sure what will happen to the board's flex.

 

[ghostshaper]

I just the outline out of the blank with the bottom wood skin bagged on. I always check for strength properties with the off cuts. I've never had wood this resilient. All the wood species I've used in the past would bend ...but eventually reach a breaking point. This stuff (red oak) is like rubber. Not sure what will happen to the board's flex.

View attachment 155402

Stretch would lam the rails to lock in the rocker before bagging the skins on.

 

[One-Off]

Stretch would lam the rails to lock in the rocker before bagging the skins on.

My rocker stayed at what I was aiming for 4-1/2 nose, 2-1/4 tail.

What kind fo skins was Stretch using?