Thx-I was thinking the same due to the forward placement.Dealer's choice. Big fin, might be sticky. But Mabile is probably up above 8", could be just right to take out a little of the loosey goosey. Looks like a blast
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Twinzer Feedback?
- Thread starter spjones123
- Start date
sent this to the cutter and ordered some more basalt
I just picked up a used kenson off board source (first time getting a board through them so we will see how it goes). At 170lbs would yall recommend his large fin template? I typically err towards more fin than less and like the feel of a quad more than a twin but wanted to try this out and don't know where to start.
theboardsource.com
6' x 20 1/2 x 2 11/16 Stu Kenson "Twinzer" Shortboard Surfboard - The Board Source
This board is in great condition with mild to moderate pressures and a couple of tiny professionally fixed dings. A couple of very small cosmetic (watertight) surface cracks near the nose and tail. Fins, leashes, traction, board bags, and any other accessories are available at a discount with...
theboardsource.com
Yes
Look at these too
www.boardcave.com
captainfin.com
Look at these too
FUTURES EN TWIN FIN - For Sale - Best Price Guarantee | Boardcave USA
The EN Twin are really versatile fins for any surf conditions and suits all boards with twinny set ups. These fins have lots of drive which comes from the fiberglass material combined with the wide base and extra height.
www.boardcave.com
Troy Elmore Twin - Brown - Single Tab
The Troy Elmore Twin was designed to complement Troy's line of twins for lightning fast, reactive surfing. This upright template with a moderate base will zip down the line and react quickly.
captainfin.com
I recommend going with the standard ( large set from NVS fins) . The smaller set is designed for smaller boards and those that weigh 145 lbs. or less
Anyone tried a twin fin set-up with the little twinzer fins further back in a quad fin set-up? The shaper of one of the boards I have on order messaged to say that he put them as trailing fin instead of twinzers. He said he would re-do the board, so no worries there, but is this a set-up that would work?
Your slot is much wider than what I use- 1-5/8 vs 1-1/8. Also more overlap- up to 5/8? Did you always use a wide gap? Is there a difference in feel? I wouldn't mind a wider gap so I can use 4 FCS II boxes instead of the cut fusions, then I can play around with fin positions with g-10 fins. Alos on one of your recent builds there was no overlap, unless I read the photo wrong.
After a really good session today at my local (yeah I'm mentioning it in every post I make right now
...it's been so long, I almost forgot what real surfing is like), I'm planning a new board for the spot. It's considered a longboard spot but today I was on my 7-4 swooping. My 7-4 is a 2+1. I'm thinking of making a 7-6 or 7-8 twinzer. I have a 8-3 twinzer that is my normal go to for the spot, but now that I can avoid weekends I think I'm going to design the board for the wave, not the crowd. I'm trying to figure out how to scale up the twinzer fin settings for a longer board. The 8-3 is at 9" and is extremely fast but has moments of loosey goosey (could also be the AM templates which are relatively small). I also measured the cant the other day and the mains were at 6 and the canards were at 12.
. They are the Griffin fins from a five fin set and he made them so you can change the cant (the tabs are tapered and to increase cant you add a little shim to the outboard edge of the tab). I must have liked them at 12. I might try putting them in without the shims and see what it feels like (I'm guessing without the shims the cant will be 8).ps I'm beginning to question the FCSII system because of having the set screws on two sides. I notice when I tighten the back screw the cant increases and then when I tighten the front screw it takes some of the cant out.
pls does anyone think that the center fin causes a board to get a little tracky at the end of a cutback?
The 1 5/8" is distance from rail, the slot between the the main and canard is about 1 1/8" or so. The gap or distance between the main and the trailing edge of the canard is 3/16-5/8"
Oh, so no overlap at all, but rather a gap. Why?The 1 5/8" is distance from rail, the slot between the the main and canard is about 1 1/8" or so. The gap or distance between the main and the trailing edge of the canard is 3/16-5/8"
Overlap is a misconception of the concept.
Wil told me to increase the gap as speed increases (from larger surf). I assume it's bc the water flow is faster and would hit past the main fin if you keep the same gap as for small surf.
In trying bigger canards, they loosened the board too much. I reasoned it was due to the smaller gap, even though fin SA increased.
Regarding cant, my magic board started w 4 degrees in the mains, was too loose, so I found 2 degrees made it perfect for me. I never felt a difference in canard cant (and I tried several, including negative cant) from breaking out C5 boxes and not being able to set the new boxes at the same angle (and from trying many different canards).
Wil told me to increase the gap as speed increases (from larger surf). I assume it's bc the water flow is faster and would hit past the main fin if you keep the same gap as for small surf.
In trying bigger canards, they loosened the board too much. I reasoned it was due to the smaller gap, even though fin SA increased.
Regarding cant, my magic board started w 4 degrees in the mains, was too loose, so I found 2 degrees made it perfect for me. I never felt a difference in canard cant (and I tried several, including negative cant) from breaking out C5 boxes and not being able to set the new boxes at the same angle (and from trying many different canards).
That‘s interesting regarding cant. I don’t think Futures makes a twin with anything even close to 4 degrees let alone 2. I think most are over 6 degrees.
Are you toeing in the mains, @ghostshaper?
Are you toeing in the mains, @ghostshaper?
Thank you E for responding. The reason I "changed" direction in canard placement was from the water hose test I did a while back. I posted it on my IG story and talked a great length with GG about my results. He was not convinced my test was valid, but what I saw was enough to make me change.Vince Broglio, who you know worked with Wil, gaps farther than I do on the boards that I've seen
Just to be clear, by gap I mean the parallel distance of the inside faces of the fins, by over lap the ditance of the front edge of the main and the trialing edge of canard.
I can see how you can open the gap at higher speeds.
The fins I made/make have a tapered tab. So the board I just made now has 5 and 8 but can be reduced to about 2 and 5.
I'm assuming you guys all know Griffin's tapered tab cant adjustment trick.
What are your canards set at? 2 also?
By the way, thanks to you and n4s for all the twinzer advice. I'm always making all different kinds and sizes of boards so do not benefit from the highly focused iterative process you guys seem to have.
Vince is in an area w way more power (and speed) than what we have down here. Makes sense that he wants to spread the cluster.
I was using 4wfs, so I think the max cant disc was 8 degrees. Again, all my testing on wils board was a result of broken boxes and losing canards.
The bottom line is that you can make a twinzer feel as solid as you want it to feel. The design doesn't have to be slidey like a twin. But it should be fast. Same advantage as twins in weak surf or fast down the line waves.
Ask any shaper why they overlap the canards.
I was using 4wfs, so I think the max cant disc was 8 degrees. Again, all my testing on wils board was a result of broken boxes and losing canards.
The bottom line is that you can make a twinzer feel as solid as you want it to feel. The design doesn't have to be slidey like a twin. But it should be fast. Same advantage as twins in weak surf or fast down the line waves.
Ask any shaper why they overlap the canards.
@One-Off I reposted the vid on my story if you want to check it out. I recommend doing it for yourself too, it's a good visual
Ask any shaper why they overlap the canards= monkey see/ monkey do
Highly doubtful many are doing much/any experimenting (some have been doing
twinzers for a long time and have their spot)
Ask any shaper why they overlap the canards= monkey see/ monkey do
Highly doubtful many are doing much/any experimenting (some have been doing
twinzers for a long time and have their spot)
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yeah, but only about 1/8-1/16", depending on the length of the board.