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The Official OBSF Support Group
- Thread starter bluengreen
- Start date
I had a sneaky 130pm session for a few hours between Moraga and Noriega. How was Kelly's?
Who's paddling the beach tomorrow? I'm eyeing a late morning window (9:00-11:00), if anyone wants some courage in numbers.
Will also be checking spots tomorrow morning. Mid week so probably minimal crowds. Always an interesting paddle if I'm the only one at a spot. 
With light offshore winds, Mavericks could have all time conditions tomorrow.
With light offshore winds, Mavericks could have all time conditions tomorrow.
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Will be interested to see if this one lives up to the hype. The SE papa buoy is ripping right now.
www.ndbc.noaa.gov
Will definitely be checking it tomorrow am to see how clean/organized it is.
Wed is looking like the more interesting day but only time will tell on how long the size lingers around. Wind on Tuesday not looking fantastic according to Surfline.
NDBC - Station 46006 Recent Data
National Data Buoy Center - Recent observations from buoy 46006 (40.764N 137.377W) - SOUTHEAST PAPA - 600NM West of Eureka, CA.
Will definitely be checking it tomorrow am to see how clean/organized it is.
Wed is looking like the more interesting day but only time will tell on how long the size lingers around. Wind on Tuesday not looking fantastic according to Surfline.
I will not be surfing OB today.
I did surf it yesterday. On a longboard. Leashless. It was pretty fun taking some sleigh rides from the outer bar until it completely mushed out before the shorebreak.
I did surf it yesterday. On a longboard. Leashless. It was pretty fun taking some sleigh rides from the outer bar until it completely mushed out before the shorebreak.
Yesterday looked fun.
Parked outside a house on Ortega while my wife did a tour of a rental.
Waves were small and clean.
Different story this morning.
A few less people on it. Less twin fins and eggs...
Saw some photo crews are in town for it this week.
Mavs crews are zipping around for some early ones.
Some folks are gonna score.
I did a solo drive by yesterday to get out of the house.
Parked outside a house on Ortega while my wife did a tour of a rental.
Waves were small and clean.
Different story this morning.
A few less people on it. Less twin fins and eggs...
Saw some photo crews are in town for it this week.
Mavs crews are zipping around for some early ones.
Some folks are gonna score.
4th in the water, 3rd one out.
4-6 layers of white water to get through when sets come in.
Long period energy felt even in smaller waves.
On the inside, pulled north, then at the cruncher spot on the inside, was pushed south.
Had to bail a few times to get through that demarcation that is the transition zone, but then easy, but long, paddle to outside.
Got cleaned up as I was almost outside, but only had to deal with one wave, which means maybe the universe loves me after all.
Then was in the clear and wow, the super pretty sunrise that earlier had a vermillion low cloud out by Pt Reyes (sort of looked like an intense aurora) had morphed to golden clouds with bright blue sky. The blue sky was edging towards the shocking blue of a morning sunrise after a night rain, but that chroma faded quick.
Paddling north to fight mild current and try for a few, but am too far out. Knowing if I paddle in, I'll get steamrolled, but if I stay way outside, will miss more because of difficulty staying close enough to the peak. This is more on me though and fitness related.
Then out of nowhere, get cleaned up. This time, 2 waves got me. Wasn't I far enough out?
Partially back outside, spin and get a smaller one, the ice breaker I wish I had caught right off the bat.
On way out, see other riders score. That fires me right up, I paddle to the edge of the foamy water, a set comes in, am close to being able to get a good roll-in and.....I flub it on the drop. I was too far up on the board.
Rest of set doesn't get me.
Long wait, then paddle for a few, don't catch any, and then find I am not really in great position for next set as I had drifted into the rip, but manage to catch a rip peak wave, bouncy drop, and more ramp than curl. At the bottom, a carving turn, see that it is all going to section, look over my shoulder and yep, closed out behind me too. So straight in. Manage to go long ways before getting bucked off, but then catch a late drop inside bar cruncher with a two stroke paddle coupled with the whitewater shove.
On shore I look back and think, "I really should have caught that first wave soon or fell on the first wave because that isn't all that big."
At the car, rethink that last thought about the size thing, and understand I am already trying to talk myself into doing better next time....hopefully will be able to "surf the talk" once I am out there and not just while I am on land.
PS
Spoke with Friend #1 previous night. He said he did the evening glass off, which wasn't as glassy as the name implies. Longboarded it. A few good waves, lots of hunting down the peaks versus waiting for them to come to him. Took a spill on shoulder/headhigh wave and said he was rolled around on the bottom for a while. "That tells me the long period stuff is already here".
PPS from Friend #1 10 minutes ago
4-6 layers of white water to get through when sets come in.
Long period energy felt even in smaller waves.
On the inside, pulled north, then at the cruncher spot on the inside, was pushed south.
Had to bail a few times to get through that demarcation that is the transition zone, but then easy, but long, paddle to outside.
Got cleaned up as I was almost outside, but only had to deal with one wave, which means maybe the universe loves me after all.
Then was in the clear and wow, the super pretty sunrise that earlier had a vermillion low cloud out by Pt Reyes (sort of looked like an intense aurora) had morphed to golden clouds with bright blue sky. The blue sky was edging towards the shocking blue of a morning sunrise after a night rain, but that chroma faded quick.
Paddling north to fight mild current and try for a few, but am too far out. Knowing if I paddle in, I'll get steamrolled, but if I stay way outside, will miss more because of difficulty staying close enough to the peak. This is more on me though and fitness related.
Then out of nowhere, get cleaned up. This time, 2 waves got me. Wasn't I far enough out?
Partially back outside, spin and get a smaller one, the ice breaker I wish I had caught right off the bat.
On way out, see other riders score. That fires me right up, I paddle to the edge of the foamy water, a set comes in, am close to being able to get a good roll-in and.....I flub it on the drop. I was too far up on the board.
Rest of set doesn't get me.
Long wait, then paddle for a few, don't catch any, and then find I am not really in great position for next set as I had drifted into the rip, but manage to catch a rip peak wave, bouncy drop, and more ramp than curl. At the bottom, a carving turn, see that it is all going to section, look over my shoulder and yep, closed out behind me too. So straight in. Manage to go long ways before getting bucked off, but then catch a late drop inside bar cruncher with a two stroke paddle coupled with the whitewater shove.
On shore I look back and think, "I really should have caught that first wave soon or fell on the first wave because that isn't all that big."
At the car, rethink that last thought about the size thing, and understand I am already trying to talk myself into doing better next time....hopefully will be able to "surf the talk" once I am out there and not just while I am on land.
PS
Spoke with Friend #1 previous night. He said he did the evening glass off, which wasn't as glassy as the name implies. Longboarded it. A few good waves, lots of hunting down the peaks versus waiting for them to come to him. Took a spill on shoulder/headhigh wave and said he was rolled around on the bottom for a while. "That tells me the long period stuff is already here".
PPS from Friend #1 10 minutes ago
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Surfed this am around 9. Pumping for sure. Fairly easy paddle but almost got cleaned up on the outside. Got sucked south pretty quick and paddled back up towards Lawton/Kirkham. Pretty crowded out there. Good but not a classic, great OB day.
Caught a few good ones (two lefts, one right). Started to get pretty tall and tough to get in with the variable/offshore winds. As soon as it started capping on the outer outer bars I knew it was time to go in. I was already moderately under-gunned on my 8'0.
The rest of the week should be very very fun for the 8'0 crowd if the size holds and the 7'0 crowd if it dies down.
Caught a few good ones (two lefts, one right). Started to get pretty tall and tough to get in with the variable/offshore winds. As soon as it started capping on the outer outer bars I knew it was time to go in. I was already moderately under-gunned on my 8'0.
The rest of the week should be very very fun for the 8'0 crowd if the size holds and the 7'0 crowd if it dies down.
Wife was kind enough to drop off both kids this morning, while I took an early meeting and then cranked some work out from home. Eyed the cams as the swell kept building. Once work was done, I had a two hour window to surf and drive to work.
Fuck it. Threw my sh!t in the car and went straight to Lawton around 10:30. Suited up, waxed up, walked to the top of the dune to find a way out. Waves were starting to cap on the outer outer outer bars a mile out to sea. Maxing (3 times overhead easy), clean A-frames all up and down the beach. Paddle was abusive. Can't really duck dive this 8'6 Hess, so just charged my way through a lot of heavy white water. Thought I might not get out after about 20 minutes, but suddenly the ocean backed off and I sprinted into deep water. Inner bar current was ripping super hard north, so I ended up getting outside at Lincoln (0.7 miles traveled, according to Google Maps).
Huge lumps of water out there. Paused for a couple minutes for some Wim-Hoff breathing, then started working my way south. Took 30 minutes of paddling to finally get into position on a proper bowl around Lawton. Kept edging into position, until a bomb came my way. Left. Head down, going hard. Long, steep drop, bottom turn into the hook, stand tall and look back into the grinding maw a few feet behind me. Get low, trying to stall. No vision, but I can feel myself inside it, that cold breathing, and hear the sucking sound. Wave walls up and I straighten out, knowing there are more behind it and I have to go in anyway. Get to the beach and I'm hearing hoots from the dunes. Guy I recognize comes up and gives me a high five, telling me that's got to be my wave of the year. One is all it takes on a day like today. Stocked!
Fuck it. Threw my sh!t in the car and went straight to Lawton around 10:30. Suited up, waxed up, walked to the top of the dune to find a way out. Waves were starting to cap on the outer outer outer bars a mile out to sea. Maxing (3 times overhead easy), clean A-frames all up and down the beach. Paddle was abusive. Can't really duck dive this 8'6 Hess, so just charged my way through a lot of heavy white water. Thought I might not get out after about 20 minutes, but suddenly the ocean backed off and I sprinted into deep water. Inner bar current was ripping super hard north, so I ended up getting outside at Lincoln (0.7 miles traveled, according to Google Maps).
Huge lumps of water out there. Paused for a couple minutes for some Wim-Hoff breathing, then started working my way south. Took 30 minutes of paddling to finally get into position on a proper bowl around Lawton. Kept edging into position, until a bomb came my way. Left. Head down, going hard. Long, steep drop, bottom turn into the hook, stand tall and look back into the grinding maw a few feet behind me. Get low, trying to stall. No vision, but I can feel myself inside it, that cold breathing, and hear the sucking sound. Wave walls up and I straighten out, knowing there are more behind it and I have to go in anyway. Get to the beach and I'm hearing hoots from the dunes. Guy I recognize comes up and gives me a high five, telling me that's got to be my wave of the year. One is all it takes on a day like today. Stocked!
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Love it! True big ob surf day story. SF bar peaked at 10.2 ft @ 18 sec. Not the biggest it's ever been but certainly not small either.