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Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
25,223
8,331
113
San Francisco, CA
On the 25th, saw a 10 ft at 24 second reading on the SF buoy around 1 AM, then closer to 7 AM saw, 9 ft at 21 seconds, and knew if i checked Half Moon Bay or Pt Reyes it would be bigger, and thought, "Hmmmm, Angel Island?" Checked the Beach, whoa! Then drove the way to Santa Cruz (for the still healing labrum) and reiterated to myself that more people do not need to return to their home for Thanksgiving (while they thought 'more people do not need to come this way when it gets big'), and managed to get 1 super wave, a few clunkers (Get out of my way, I'm not that good!), and one solid kelp lashing that lasted way, way too long.

On the 26th, got Friend #1 for dawn patrol where the channel wasn't completely closing out and nearly had a dry hood paddle out. Got shouted into a wave that I wasn't prepared for (thought he was going to make the drop, so I didn't paddle early enough to catch it), missed the big wave of the set, so I chased the rest of the waves in set in only to get cleaned up by the last wave of the set, ducked dived through some heart stoppers (which was nice because then I knew my imagination was getting the best of me), saw some great rides with guys on 9+ boards (making me feel inadequate on the 7'6"), a lame ass shoulder hop that didn't turn on until that last section way, way inside, then the whole line up got cleaned up and I surfaced next to Friend #1 and then we got rolled some more, and I shouted about getting out of here and raced for the channel but he thought it meant leave, so he caught the next wave in, and when I get back out, it is me and three others, and I keep looking back in wondering what happened, then I spy him on shore, so I get whatever comes next, then struggle through the shoredump, and we walk back as a dad and two kids under the age of 6 are strolling down the hillside to what? Play in the 50 ft long by 6 ft wide damp sand that is getting swept every 1/2 hr by the bigger waves? Sigh.

PS
The 22nd was super playful greatness at the Beach. Got the nephew out. He didn't die. I so wish I didn't have to babysit him for it, but no, someone had to promise the sister-in-law something about being a good uncle.
The 23rd was C grade Lindamar. Nephew took a fin to the shoulder and broke it...the fin I mean. He'll live and remember the day long after the bruise fades, but I may have put the kibosh on a free airline ticket (when he 'graduates' from flying the 50 seaters from Lincoln to Pueblo).

PPS
The tertiary stage syphilis may be acting up, may have to take a long lunch to get it looked at.
 
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Woke AF

Tom Curren status
Jul 29, 2009
11,846
8,521
113
Southern Tip, Norcal
Thoughts:
The level of aggression, quality of surfing, and number of surfers out was greater than ever.
Many drop in’s on waves of significance with guys kicking boards at the perps.
Some of the best big barrel riding I’ve seen.
Saw a guy snap his 6’ HPSB swim all the way in from the outer bar undo his leash and throw the 1 ft section away while jumping up and down run over to the the other piece run back to the little piece and then run up the dunes.
Have had a rough Fall. One solid concussion, a couple weeks ago, with a tweaked neck. Really lucky that was all, and a scratched eyeball the other day.
 

Bob Dobbalina

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2016
4,623
5,085
113
Thoughts:
The level of aggression, quality of surfing, and number of surfers out was greater than ever.
Many drop in’s on waves of significance with guys kicking boards at the perps.
Some of the best big barrel riding I’ve seen.
Agreed on all counts
But I didn't see many drop ins until today, when I saw 3 in a row.
 
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Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
25,223
8,331
113
San Francisco, CA
Some fun 4 ft at 13 second this AM with a setting full Beaver Moon, if a little soft due to incoming tide and the moved around sand. Got to work late, oh well, get to burn some leave for it so I don't have to stay late.

And the long lunch yesterday confirmed that the tertiary stage syphilis is just wetsuit rash from the last multiple days of surf...whew!
 
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slipped_disc

Michael Peterson status
Jun 27, 2019
1,835
2,851
113
What quad fins are dudes liking on their midsize guns?

I’ve got a 7’4” x 20” x 3” that needs some twins. It’d be for DOH-ish surf.

the consensus on my group chat is EA quads… but these dudes just don’t go erBB-level deep.
 
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