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The Official OBSF Support Group
- Thread starter bluengreen
- Start date
Yeah, saw that dude/purple fish heading out as I was coming in this morning at VFW though, so different guy I guess.
This morning was really fun- made my whole damn day.
1. Sunday, marine forecast from National Weather Service looked good.
2. Sunday called Friend #1, said I'd be there. He said, "see you there."
3. Showed up, tapped on kitchen window, no reply, suited up, started walking to beach, see Friend #1, mention that I saw a buoy report at 8 ft, 18 seconds
4. Look, sketch out possible channel, acknowledge size and currents, he jogs back to house, I head out
5. 4th in the water and 1st one out.....a few seconds later see the others were out before me, just hidden by the swell, so 6th out and much further south than I thought I would be. Tiring paddle. Am feeling lack of good surf in October, general summer malaise, and lack of personal discipline to overcome said exercise malaise.
6. paddle north to meet up with Friend #1 who just gets out without the drift aspect
7. Some waves, then I get cleaned up and when I get back out, am right back where I first got out, long paddle north.
8. Pick up what turns out to be my wave of the day, starts with a bit of panic as i dropped, thought I was too late, but inside fin/rail engage, and the clean swell/water help, and solid bottom turn, then steep wall, pet the cat, and done. Short and probably less nifty to others than myself, but c'est la vie.
9. Am able to sneak outside due to magnificent duckdive and some stamina (where did that come from, panic induced adrenalin surge or post good wave 'stock'?) for the sprint past the next wave. Brag to Friend #1 of my lucky wave selection and quick hustle.
10. Big set, I go to the north of it, Friend #1 is clobbered. His leash breaks, but the board pops up and somehow doesn't get pushed in. He gets to, waives me off, and goes in.
11. Last wave for me proves to be all drop as I can't get around the section. Next wave is bigger and breaks much further out, so I expect to belly in on an crumbly mess of stew that is wedging towards me, sort of building. Hits me, and it is a bronco ride that bucks me off. Next wave is more tractable wall of soup, and it is a treat until I suddenly pearl and manage to fill the wetsuit with lots of seawater down my neck.
12. Back at home, Sweetie-pie goes, "You're smiling......."
2. Sunday called Friend #1, said I'd be there. He said, "see you there."
3. Showed up, tapped on kitchen window, no reply, suited up, started walking to beach, see Friend #1, mention that I saw a buoy report at 8 ft, 18 seconds
4. Look, sketch out possible channel, acknowledge size and currents, he jogs back to house, I head out
5. 4th in the water and 1st one out.....a few seconds later see the others were out before me, just hidden by the swell, so 6th out and much further south than I thought I would be. Tiring paddle. Am feeling lack of good surf in October, general summer malaise, and lack of personal discipline to overcome said exercise malaise.
6. paddle north to meet up with Friend #1 who just gets out without the drift aspect
7. Some waves, then I get cleaned up and when I get back out, am right back where I first got out, long paddle north.
8. Pick up what turns out to be my wave of the day, starts with a bit of panic as i dropped, thought I was too late, but inside fin/rail engage, and the clean swell/water help, and solid bottom turn, then steep wall, pet the cat, and done. Short and probably less nifty to others than myself, but c'est la vie.
9. Am able to sneak outside due to magnificent duckdive and some stamina (where did that come from, panic induced adrenalin surge or post good wave 'stock'?) for the sprint past the next wave. Brag to Friend #1 of my lucky wave selection and quick hustle.
10. Big set, I go to the north of it, Friend #1 is clobbered. His leash breaks, but the board pops up and somehow doesn't get pushed in. He gets to, waives me off, and goes in.
11. Last wave for me proves to be all drop as I can't get around the section. Next wave is bigger and breaks much further out, so I expect to belly in on an crumbly mess of stew that is wedging towards me, sort of building. Hits me, and it is a bronco ride that bucks me off. Next wave is more tractable wall of soup, and it is a treat until I suddenly pearl and manage to fill the wetsuit with lots of seawater down my neck.
12. Back at home, Sweetie-pie goes, "You're smiling......."
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Yeah, looked great out there. Saw some big tubes on the cam. Sadly work all day no fun make me dull boy.
Glad you scored!
Glad you scored!
Yesterday sucked and was really crowded. Nothing like 3 people turning turtle 10-15 yards in front of you of as an outside set wave walling up to pitch. Walked home thinking I officially suck, too old, blah blah...
Today bigger cleaner not as crowded. Easy paddle out after a few beatings inside. An odd side wave wedging backwash thing happening. Get into the giant rip and easy. Getting out of the giant rip took 45 minutes. Got a few soft backside waves. Rode the 7'2 twin. Rides like a Lincoln Continental. Meh
A couple of solid rights with a couple of top turns outside and cheater 5's on the inside bowl.
Who knew I can still do it.
Today bigger cleaner not as crowded. Easy paddle out after a few beatings inside. An odd side wave wedging backwash thing happening. Get into the giant rip and easy. Getting out of the giant rip took 45 minutes. Got a few soft backside waves. Rode the 7'2 twin. Rides like a Lincoln Continental. Meh
A couple of solid rights with a couple of top turns outside and cheater 5's on the inside bowl.
Who knew I can still do it.
Is your board red? I might have seen you. I don't see too many twinies around these days.
Haven’t surfed in 2 or 3 weeks but had a short window today, able to get down to the beach around 1130 this morning, checked Moraga, but ended up driving back up and paddling out at Kirkham. Pretty beautiful conditions today (and sunset in the west sky right now). Still trying to learn to stop being such a wimp so I sat a little inside the pack so I’d be forced to wear sets on the head (success) and increase wave count (not a success). Did at least get a memorable wave that made the effort worth it.
I see an older gentleman all the time on a giant red Maurice Cole twin. Sits way outside and hangs with a Mavs guy that rides a big green Andreini at OB. Is THAT you?Yep. Now I feel nakid.
Jesusfuckingchrist- 'older gentleman' if I knew someone even thought of me as an older gentleman I would burn the living fck out of them until... bitter old guy rant over.
Nope, mine is a red Album Ledge. Don't ride it all that often cuz it is kinda dull. I've been called out on my purple Parmy more often than not. I do have a green Anndrieni Vaquero only 7' though.
I do hangout with the old talkative 70ish local who rides a SUP. He was out all the time until this past couple of years going through chemo and the removal of his stomach. Lost a lot of weight and a bit of his stoke but was out the other day and still hunts the outside sets.
Paul? Damn, wondering where he's been. I used to talk to Paul ALL THE TIME. Fortunately or unfortunatelty, I don't see him anymore now that I live on Lawton instead of Judah.Jesusfuckingchrist- 'older gentleman' if I knew someone even thought of me as an older gentleman I would burn the living fck out of them until... bitter old guy rant over.
Nope, mine is a red Album Ledge. Don't ride it all that often cuz it is kinda dull. I've been called out on my purple Parmy more often than not. I do have a green Anndrieni Vaquero only 7' though.
I do hangout with the old talkative 70ish local who rides a SUP. He was out all the time until this past couple of years going through chemo and the removal of his stomach. Lost a lot of weight and a bit of his stoke but was out the other day and still hunts the outside sets.
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Got out there today on the earlier side of things at 9 am with only a short window of availability.
Waxed up the new 8'4 Christenson Scicario... thought it would be a good day to give it a go.
Pretty mellow paddle out. Not dry hair by any stretch of the imagination but no real fuss getting outside.
Pretty small given the buoy reading but with the occasional proper set coming through. Two close calls on getting cleaned up.
Caught a few rights and lefts ranging from medium in-betweeners to medium-sized set waves.
Always nice to see the outer bars line up with long-period swell for the first time of the season.
All in all, super nice conditions with some pretty easy decent size waves and a bit of warble thrown in.
Bunch of guys on 7 footers hovering around the inside not quite sure what to do.
Waxed up the new 8'4 Christenson Scicario... thought it would be a good day to give it a go.
Pretty mellow paddle out. Not dry hair by any stretch of the imagination but no real fuss getting outside.
Pretty small given the buoy reading but with the occasional proper set coming through. Two close calls on getting cleaned up.
Caught a few rights and lefts ranging from medium in-betweeners to medium-sized set waves.
Always nice to see the outer bars line up with long-period swell for the first time of the season.
All in all, super nice conditions with some pretty easy decent size waves and a bit of warble thrown in.
Bunch of guys on 7 footers hovering around the inside not quite sure what to do.
Sorry to overestimate your chivalry.
I do hangout with the old talkative 70ish local who rides a SUP. He was out all the time until this past couple of years going through chemo and the removal of his stomach. Lost a lot of weight and a bit of his stoke but was out the other day and still hunts the outside sets.
I think I talked with that guy once, briefly.
Odds are good. He talks to everyone endlessly.
Legit oldtime charger. Never seen him even attempt to turn and will run anyone over at any time.