***The Official Mid-Length Thread***

rgruber

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May 30, 2004
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Torren Martyn is 29.

He seems to do OK on high quality waves on a mid. Don't think he's missing out on anything.

He also can rip Nias sticking beyond vertical drops on a short twin.

Not pickin on Aruka, I know he surfs a variety of boards, but I think there's this pervasive mindset that high performace shortboarding is the default for how people "should" surf and anything else is a bit of step down and any other board besides a HPSB is a crutch.

Some people like a different feeling or approach to waves. It's a big world not everyone has to surf the same way.

I have a couple of younger friends in their 20s and 30's who both have always surfed mid lengths and are some of the best surfers I know and certainly the most stylish to watch.

I just sort of chafe at the idea that there's one right way to surf.

On my recent trip the number of healthy looking humans under the age of 30 with no obvious physical disability who were riding midlengths was quite disturbing.

There's nothing intrinsically wrong with these boards but I struggle to understand why a person in their prime, surfing legitimately good surf, would ride one aside from the paddle factor. Are we going to have a whole generation of surfers who never experience the sensation of an actual top turn?

Don't get me wrong, they are fun to ride in their own way.

But talk about wasted youth!

Do drugs, have sex and hit the lip while you can kids!
 

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
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Torren Martyn is 29.

He seems to do OK on high quality waves on a mid. Don't think he's missing out on anything.

He also can rip Nias sticking beyond vertical drops on a short twin.

Not pickin on Aruka, I know he surfs a variety of boards, but I think there's this pervasive mindset that high performace shortboarding is the default for how people "should" surf and anything else is a bit of step down and any other board besides a HPSB is a crutch.

Some people like a different feeling or approach to waves. It's a big world not everyone has to surf the same way.

I have a couple of younger friends in their 20s and 30's who both have always surfed mid lengths and are some of the best surfers I know and certainly the most stylish to watch.

I just sort of chafe at the idea that there's one right way to surf.
I never said there's a right or wrong way to surf. I actually said there's nothing intrinsically wrong with riding a mid.

For many surfers a HP thruster is NOT the right choice. Especially if the waves are mushy.

There's no comparison between Torren and your average midlength rider though. He's in the top .01% of all surfers. I have no idea what his surf history is but I would bet money he grew up riding HPSB's just like all the other "alt" free surfers. Asher Pacey, Kerr, etc.

I think there's a lot to be said for learning the basics of riding a shorter board, whether a thruster or not, and learning to surf in the pocket. You can apply those skills to different equipment, including a mid. If you wait until you're 40 to learn how to pump a surfboard, it's not gonna be pretty. Also, just as a thruster isn't the best choice for most people in mushy waves, a midlength isn't a good choice for most people in dumping beachbreak tubes.

Do I think many guys are riding these mainly because they are good for wave hogging? Yes.

That doesn't mean everyone who rides a mid is a wave hog but having ridden one myself in a crowded lineup recently I can definitely see how easy it would be to become a complete terror with one of these.
 

20W-50 and blood

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Feb 4, 2004
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I never said there's a right or wrong way to surf. I actually said there's nothing intrinsically wrong with riding a mid.

having ridden one myself in a crowded lineup recently I can definitely see how easy it would be to become a complete terror with one of these.
where you at? ill bring my 10'6 paddleboard and we'll make the world hate us


by the wya...for you midsize(don't know if this fits the cool lingo or reuirements or whatever the fug)....but this ones eems like a decent deal. oslide approved. as well....rumors are riding one will give you hair liek sean mattison
 
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doc_flavonoid

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Dec 27, 2019
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where you at? ill bring my 10'6 paddleboard and we'll make the world hate us


by the wya...for you midsize(don't know if this fits the cool lingo or reuirements or whatever the fug)....but this ones eems like a decent deal. oslide approved. as well....rumors are riding one will give you hair liek sean mattison
"volume to compete with longboarders"

:roflmao::roflmao::roflmao:

lets do it. how many yards farther out do you think i can sit on my 9-8?
 

doc_flavonoid

Michael Peterson status
Dec 27, 2019
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f()ck you and that...ill beat you on my 10'6! actually...id probably sitll ahve to sit inside...but whatever....we've all lost. wavestorms win. it is over. was over. is over. will be over.
could always bust out the 12er but seems like overkill. does scatter the shoulder hoppers though...
 

20W-50 and blood

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could always bust out the 12er but seems like overkill. does scatter the shoulder hoppers though...
had some idiot early summer (softbaord of course) try to shoulde rhop as im blowing down the line on my fugging 14 footer! coudl not believe he was going for it.
"she's 14 feet jackass, your head!"

thankfully...he backed off as opposed to becoming skull slurry. didn't mean to call him tha tin front of his (obvious) friends....but F90ck....i didnt want to kill him and was actually scared for his sake.

that being said...i made the entire F()cking wave.