6'3" tip to tip never measured swallow but compared to my alpha omega swallow much smaller. Idea of 2x4 step up is same/similiar confidence bord with more rail etc.@rowjimmytour
I'd guess around 6ish for the tip to tip and maybe 1-1 1/2' on the depth of swallow ( kind of standard shortboard)
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The Middleman
- Thread starter One-Off
- Start date
I went with baby swallow. Photos seem to distort. My room is too small to get any distance away so I always have the fish eye effect. I also put some ever so slight concaves in to the vee.
Now working on getting the veneers ready. I found some really interesting wood on sale (clearance). It's coast bay laurel. The pieces have interesting figure and grain... but one problem...I mean challenge. I'm trying to figure out what to do.
Now working on getting the veneers ready. I found some really interesting wood on sale (clearance). It's coast bay laurel. The pieces have interesting figure and grain... but one problem...I mean challenge. I'm trying to figure out what to do.
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You gotta take advantage of those knots and make them look like chi chis on the board.
there is something rather feminine about those curves, isn't there...
Is the void for mother of pearl maybe. Or you could make it look like Kenny's hoody from South Park?
Did you saw(resaw) the veneers?
Forgive me I've not been following along very long.
I'm a fan of these borts though.
Did you saw(resaw) the veneers?
Forgive me I've not been following along very long.
I'm a fan of these borts though.
My first thought was MOP (mother of pearl), but I think I'd have to piece together several pieces. Not sure how the joins will look and it would add considerable cost. I'm experimenting with another possible solution...
...and no it does not involve female erogenous zones. Sorry to disappoint, guys.
On that trusty 7-4 the only sign of wear and tear after 15 years (?) is a raised ridge under the stringer with some minor cracking. To address this I decided to rout out the top of the stringer and put some foam in the channel. I don't need the extra strength afforded by the stringer but I limited the depth of the cut to make sure I had some continuous stringer over the eventual center fin box. There will still be a hard spot but I figure it has 1/4" to crush along with the foam on the side so it should never start cracking....
Vee under back foot with slight double concaves centered at fin cluster.
Too cold to glass today...Working out fin positions.
Twinzer set up- mains at 8-1/2". It's the Jobson position. I know the twinzer doctors here like them further back, <7', but since it's a 7'-6" I figure it scales to something similar. 3/16" toe for both mains and canards. I've done them with more toe for the canards, but today I was looking at them. I see the inside surface of the canard redirecting water to the outside surface of the mains. With more toe it seems that effect would be lessened. Cant- I will use the cant of the boxes- 5 for mains and 8 for canards. I think the vee and concave cancel out any changes due to bottom contours.
2+1- my trusty 7-4 that this is intended to replace is a 2+1. It works great so I wanted to keep that option.The canard's boxes put the side bites at 12-3/4" which is just a little more than the magic number Neil Purchase Jr. suggests. I had to move the boxes forward a little to give a little space between them. I didn't want to do that operation that someone on here did- routing out the rear of the forward boxes. This also made the canards have no overlap in twinzer mode, which the twinzer docs have suggested for big waves. Win win. The center fin will be at 5-1/2" and has 2" of adjustment forward. I'm going to make some kind of insert to clean up the empty box when I use the board as a twinzer. Also the canards in the photo are smaller than the eventual side bites will be. The mains in the twinzer shots are rejects because one of the interior plus of the plywood had this dark streak that looks lame.
The center fin in the photo is a 5-1/2" bonzer center I made, an experiment I never got to try because I sold my bonzer. I was thinking of making some bonzer 3 style side fins too. I know it won't be a bonzer because the concaves are very shallow but it would be fun to try....
Looks like the fins redirect the wood grain.
Twinzer set up- mains at 8-1/2". It's the Jobson position. I know the twinzer doctors here like them further back, <7', but since it's a 7'-6" I figure it scales to something similar. 3/16" toe for both mains and canards. I've done them with more toe for the canards, but today I was looking at them. I see the inside surface of the canard redirecting water to the outside surface of the mains. With more toe it seems that effect would be lessened. Cant- I will use the cant of the boxes- 5 for mains and 8 for canards. I think the vee and concave cancel out any changes due to bottom contours.
2+1- my trusty 7-4 that this is intended to replace is a 2+1. It works great so I wanted to keep that option.The canard's boxes put the side bites at 12-3/4" which is just a little more than the magic number Neil Purchase Jr. suggests. I had to move the boxes forward a little to give a little space between them. I didn't want to do that operation that someone on here did- routing out the rear of the forward boxes. This also made the canards have no overlap in twinzer mode, which the twinzer docs have suggested for big waves. Win win. The center fin will be at 5-1/2" and has 2" of adjustment forward. I'm going to make some kind of insert to clean up the empty box when I use the board as a twinzer. Also the canards in the photo are smaller than the eventual side bites will be. The mains in the twinzer shots are rejects because one of the interior plus of the plywood had this dark streak that looks lame.
The center fin in the photo is a 5-1/2" bonzer center I made, an experiment I never got to try because I sold my bonzer. I was thinking of making some bonzer 3 style side fins too. I know it won't be a bonzer because the concaves are very shallow but it would be fun to try....
Looks like the fins redirect the wood grain.
The Middleman is done. Finally. 
It took so long mostly because of the unreliability of surfer labor. Always taking time off to surf. So annoying.
Cold wet weather didn't help either. I'm hoping there are still a few DOH days before this winter fades into a happy memory...it's been soooo good.
7'-6" x 21" x 2-3/4". 13-1/2" nose. 14-1/4" tail. 4-3/4 nose rocker. 2-1/4" tail rocker. Single concave. Fades to flat between feet, with vee starting behind feet. Fairly pronounced vee after fins. Very slight concave (1/16") in the vee panels.
This time I softened the hard edges ever so slightly starting about 8" in front of the fins.
Wide point 2" above center to keep foam under chest, but nose pulls in pretty quickly so hopefully it can still duck dive fairly easily. Tails pulls in to baby swallow (5") to get that curve around the back foot.
For twinzer doctors- mains at 8-1/2" 5 degrees cant 1/8" toe, canards, no overlap, 1-1/4" slot, 8 degrees cant. I decided to forget about the center box for the widow maker set up after surfing consecutive days on the 7-4 2+1 and then the 8-3 twinzer and the 8-3 twinzer felt looser and faster.
This board is not meant to trim. It is meant to turn hard in HH to DOH fat California reef breaks.
8.5 pounds. Not light but not too heavy given that it will last 15+ years, at least. Eco friendly for that reason only (surfboard are not eco friendly)_.
Oh, I had an old nautical chart of the Santa Monica Bay lying around and because the land features seemed the same brown color as the wood I decided to use that to fill the voids in the veneer. After I did it the white seemed to shocking so I decided to put the white pin stripes on to balance that a bit.
Note to amateur builders- don't skimp on pin striping tape. Use the expensive green stuff. I tried 1/4' regular masking and it bled everywhere and I had to sand them off and do them over. Pinstriping is hard. Avoid if at all possible.
It took so long mostly because of the unreliability of surfer labor. Always taking time off to surf. So annoying.
Cold wet weather didn't help either. I'm hoping there are still a few DOH days before this winter fades into a happy memory...it's been soooo good.
7'-6" x 21" x 2-3/4". 13-1/2" nose. 14-1/4" tail. 4-3/4 nose rocker. 2-1/4" tail rocker. Single concave. Fades to flat between feet, with vee starting behind feet. Fairly pronounced vee after fins. Very slight concave (1/16") in the vee panels.
This time I softened the hard edges ever so slightly starting about 8" in front of the fins.
Wide point 2" above center to keep foam under chest, but nose pulls in pretty quickly so hopefully it can still duck dive fairly easily. Tails pulls in to baby swallow (5") to get that curve around the back foot.
For twinzer doctors- mains at 8-1/2" 5 degrees cant 1/8" toe, canards, no overlap, 1-1/4" slot, 8 degrees cant. I decided to forget about the center box for the widow maker set up after surfing consecutive days on the 7-4 2+1 and then the 8-3 twinzer and the 8-3 twinzer felt looser and faster.
This board is not meant to trim. It is meant to turn hard in HH to DOH fat California reef breaks.
8.5 pounds. Not light but not too heavy given that it will last 15+ years, at least. Eco friendly for that reason only (surfboard are not eco friendly)_.
Oh, I had an old nautical chart of the Santa Monica Bay lying around and because the land features seemed the same brown color as the wood I decided to use that to fill the voids in the veneer. After I did it the white seemed to shocking so I decided to put the white pin stripes on to balance that a bit.
Note to amateur builders- don't skimp on pin striping tape. Use the expensive green stuff. I tried 1/4' regular masking and it bled everywhere and I had to sand them off and do them over. Pinstriping is hard. Avoid if at all possible.
How many litres?
What kind of traction pad are you putting on it?
What kind of traction pad are you putting on it?
You will have plenty of drive from the rials I would think.
That was interesting how you drew the tail from the fin template, is this a common technique? seems like a good one...
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