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The best First Point Analogies

T

Topazslider

OTF status
Jan 9, 2018
175
22
18
I just finished listening to the Surf Mastery Podcast with Devon Howard and heard the best analogies about first point that can apply to every premier surf spot like, trestles, Huntington Beach Pier, etc.
Analogy #1 from the host of the Podcast

A beginner intermediate going to first point and expecting to catch waves is like someone who just learned how to play football and showing up to a NFL game expecting to play/

Analogy #2 from Devon Howard

Imagine what it is like to go to a deli where they don't have numbers, and everyone knows who was there first, but decide to cut the line anyway.
 
D

DVR

Legend (inyourownmind)
Jun 8, 2011
355
17
18
Topeslide said:
I just finished listening to the Surf Mastery Podcast with Devon Howard and heard the best analogies about first point that can apply to every premier surf spot like, trestles, Huntington Beach Pier, etc.
Analogy #1 from the host of the Podcast

A beginner intermediate going to first point and expecting to catch waves is like someone who just learned how to play football and showing up to a NFL game expecting to play/

Analogy #2 from Devon Howard

Imagine what it is like to go to a deli where they don't have numbers, and everyone knows who was there first, but decide to cut the line anyway.
Click to expand...
analogy #3 someone making an analogy about 1st point who doesn't live there is like Sam George writing about anything surf related
 
T

Topazslider

OTF status
Jan 9, 2018
175
22
18
DVR433 said:
Topeslide said:
I just finished listening to the Surf Mastery Podcast with Devon Howard and heard the best analogies about first point that can apply to every premier surf spot like, trestles, Huntington Beach Pier, etc.
Analogy #1 from the host of the Podcast

A beginner intermediate going to first point and expecting to catch waves is like someone who just learned how to play football and showing up to a NFL game expecting to play/

Analogy #2 from Devon Howard

Imagine what it is like to go to a deli where they don't have numbers, and everyone knows who was there first, but decide to cut the line anyway.
Click to expand...
analogy #3 someone making an analogy about 1st point who doesn't live there is like Sam George writing about anything surf related
Click to expand...
Define "live there?" like in a van on PCH? Or up Cross Creek Road?
 
~rwright~

~rwright~

Michael Peterson status
Apr 14, 2015
2,539
967
113
Los Angeles~California!
Topeslide said:
Define "live there?" like in a van on PCH? Or up Cross Creek Road?
Click to expand...
Or ah, err ain't pep's who dig surfin' been crashin' out where~ever they can
just to ride some waves since it became popular? At 1st Point even???
Ah, just like the dudes in this old pic from thee late 1950's, right?:


Betcha every~one who surfed Malibu
back when Kathy+Tracy were young was not a shredder,
betcha there were some kooks in this early '60's picture too:

Pffft, quit your whinin' + go + surf, pal...
:shrug:



 
~rwright~

~rwright~

Michael Peterson status
Apr 14, 2015
2,539
967
113
Los Angeles~California!
Here ya go Topeslide,
found ya some real old footage of 1st Point,
from thee early '60's before short~boards were even around!
Filmed at the time when it was what it was,
waaay before thee current retro scene that ya seem to hate on today was happenin'...
:wave2:
 
jamesgang

jamesgang

Miki Dora status
Aug 9, 2006
3,979
1,062
113
Location Location
I surfed it until dark a few nights ago on a 10’0” glider fish and had a blast. Never got a wave to myself but hey, it’s Malibu.
 
studog

studog

Duke status
Jan 15, 2003
35,863
637
113
CA
No one apologies at Malizoo. :rolleyes: Everyone just goes and burns each other
 
B

Bob Dobbalina

Miki Dora status
Feb 23, 2016
4,340
4,751
113
Topeslide said:
I just finished listening to the Surf Mastery Podcast with Devon Howard and heard the best analogies about first point that can apply to every premier surf spot like, trestles, Huntington Beach Pier, etc.
Analogy #1 from the host of the Podcast

A beginner intermediate going to first point and expecting to catch waves is like someone who just learned how to play football and showing up to a NFL game expecting to play/

Analogy #2 from Devon Howard

Imagine what it is like to go to a deli where they don't have numbers, and everyone knows who was there first, but decide to cut the line anyway.
Click to expand...

Analogy 1= Maybe running out in the middle of a high school game. Super Bowl analogy makes Malibu sound difficult to surf. It's not. Hence the crowd of kooks.

Move to a place where expert level surfing is more of a prerequisite, and tha analogy holds more water.
 
Truth

Truth

Phil Edwards status
Jul 18, 2002
5,916
3,442
113
never been there or surfed Malibu in my life before this summer -

I was water patrol for the Surf Aid cup

I "accidentally" took a set wave when the heats were overlapping and rode it all the way through by myself -

was reprimanded but got to ride a wave in malibu by myself which I was told is unheard of

 
studog

studog

Duke status
Jan 15, 2003
35,863
637
113
CA
Truth said:
was reprimanded but got to ride a wave in malibu by myself which I was told is unheard of
Click to expand...
on a shortboard it's only been a handful of times for me. One of them after the wave as I paddled back out Andy Lyons was bitching at me for "back paddling" him. :rolleyes: when in fact I was sitting further out and up the point before the wave event came. Guess he didn't like it that I had to push his board away from me as he was trying to drop in on me :nana: at Malibu the victim is the one that seems to have to apologize. fuck that place
 
~rwright~

~rwright~

Michael Peterson status
Apr 14, 2015
2,539
967
113
Los Angeles~California!
youcantbeserious said:
I surfed it until dark a few nights ago on a 10’0” glider fish and had a blast.
Never got a wave to myself but hey, it’s Malibu.
Click to expand...
Right on!
1 of my bro's, Ray~Ray, surfed it last week, seems with the contest happenin' down in Baja, Mexico,
well alotta the regular 1st Pt. rippers of 2019 were gone, so he got him some fun sets, by himself, yow~za!!!

Malibu WILL always have some novices, beginners, pep's out there of a lesser ability than us,
you dudes+chicks, whom like I have, have basically mastered the skill of L.A. wave~riding. Who cares if they too wanna try+ride? 'Twas not everyone here who erBB's also once a kook too, right?

To beee~itch about thee crowds at Malibu is simply silly.
Malibu has been crowded since Kathy, err Gidget's Dad, wrote his book and Hollywood lapped it up.
Surely some of ya watched it: Gidget, Beach Blanket Bingo, etc on your b+w tv waaay back when like I did, no? And betcha even had to hand flip the tv channels too, before them remotes came about, hahaha...
:wave2:
:hat:

PS Waaay back in thee '80's I had a coupla surfpix of me, a young RW,
surfin' Malibu, at 3rd Pt, published in this here Bible of The Sport: Surfer Magazine.
So if some 30 years later, I'm baggin' on pep's complainin' about kooks at Malibu or how crowded it is, well ah, ya might dig that I saw it back in the '70's + onward+++ It has always been crowded! I used to always be a short~boarder, but really who cares what dudes think I should ride, some-times now I've been seen out on a fun~board ridin' switch~foot, giggles in my soul in a line~up where novices,
adult learners try to learn to surf, hahaha!

+

Go surf!
:)
 
~rwright~

~rwright~

Michael Peterson status
Apr 14, 2015
2,539
967
113
Los Angeles~California!
obslop said:
1st point malibu on an OH south is a level of fookery that must be experienced to be believed.
Click to expand...
But a good back~sider like your~self could belt that lip further up the Pt. time+time again.
Even over the last few dayz. That said, hope ya got some fun in your neck of thee woods!
:jam_on:

 
Truth

Truth

Phil Edwards status
Jul 18, 2002
5,916
3,442
113
Steamroller said:
alright allright.....dont get all bent out of shape just yet....
this is yesterday on maui...little different rules and behaviors apply....
Click to expand...
Steamroller - thanks for letting me use your softop in Maui via Lelandcuz
be in maui tomorrow and good south for weekend and beyond
you around?
 
studog

studog

Duke status
Jan 15, 2003
35,863
637
113
CA
Mr Doof said:
So with all the rain this winter, did the lagoon expel sand and grit to the right places?
Click to expand...

that's a BIG negative ghost rider. The sand situation is as bad as I've ever seen out there. Nothing added from the rains. maybe a little taken away (which is kind of natural in the area and it'll come back in the summer). took the longboard out Sunday and on the lower tide. sitting off the flag pole that section was super straight and closing out.
 
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