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teeroi shots
- Thread starter sponge
- Start date
Couple old ones, 6.29.22.
So what do you think about the rest of the week into the weekend. If Tahiti is any indication of what's to come... Unfortunately weather might not cooperate with firm winds, clouds and maybe rain.
So what do you think about the rest of the week into the weekend. If Tahiti is any indication of what's to come... Unfortunately weather might not cooperate with firm winds, clouds and maybe rain.
Tides really low early on too, but if the wind is suspect best early.
Got an invite to go Big Island from Uncle Ray. He knows a spot that lights up with the big south and SE wind. Another crew is talking up a certain fickle Maui freight train.
If it gets bigger than that closeout the channel swell earlier this year might surf closer to DH. Dodging the buoy while the channel closes out wasnt fun. Westside might be epic too. I always think about checking other spots out but usually end up taking my beatings at Big Bowl. Haha.
Mahalo for the pics Neal!
Yeah Neal nice seeing you. Waves were weird. Did get a barrel at Middles just before you swam out and I have receipts. Hahaha
L
too blurry for me to recognize your shorts. therefore i remain skeptical.
Sucking in the gut for the camera. What a poser. Haha
Was watching a random video on YouTube which I thought was from this past weekend's swell. Turned out to be a south from May. Saw a familiar style starting at 11:26. Nice one Troy.
Thanks Neal. He got the wave I burned the big back paddler too. Haha. Been a good summer so far.
No it’s the put on the big boy shorts and push hard off the concave feeling. The weightless feeling is when I get pitched over the falls cause my short Asian arms let me down and I’m too dumb to pull back. Haha.Hey, is that the weightless concave feeling?
How you doing Troy? Heard about the accident yesterday. Heal up and rest.
Thanks for checking Neal. I was wearing the new shorts too. Got a set and pulled into a quick coverup the wave let me out and I think the bottom fell out and I hit the water on the left side of my head. My ear buzzed then I hit the reef too. Saw stars. Bleeding. Couldn’t hear in my left ear.
Gregg offered to paddle me in. Said there’s a lot of blood. It felt like reef rash so I was going to stay out but my ear wouldn’t clear. No blood from ear so I didn’t think it was a ruptured ear drum. I knew the boys were freaking about blood in the water so I said let me get one in.
Got a medium one. Zipped by the tube section this time and found a corner. Laid into a carve and made a another section to prone in.
Guys in the parking lot were tripping at all the blood. Dr. Derrick took a look and was going to use his towel to wipe away the mess. Told him I didn’t want him to have my dna. He laughed and replied it might make him surf better. Jeannie walked up saw me bleeding and started crying. That was the worse part of the whole ordeal. Derrick said there’s a quarter inch cut might not need sutures.
Bruce whose a heart tech had a first aid kit and after pressure the bleeding stopped and he glued the cut.
When I got to work it swoll up and started bleeding again. So I went to the ER.
Left with more holes than I went in with. Tetanus shot, antibiotics IV cause of the Ala Wai and a perforated ear drum.
On of the ER docs surfs Bowls Rights and told me no surfing. See the ear doc Wednesday.
Got 3 waves this past swell. Second one wasn’t so great. Last one with a hole in my ear bleeding profusely from my face and in the dark I managed a high speed carving turn. Told Bobby who was paddling out to tell Gregg I made it to the beach ok and ripped the last wave.
I ordered a helmet and surfer ear plugs. After the facial cuts heal might have to sneak a surf in. It’s gonna be hard cause there’s a lot of docs and medical staff that surf the dawn patrol. Gonna have to show them my cat scan that I really have a brain. Haha.