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For the most part Hawaii has channels. If you paddle out where people are dropping in you probably aren't going to make it back out anyway. It's. one of the things that makes Backdoor such a risk and reward wave. On a good day you're going to be wearing waves the whole way back out if you try and get straight back out vs getting back to the pipe channel.
I sling turds at everyone, my only criteria is that they gotta be on their two feet to reply
Yes. They just sit there. even the ones who do know how to duck dive go for the open face instead of aiming for the white water.
So I’m racing down the line with sun and spray in my eyes trying to make a section, maybe setting up a tube and you paddle a b-line to the shoulder in front of me and it’s my fault for running you over?
Same situation here. I don't miss it NEARLY as much as I thought I would. That doesn't mean I don't miss surfing but FFS if its what I'm hearing it's like thanks to the "new normal" good riddance
dude, u dodged a bullet. it's fkn nutz. like 10x worse than before u left.
hahah people paddle out at named crowded CA spots with their wetsuits on backwards and their leashes attached to their arms. not being able to duckdve is the least of it.
And thanks to Surflie, r/surf, social media, et all. pretty much every spot in SoCal is named and crowded.
all the time ive lived in LA ive always wondered why the kooks just dont go over to dockweiler. a couple miles of crappy waves to learn on with no one in sight and plenty of parking. if i was an adult learner - thats where id go.
I still think you're crazy to move there.
Fuckin makes me want to move backI still think you're crazy to move there.
In a way Havoc is both right and wrong: that stretch from Bolsa Chica to HB Pier has always been a shitshow and the shitlevel probably has increased in magnitude lately. It's funny that the increase would be that apparent.
My elation towards moving up north is probably quite apparent. With the constant raw power, it's like a coldwater Hawaii but with hardly any people and that's on weekends. Most definitely challenging and heavy but also really, really good at the same time. No question, I have been scoring (I think there has been one day when it was not at least a couple feet overhead). And hey to top it off, got a feast tonight from the 80+ littleneck clams we nabbed from the mudflats yesterday during minus tide.
