Stocked to be surfing again!

brukuns

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2014
9,774
4,526
113
Sao Paulo/Brazil
I mentioned this several times already but I basically quit surfing (gradually) a little over 3 years ago when my kid was born. I think before I started surfing again a couple months ago I got to go 1 year straight without surfing. and it was like once every 6, maybe 3 months before that. It sucked, but it seems if you don't surf for a while you start "needing" it less.

Got back to it a couple months ago when I was starting to lose some lockdown weight, felt like learning all over again... I was taking off and falling on my head, standing up and letting the wave go past me, barely making any duck dives, that kind of kookery.

I'm glad I insisted, specially since for the first time ever I'm actually surfing even during the week (try living 2 hours away from your break. I can only do it because I'm working from home). I was never good, but I feel I'm almost back where I was 3 years ago.

Stocked because past Saturday I totally scored with my friend. The private condo where my friend owns a house is the only way to get to the break, and the gates are only opened to the public after 7am, so the crowd starts trickling down from 7:15 onwards...

We were in the water at first light at 4:40am (I woke up fucking 2am!) and the waves were bigger than expected, so we surfed uncrowded overhead surf (not big, but decent, with a few bigger sneaker sets), zero wind, really opening up (albeit tide was too high so it was hard to catch'em) for 3 hours. Fucking epic. I didn't do much, but it was my first time surfing actual overhead waves since I got back to surfing and it felt fucking good to race a few bigger walls.

A few pics I found from that day (not me, just random dudes)

tijuco.png
sao-pedro.png
sao-pedro-2.png
 

theramrod

Nep status
Nov 14, 2014
605
825
93
N Cackalaki
Great post and welcome back to the water. Your post has me thinking about how I don't live and breath riding waves like I used too. I'm more of a session or two every week, with it not uncommon for me to go a few weeks without a session, person now. It used to be I was out there on every ridable day. Fishing has filled a lot of that time but still no excuse, I need to get back in the water more. Thanks for the post.
 
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