I mentioned this several times already but I basically quit surfing (gradually) a little over 3 years ago when my kid was born. I think before I started surfing again a couple months ago I got to go 1 year straight without surfing. and it was like once every 6, maybe 3 months before that. It sucked, but it seems if you don't surf for a while you start "needing" it less.
Got back to it a couple months ago when I was starting to lose some lockdown weight, felt like learning all over again... I was taking off and falling on my head, standing up and letting the wave go past me, barely making any duck dives, that kind of kookery.
I'm glad I insisted, specially since for the first time ever I'm actually surfing even during the week (try living 2 hours away from your break. I can only do it because I'm working from home). I was never good, but I feel I'm almost back where I was 3 years ago.
Stocked because past Saturday I totally scored with my friend. The private condo where my friend owns a house is the only way to get to the break, and the gates are only opened to the public after 7am, so the crowd starts trickling down from 7:15 onwards...
We were in the water at first light at 4:40am (I woke up fucking 2am!) and the waves were bigger than expected, so we surfed uncrowded overhead surf (not big, but decent, with a few bigger sneaker sets), zero wind, really opening up (albeit tide was too high so it was hard to catch'em) for 3 hours. Fucking epic. I didn't do much, but it was my first time surfing actual overhead waves since I got back to surfing and it felt fucking good to race a few bigger walls.
A few pics I found from that day (not me, just random dudes)
Got back to it a couple months ago when I was starting to lose some lockdown weight, felt like learning all over again... I was taking off and falling on my head, standing up and letting the wave go past me, barely making any duck dives, that kind of kookery.
I'm glad I insisted, specially since for the first time ever I'm actually surfing even during the week (try living 2 hours away from your break. I can only do it because I'm working from home). I was never good, but I feel I'm almost back where I was 3 years ago.
Stocked because past Saturday I totally scored with my friend. The private condo where my friend owns a house is the only way to get to the break, and the gates are only opened to the public after 7am, so the crowd starts trickling down from 7:15 onwards...
We were in the water at first light at 4:40am (I woke up fucking 2am!) and the waves were bigger than expected, so we surfed uncrowded overhead surf (not big, but decent, with a few bigger sneaker sets), zero wind, really opening up (albeit tide was too high so it was hard to catch'em) for 3 hours. Fucking epic. I didn't do much, but it was my first time surfing actual overhead waves since I got back to surfing and it felt fucking good to race a few bigger walls.
A few pics I found from that day (not me, just random dudes)