Step up for large/mushy waves (north San Diego)

Swallow Tail

Billy Hamilton status
Oct 6, 2017
1,730
3,064
113
Your Mom’s House

fukc the hardest
B131B161-6594-4B35-91A1-DD83FD4B6F06.jpg

that Boars a 7/7 - those r some premium pizza stains.


But seriously, how the fxk does that even make it out of the glass shop looking like that; and shocking the glass shop and Album either just don’t give a fck or are clueless or both… n I can’t believe people pay premium prices for these things.
 

casa_mugrienta

Duke status
Apr 13, 2008
43,640
18,137
113
Petak Island
I honestly have the opposite experience. Lol.

If you go someplace like Blacks on this last run and look at what most people successfully riding waves are riding, for me it gets more simple. Alt constructions? Not really. Uniquely intricate and complicated designs? Nope. Odd fin arrays? No.

Lots of Rusty, Pyzel, Lost, CI, and respected local shapers who make boards for solid surf like Sharp Eye, Xanadu, SK, etc.

I really like riding unusual boards and EPS, but not when it gets real. Unless you have the skills
of Joel or Tosh Tudor, best to follow the herd.
What I meant was I seem to notice the nuance of the wave more.

For instance, what works at Blacks during a 12 second period will have you being very choosy at 15 seconds and at 17 seconds you're toast. Beyond overhead it usually leaves you longing for something longer than you would use elsewhere.

Swamis might ride something bigger than normal simply because of the crowd.

etc

The hard part about all this is on some of the bigger days you might only get a wave or two.
 

MathDebater

Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
2,594
6,148
113
SD
It seems like the OP isn't going this direction but I am a similar size and ride a 6'6" Von Sol Shadow Mid Twin and it works fantastic for me in pretty comparable wave in the Sunset Cliffs area. It can handle the occasional barrel section but I would not pull it out if it was consistently throwing.

I’ve lived a few miles north and south of there for over a decade now and never once paddled out.

so many other places to surf.
I worked a five minute walk from the stairs for almost 4 years and surfed it maybe 6 times. Zero times since I moved offices. It can be super fun but not worth the hassle.
 

MathDebater

Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
2,594
6,148
113
SD
One of my coworkers surfs there almost exclusively in the winter, but he only does it when it's dark. Same for Lowers in the summer. I think he's got night vision.
 
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Reactions: SD_Dan
May 31, 2011
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Another vote for a blackbird here.

I surf NCSD reefs frequently. At the size OP is talking about my blackbird works great. It obviously works in heavier waves but also surprising well in big mushy waves too. I use a GH quad fish up until its a few feet overhead, after that the blackbird will take care of anything it will throw at you. My only advice would be to go long if you end up getting one. Mine is 8 inches longer than my good wave shortboard and I wouldn't do it differently given the chance. I had a shorter one and after going bigger I didn't notice much disadvantage but did see a lot of advantages.
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,012
17,455
113
San Diego, CA
I’m definitely not advocating a board for Big Friday Blacks, which really required somethign close to a
legit gun. Just pointing out that when there is solid swell running (which when we all use staps), the most competent surfers in the lineup tend to ride PU thrusters because they work best in those conditions, and that would serve most of us average joes well.
:shaka:
FWIW I was driving around today with 6’8 blackbird + 6’3 ghost in the car. (Big thruster guy here. LOL) Blackbeard is such a security blanket.

that blue 7’0 Blackbird would be solid choice if it’s in new condition. Personally, I’d rather save a couple hundred bucks for a stap I know I won’t use more than a handful of days each winter. But then, most of my boars were used.
 
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SurfMission

Gerry Lopez status
Apr 13, 2009
1,218
1,080
113
I got a Blackbird a few years ago by calling Rustys warehouse and asking if they had a 6'10" in stock for a trip I was taking.They say no, but get my number and did the leg work to find one for me. An hour later the kid at the LJ Shores shop calls me and says he's got one and can knock $100 off the price. Went down that afternoon and picked it up.

Of course that was before the dark times. Before the Empire...
 

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,140
23,042
113
PNW
Anybody try the Arakawa Holy Moli? Looks like it could be fun at places that could use the added width.

View attachment 146193
an older guy around here has one. i felt it up and told him if he ever wanted to sell it to let me know. it looked great to me. i think someone on here has one but i can't remember who. or maybe it was the stun gun and i'm misremembering...
 

EntropyFletch

Gerry Lopez status
Sep 20, 2006
1,100
362
83
San Diego
Get a mid-length twin fin...best boards ever for mushy OH to DOH waves in SD. Ive got a 6'9" LoveMachine FM thats the fastest baord I've ever ridden. I've got a 6'8" quad Aquatic Oddities that I love. I've got a 7'0" Album Townsend twin thats super fun.

If you want to do what you said in the original post, a traditional shortboard like the many mentioned above aint gonna cut it...