Step up for large/mushy waves (north San Diego)

Nov 10, 2012
96
12
8
South SD, CA
Wow, overwhelmed with all the responses. Thanks so much for all the suggestions and advice.

A lot of twin keel recommendations, which surprised me. I've never ridden one, only thrusters and quads, with thruster my usual go-to. Wouldn't twin keel be super loose and skatey in bigger waves, and wash out?

I dont think going up just a few inches from a 6-2 hpsb to a 6-5 hpsb is enough to allow you to sit outside, dodge sets and stroke in early as you'd like. I would get at least a 6-8 with some extra volume like an m13, townsend, paddilac, f rocket, etc. If you want more hp shape the blackbird is an easy call but id go longer, like 7-0 or so, no problem. Big boards are fun and I think they are good for your surfing. You're a big guy, you'll still be able to turn it, whatever you get.
Thanks a lot. I haven't surfed a board longer than 6'2" for many, many years but I've been seeing so many guys ripping on much longer alt shapes and making it look really fun that I've definitely been tempted. I was worried anything longer than 6'5"-6'6" will be impossible to turn. But a few folks have told me surfing a longer board made them a better shortboard surfer. I think I'll go with something 6'8"-7" like you suggest, will be fun to switch it up a bit.

I was also concerned with duck dive-ability as the length and volume increase.
Right now, duck diving on the big days is an absolute breeze, and I'm just imagining that it'd be much tougher on a 7', significantly higher volume board.

Agree with Aruka. You need something that is minimum 6’8, probably like 6’10 or 7. Not too chippy with good foam distribution and easy rocker for paddling. I think the Rusty Blackbird is the most obvious choice.
Cheers, will go check that board out.


Just say Swamis because that's what you mean.:roflmao:
I've lived in San Diego for 12 years now and have never surfed there or wanted to surf there haha.


I'm not sure you've told us how you want to surf this board.
Take a look at this video, it shows a good variety of surf craft. Give us a time stamp of what you're thinking:
22:52 (including washing out on the top turn, realistically) or 00:32. Man, that video gives me anxiety. No thanks on the crowd. At least that's how I'd LIKE to surf it. Don't know if I COULD.


i don’t think a ghost is the right call but a blackbird could be. you want some V in the entry for the cheat with the water moving.
whatevr the obsf folks recommend, listen to them. last few days here in SD have been a walk in the park for those guys.
foam in the middle, tail block with some but not too much meat. do not get a toob shoota
Really good points, thank you! That was my worry - some of the boards recommended almost looked like Indo tube boards, and that's decidedly NOT what I'm talking about.

Email a local shaper or Gary Hanel or DJ Kane and ask them what they think you should be riding at the spot you're surfing. Personally I ride a Hanel egg or DK quad fish on the waves your asking about.
Not understanding why OP is coming here for advice, with all the shapers in North County that can make a board specifically for that wave.
Mainly analysis paralysis and just getting inspiration and ideas for what other people ride in those conditions.
I don't know specifically what local shapers to turn to, since I've almost always just bought used boards off of Craigslist, normally from bigger brands.
The only custom board I've ever had shaped was actually a 6'0" Gary Hanel fish that is absolutely magic - fast, rippable, insanely fun. What it is NOT is a fast paddler. It feels like it's made of lead when paddling out, which is why Hanel didn't pop in my mind when thinking about a longer board that's a great paddler.

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Twin keel fish. Couple inches longer than you would normally go, and a little thicker. Not joking. You will catch what you want and have a blast.
I feel like I'd still have the issue of the paddle ability, no?
 

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youcantbeserious

Billy Hamilton status
Oct 29, 2020
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Yeah I have never had a Handle, but I had a twin keel fish Jeff Bushman shaped me, 6'0" (I'm 6'4") super flat, kind thick with tapered rails, and it was my go-to board to surf sunset in the 4-6' Hawaiian range.

To me the twin keel is a good wave board, perfect for forehand surfing in good clean surf and bigger waves that aren't top to bottom but a little on the slopier side.
 

JDJ

Miki Dora status
Mar 1, 2014
4,831
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IMO an actual step up for the average average joe should be a thruster maybe a quad if you absolutely insist.

Leave the twins, keels and single fins to alt boards.
 
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silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,499
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Tower 13
based on your additional feedback, I would decide if you want a twin or stick with the quad/thruster option and consider these:

Album or chemistry twin in the 6'6" to 7'0" range

if you want to stick with the 3/4 fin option I would go Blackbird. I know you're used to pyzel but having ridden both I think the blackbird's rocker is better suited for CA waves.

But if I were in your shoes I'd probably take the info you got here and go talk to Gary Hanel and have him make you a pulled in better wave egg. He makes great boards and I've really liked the looks of his eggs that I've seen.
 

trifish

Gerry Lopez status
Sep 23, 2009
1,338
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Ghost is an exceptional board, just not really for slopey/mushy conditions. I will always have one in my quiver because it paddles really well, knives into late critical drops, and makes a great travel board. I was on mine often around the Bay Area in heavier bb's. Not so much in Socal and usually more at the bb's than softer reefs.
 

Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
3,041
4,551
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Innzid
This is what I would ride. Padillac much easier for you to get your hands on, but they're quite similar.
Webster Desert Storm 6'10 x 19 3/4 x 3, 43L. Big old battle axe of a step up, it'll outpaddle most others and keep you happy from OH to 2 x OH+, slopey or hollow.



Here it is 4 years and 200+ surfs later with its little brother (6'4)
 

One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,128
10,250
113
33.8N - 118.4W
Wow, overwhelmed with all the responses. Thanks so much for all the suggestions and advice.

A lot of twin keel recommendations, which surprised me. I've never ridden one, only thrusters and quads, with thruster my usual go-to. Wouldn't twin keel be super loose and skatey in bigger waves, and wash out?


Thanks a lot. I haven't surfed a board longer than 6'2" for many, many years but I've been seeing so many guys ripping on much longer alt shapes and making it look really fun that I've definitely been tempted. I was worried anything longer than 6'5"-6'6" will be impossible to turn. But a few folks have told me surfing a longer board made them a better shortboard surfer. I think I'll go with something 6'8"-7" like you suggest, will be fun to switch it up a bit.

I was also concerned with duck dive-ability as the length and volume increase.
Right now, duck diving on the big days is an absolute breeze, and I'm just imagining that it'd be much tougher on a 7', significantly higher volume board.


Cheers, will go check that board out.



I've lived in San Diego for 12 years now and have never surfed there or wanted to surf there haha.




22:52 (including washing out on the top turn, realistically) or 00:32. Man, that video gives me anxiety. No thanks on the crowd. At least that's how I'd LIKE to surf it. Don't know if I COULD.



Really good points, thank you! That was my worry - some of the boards recommended almost looked like Indo tube boards, and that's decidedly NOT what I'm talking about.




Mainly analysis paralysis and just getting inspiration and ideas for what other people ride in those conditions.
I don't know specifically what local shapers to turn to, since I've almost always just bought used boards off of Craigslist, normally from bigger brands.
The only custom board I've ever had shaped was actually a 6'0" Gary Hanel fish that is absolutely magic - fast, rippable, insanely fun. What it is NOT is a fast paddler. It feels like it's made of lead when paddling out, which is why Hanel didn't pop in my mind when thinking about a longer board that's a great paddler.

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I feel like I'd still have the issue of the paddle ability, no?
Why do you think it’s not a good paddler? The basic ingredients of good paddling are low rocker and length. It looks to have low rocker. So length? Why are paddle boards 12-18 feet long?

What I’ve learned during these weeks of swell is there is big difference between 8 foot and 12 foot plus (overhead vs double overhead) and they require different equipment. You have to decide which end of the spectrum you want to favor. Add the crowd factor and I’d say, if you want to snag the big ones, length is your friend. Overhead? 6-6 to 6-10. DOH+? 7-0 and up.

Another observation about big fat waves. You go really fast and you’re not on your rail like you would be trimming on a big steep wave. You have more of your bottom in contact with the water. I found there is so much lift on the bottom, it’s harder to push over onto your rail to turn compared to small waves. I think that’s why guns are narrow and usually have some vee.
 
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