South Swell

Boneroni

Tom Curren status
Mar 5, 2012
12,093
1,912
113
44
Goleta
Holy crap, those outriggers got rolled and dragged!

So jealous right now. Looks like chaotic fun
 

~rwright~

Michael Peterson status
Apr 14, 2015
2,528
955
113
Los Angeles~California!
stu dog said:
swell was very hit an miss in NLA this morning.
'Twas very fun, sooo many perfectly lined up right~handers at a spot further down the road
that faces 180° south, esh we had probable GWS jumped outta thee water with~in the last hour or so...
Simply bitchin' waves to be had at thee crack of dawn around 5:30am if you got up early here in L.A.!
Good angle, + it's buildin', yow~za!!!
L8z, RW
:wave2:
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
I was out when the canoes got swamped. I yelled at them to ditch their paddles we would help gather them. They didn’t. The surfers helped them huli the boats back and paddle out. It took awhile for them to bail the boat and paddle in. #4 must’ve been hurt cause he wasn’t paddling. The canoe closer to Magic Island didn’t take in as much water and reset faster. I talked to an older Hawaiian paddler. He said in his crew #5 is suppose to hold the paddles while the rest of the crew huli/flip the canoe back right. He said ah they never practice huli drills. I told him they got one live action drill. They were super lucky no one got seriously hurt and the ama didn’t break.
 

sponge

Tom Curren status
Feb 10, 2002
13,166
10,557
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Honolulu, HI, USA
Visit site
teeroi said:
I was out when the canoes got swamped. I yelled at them to ditch their paddles we would help gather them. They didn’t. The surfers helped them huli the boats back and paddle out. It took awhile for them to bail the boat and paddle in. #4 must’ve been hurt cause he wasn’t paddling. The canoe closer to Magic Island didn’t take in as much water and reset faster. I talked to an older Hawaiian paddler. He said in his crew #5 is suppose to hold the paddles while the rest of the crew huli/flip the canoe back right. He said ah they never practice huli drills. I told him they got one live action drill. They were super lucky no one got seriously hurt and the ama didn’t break.
That was pretty sketch out at Bowls. So awesome to see so many surfers help push the canoe out to sea. I got sucked out with the current afterward. Thanks for checking on me Troy (think was you). Went in after that.

Still was crowded.


I was scratching for the "channel" on this one. Check where the red buoy is. Look like you in front of me Troy.


Helping get the guys away from Big Bowl.
 

ratfink

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Jul 15, 2008
8,127
56
48
Texas Gulf de Mexico
teeroi said:
I was out when the canoes got swamped. I yelled at them to ditch their paddles we would help gather them. They didn’t. The surfers helped them huli the boats back and paddle out. It took awhile for them to bail the boat and paddle in. #4 must’ve been hurt cause he wasn’t paddling. The canoe closer to Magic Island didn’t take in as much water and reset faster. I talked to an older Hawaiian paddler. He said in his crew #5 is suppose to hold the paddles while the rest of the crew huli/flip the canoe back right. He said ah they never practice huli drills. I told him they got one live action drill. They were super lucky no one got seriously hurt and the ama didn’t break.


Good on everyone involved in the effort to help. I love how everyone comes running when it hits the fan in big swells.
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
Wade Tokoro on the heavy drop. He fell on a bomb and hurt his neck pretty good. Came back out and sent it on one of the buoy sets fell had his leash rip out of his board and had to swim across the channel looking for his board. A buddy he makes boards for helped him., I texted him to tell him I was sorry I didn’t see him swimming. Gotta keep a watch out for your friends when it gets heavy.

Yeah Neal I think I asked if you were ok and Christa too. Didn’t know how close the canoes came to you two.