Catching a wave the way you’ve done surfing for twenty years makes the foil go from 0-100 faster than a Tesla.
To catch a wave on a foil you want to try and catch the wave mid face or on a mushy shoulder. The reason crumbly white water takeoffs are easier is you get pushed mid face and don’t have to sea with the steepness from the very top of the wave. Remember a one foot wave with a two foot mast will feel like a five foot wave by the time it’s launching you. So a three foot wave will feel like nazare.
(Surfing you’re always looking for the steepest tallest part of the wave to get speed on the drop) with the foil you want to take off low if possible. Head mostly straight and get to the flats out in front of the wave. The foil is under your back foot and below you so even though it feels like you’re in the flats the wing is actually in a power source. Trimming down the line in the pocket mid face is difficult. Because the curve of the wave messes with the width of the foil wing. So that comes a bit later. Try to stay in front and along the flats. Not high in the face of the wave at first.
You’ve ridden some already so you probably realize slight movements have big rewards. Slow movements because it takes two feet of mast to get your movement to translate to the foil. And never lean over the high side of you can help it. Go where the foil wants to go at first. It leans left you go left. It’s trying to correct or overpower it when learning that gets you hurt.
Even if you fall and think you’re clear cover your head. Just saw a picture of a guy who had to get five staples in his head because he fell forward and his own foil ran him over.
To catch a wave on a foil you want to try and catch the wave mid face or on a mushy shoulder. The reason crumbly white water takeoffs are easier is you get pushed mid face and don’t have to sea with the steepness from the very top of the wave. Remember a one foot wave with a two foot mast will feel like a five foot wave by the time it’s launching you. So a three foot wave will feel like nazare.
(Surfing you’re always looking for the steepest tallest part of the wave to get speed on the drop) with the foil you want to take off low if possible. Head mostly straight and get to the flats out in front of the wave. The foil is under your back foot and below you so even though it feels like you’re in the flats the wing is actually in a power source. Trimming down the line in the pocket mid face is difficult. Because the curve of the wave messes with the width of the foil wing. So that comes a bit later. Try to stay in front and along the flats. Not high in the face of the wave at first.
You’ve ridden some already so you probably realize slight movements have big rewards. Slow movements because it takes two feet of mast to get your movement to translate to the foil. And never lean over the high side of you can help it. Go where the foil wants to go at first. It leans left you go left. It’s trying to correct or overpower it when learning that gets you hurt.
Even if you fall and think you’re clear cover your head. Just saw a picture of a guy who had to get five staples in his head because he fell forward and his own foil ran him over.