So if you go through life without being photographed…

GromsDad

Duke status
Jan 21, 2014
54,674
16,530
113
West of the Atlantic. East of the ICW.
I've probably taken 75,000 pictures of other people surfing but I only have about 25 of me.

Here's a random unknown rider. Perhaps he'll see this and have a picture to post. If anybody knows this guy I have a sequence of what might have been his best ride ever. It was one of the top 5 tube rides I've seen at my local and I've never seen the guy before or since.

22384255_10207707431802604_6732228157282034576_o.jpg
 
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SteveT

Phil Edwards status
Apr 11, 2005
5,902
2,516
113
I had ZERO pics of me until my first trip to El Salvador.
The place I stayed at had a local photog taking pics of the guests at Punta Mango.
I got a DVD of me surfing. MEH.
The only other time was my first road trip to Mainland Mex.
My buddy was shooting super 8 at Ticla, 5 or 6 rolls over the course of 6 weeks.
I couldn't wait to get home and watch them.
Took 'em to Save-On for development.
Got them back and had a bunch of friends over to watch.
Loaded the first roll and started the flick.
NOT OUR FILM! Some hippie bikers out in the desert with their gross flappy bag titted GFs.
Farkn' Save-ON lost our footage :foreheadslap:
 

sdsrfr

Phil Edwards status
Jul 13, 2020
5,945
11,420
113
San Diego
having pics can ruin the memory of a good session or wave. i hate seeing the missed opportunities.

if we all saw ourselves surfing a lot less people would consider themselves an intermediate.

i definitely think there is a limit to progression without filmed feedback.
 

hammies

Duke status
Apr 8, 2006
15,588
14,231
113
When I surf I try to have good style and flow as I pump down the line.
When I am photographed I look like I am standing there in some kind of goddam Waimea stance.

When I watch others surf, I like good style, flow, and power. Can't stand the big maneuvers, get air type of surfing.
When I photograph others surfing I love the big maneuvers and big airs. Photgraphing style is really hard to do well.

Photographs of surfing can be deceiving.
 

Subway

Administrator
Staff member
Dec 31, 2008
13,522
10,173
113
LBNY
for an average lifelong shortboarder I’ve developed a pretty decent stash of pics on everything from little fun days down the block to my avatar Pic. My arms are in the same position in 90% of them, no matter the year the pic was taken, wave size, :foreheadslap:

but also agree with the above…each pic or set of pics brings me right back to that session, that wave, that trip etc
 

sdsrfr

Phil Edwards status
Jul 13, 2020
5,945
11,420
113
San Diego
Video on the other hand tells no lies and in my case tells everyone how bad my style is. No thanks!!! :roflmao:
video can be brutal. only once have I seen a clip that looked better than it felt. but that had more to do with composing the small crowded summer day into an empty A-frame.

Mostly it’s the other way around - Wave size compressed and people paddling out on lines otherwise worth taking. And then finally yours truly goofing a turn or no spary on ones that felt good.
 
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Hump

Phil Edwards status
Jan 10, 2002
5,932
2,229
113
Vancouver Island
Here's the last photo ever taken of me surfing, and despite the pitiful little wave I'm on, this, to me, is a photo with a lot of meaning.
First, that head to the left and behind the wave belonged to my best pal and the guy who got me into surfing in the first place, in 1973. He is now R.I.P. and has been since 2011 and this was the last day he ever surfed.

Second, I seriously doubt anyone else on this planet has ever surfed this spot (or had ever) given it only produces little mush-burgers like this under very special and rare conditions.
This spot is on Moresby Island, near Sandspit in what is now called Haida Gwaii but was the Queen Charlotte Islands then, and it only broke because of a very high tide which allowed some residual swell from a howling southeast wind to go over the large bar that creates the "sandspit" a mile away to the east without breaking, and then travel across Shingle Bay to this little rock reef near the mouth of Haans Creek. Jack and I were actually going Coho fishing when we noticed this previously unseen little peak and decided to suit up and paddle out as he and his wife were leaving for Prince George to live so we figured one last go out together would be fun.
His second wife, Trish, took the photo, the last one of me surfing. 1990
Ironically, Jack's first wife, Karen, took the first photo of me ever surfing. 1973 and not shown here.

So, every picture does tell a story, don't it?



Last Wave Haans.jpg

As an aside, that board was a 9' square tail with a concave nose and shaped by Mickey Munoz.

My first board was a Bing, 9'6" David Nuuhiwa Noserider model, and I don't know who shaped it, nor who stole it off my van in broad daylight here in Campbell River, in 1973, but I can assure you, I'm still pissed off over that.



Take care.