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One my all time favorite photos of me turned out to not be me.…Did you really surf in your life?
video can be brutal. only once have I seen a clip that looked better than it felt. but that had more to do with composing the small crowded summer day into an empty A-frame.Video on the other hand tells no lies and in my case tells everyone how bad my style is. No thanks!!!
hey, you told me you were on the spectrum, and I…I believed you manthat reminds me of when you paddled me out on a 12' rescue board and you had your face in my ass for 15 minutes. good times.
Without surf photographers surfing would still be a minor activity like for example “Curling”.…Did you really surf in your life?