So how did your boards go with this last run of swell?

frontsidegrab

Billy Hamilton status
Dec 4, 2014
1,448
1,546
113
Bruce Lee got his ass kicked by a stunt double on one of his first days on a set.
That scene in Once Upon a Time in Hollywood was a direct reference to that event.
 

ReForest

Michael Peterson status
Oct 7, 2020
3,236
4,750
113
Bruce Lee got his ass kicked by a stunt double on one of his first days on a set.
That scene in Once Upon a Time in Hollywood was a direct reference to that event.
I've never heard any story about Bruce Lee getting his ass kicked. Once Upon a Time in Hollywood is a fictional movie. That fight seen never happened.
 
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santacruzin

Kelly Slater status
Oct 17, 2007
9,015
10,095
113
valley purgatory
Used to live off mesa lane. You learn to make the most of all conditions . so many mornings walking down those dam steps or skating to the other end of the block to walk out on the bluff and have a look.
Conning myself into sessions. "Oh that looks doable, thats a corner. It will get bigger, wind isnt that bad"
hahahah
Did score some mental sessions but cant imagine how crowded it gets now.Why film and post that? stupid.
 
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Duffy LaCoronilla

Duke status
Apr 27, 2016
39,133
28,686
113
Used to live off mesa lane. You learn to make the most of all conditions . so many mornings walking down those dam steps or skating to the other end of the block to walk out on the bluff and have a look.
Conning myself into sessions. "Oh that looks doable, thats a corner. It will get bigger, wind isnt that bad"
hahahah
Did score some mental sessions but cant imagine how crowded it gets now.Why film and post that? stupid.
Who posted Mesa lane?
 
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Duffy LaCoronilla

Duke status
Apr 27, 2016
39,133
28,686
113
Sorry general
Semi related/unrelated rant about exposing rare bird
Spots

I know it doesnt matter in this day an age
No it still matters.

I surf a spot that many people know about but few think about. I never ever even say the name of the place and have been surfing it virtually alone for over 30 years. Occasionally someone will show up and I tell them the same thing I said to the last guy...”never ever tell anyone you surfed here.”

So far so good.
 

Leaverite

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Dec 19, 2017
7,924
1,092
113
Central Cal
No it still matters.

I surf a spot that many people know about but few think about. I never ever even say the name of the place and have been surfing it virtually alone for over 30 years. Occasionally someone will show up and I tell them the same thing I said to the last guy...”never ever tell anyone you surfed here.”

So far so good.
You must be impressive.....never, ever, ever seen that tactic work anywhere else.
 
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freeride76

Michael Peterson status
Dec 31, 2009
3,412
4,264
113
Lennox Head.
No it still matters.

I surf a spot that many people know about but few think about. I never ever even say the name of the place and have been surfing it virtually alone for over 30 years. Occasionally someone will show up and I tell them the same thing I said to the last guy...”never ever tell anyone you surfed here.”

So far so good.
I've got a spot like that here too.

in this case a combo of swell and wind that works for it, that few consider. Everyone thinks of other spots.

it's an a grade spot.
 

Leaverite

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Dec 19, 2017
7,924
1,092
113
Central Cal
One of the absolute best big wave spots.

If the swell directions warrant it.

It can be 3' and perfect. A million tourists and me. Catching these little right barrels.