So how did your boards go with this last run of swell?

Duffy LaCoronilla

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Apr 27, 2016
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I just want to see what the workout guys above have to say.....strong opinions
I usually have to travel on foot for a mile or so to get to the wave so I’ll just jog it.

If i‘m parking closer I just move around a bit to get the kinks out. swing my arms around a bit (I got fucked up shoulders). Going straight from the car to paddling/duckdiving doesn’t agree with me.

Putting on a wetsuit and booties is sometimes all it takes if it’s cracking
 
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Duffy LaCoronilla

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Apr 27, 2016
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Fun fact: I had a surgeon's finger deep inside my asshole a month back, at which point he turns to his his colleague saying; "Yea, I can feel it's really tight in there".

Given that it was the most inappropriate thing to do at the time (because I can't help myself), I burst out laughing and chimed in with, "well, this girl often does her Kegels ... gotta keep my man happy!"
Youre dating a surgeon?

Baller.
 

Mr J

Michael Peterson status
Aug 18, 2003
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.. I’ll keep working on my flexibility doing things that include stretching movements because it helps with my range of motion and general mobility. ..
Duffy, me too, I agree with everything you said regarding stretching.

I used to do taekwondo which as you know is an acrobatic high kicking sport, I went on a stretching regimen (plus I used to it in in class too) and this greatly increased my hip flexibility. Attempting high kicks with limited hip mobility would have been asking for groin injuries.

I don't do that sport any more, but I have kept up on the hip mobility exercises because I think it can stop injury in other sports. For example I have had my front foot slip off the deck of my surfboard which put me in the semi splits position and I have got away without pulling anything. I have also had my back foot slip off the tail kick when trying a nollie on my skateboard and got away without injury - this is partly because I do everything at snails pace on a skateboard and surf at a really tame level, so I am not saying it makes me invincible.

I stretch calves and hip flexor after every surf on the beach (one stretch I know does both). I also stretch hamstring and adductor after every session on the beach (again one stretch I know does both -actually it does one of the calf muscles too). When I get home at some point in the day I will stretch ITB (because a physio has diagnosed I am prone to getting that tight due to flat feet) and hip flexor with one stretch lying on my side. Apart from some lower back stretches (and another adductuor stretch) that's all I do. I have settled on a set of stretches which do more than one muscle at a time because I don't want to spend all my life stretching!

What I have noticed is that immediately after a surf my calves are quite tight - maybe because lying prone on the board the feet are pointed. However sometimes like this morning I finish off my session by exchanging my surfboard with my skimboard which involves a lot of short brisk runs to jump on it. After skimming my calves are quite easy to stretch because they are warmed up from all the sand running - this is the best time to try and work on increasing the length of my calf muscle. Touch wood, it has been many years since I pulled a calf muscle.
 
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frontsidegrab

Billy Hamilton status
Dec 4, 2014
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ive been bending my feet by pushing down on the top of it making them point like a ballet dancer for years. I’m now almost impossible to submit with a straight foot lock. Why? Because my feet are unusually flexible. They got that way from years and years of bending them. My ankles are really strong as well.

Strength and flexibility has prevented my ankles from being broken on hundreds of occasions.
We’ll see about that! Straight ankle locks and ashi garami in general are my specialty.
I totally agree with you about flexibility in BJJ. Anyone that’s spent time rolling is going to quickly learn what an advantage flexibility is.
 
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Duffy LaCoronilla

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We’ll see about that! Straight ankle locks and ashi garami in general are my specialty.
I totally agree with you about flexibility in BJJ. Anyone that’s spent time rolling is going to quickly learn what an advantage flexibility is.
Like anything, if done correctly it will work.
 

rowjimmytour

Tom Curren status
Feb 7, 2009
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Everyone is different and age may play big part as well. I am almost 51 and stretch after work out but before I lift: each set (×6) I warm up with: jumprope, speed bag, box jump, double end bag, and heavy bag. After 6th set end with a litrle core and suicides then I stretch for 15 minutes.
 
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ReForest

Michael Peterson status
Oct 7, 2020
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It’s interesting what boards people gravitate towards when wave size gets to around DOH. I find the spot you mentioned has so many warbles and weird stuff going on, I’d prefer to be on something around my height to be able to react more quickly.

There’s recent video of the left about a mile south where a guy wearing a white helmet gets the job done on too long (IMO) of board and it just looks awkward.

I got an email that my Ghost is ready. Exactly five weeks, which I think is pretty good considering it was ordered before Christmas. I’m hoping this swell breather is short-lived.
You are right about the warble and weird stuff going on. It looks like a challenging spot. I think i saw the video you are talking about on the left. I think people generally oversize boards when bigger swells come. As long as it has some weight, i think you can still get away with smaller boards in big waves.
 
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ReForest

Michael Peterson status
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I think its weird that someone would say stretching doesnt help. Yoga is a form of stretching and many top surfers (Gerry Lopez, Kelly Slater, etc) have stated that Yoga has helped there surfing immensely.

Also, whenever someone has a muscle cramp, isnt stretching and massaging the muscle the most widely advised technique?
I usually do a light stretch before a surf... especially if you did a lot of drinking the night before and your muscles are tight. haha.
 

HSY

OTF status
Aug 15, 2011
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I think its weird that someone would say stretching doesnt help. Yoga is a form of stretching and many top surfers (Gerry Lopez, Kelly Slater, etc) have stated that Yoga has helped there surfing immensely.

Also, whenever someone has a muscle cramp, isnt stretching and massaging the muscle the most widely advised technique?
I usually do a light stretch before a surf... especially if you did a lot of drinking the night before and your muscles are tight. haha.
I think everyone on this thread has a diff idea about what stretching means to them. Kelly Slater has actually said that he never stretches, and by that he means static stretching. He does dynamic range of motion movements because he's a pro athlete and that's what his top end trainers tell him and their other pro clients to do and they would know. Brandon McDaniel, the Dodgers strength and conditioning coach would drop in on classes to talk through ideas with our morning class coach at my cross-fit and we didn't do static stretching (or yoga) either.

Kelly Slater also has a double-jointed back and apparently the ideal body proportions for surfing (which are apparently not the average human body proportions). There was a cool little article a while back (I think in outside magazine?) that analyzed the bodies of people who were really amazing at their sports.

Also, yoga is fine for a lot of people, but not for everyone. Too hard on the joints. I do similar stuff to yoga but everything is dynamic and I mix that with weights and rings and of course throw in some cardio (bike sprints, jump rope, runs or whatever). This has worked for me but it's different for everyone. I'm 48 with a desk job and a couple kids for context.

Also for this run of swell, mainly i've been searching out the 3-4' waves and riding my normal boards because my surf time is limited and that's what I like to surf these days.
 

casa_mugrienta

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Apr 13, 2008
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Petak Island

SlicedFeet

Miki Dora status
Dec 17, 2004
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Swarm Diego
It’s interesting what boards people gravitate towards when wave size gets to around DOH. I find the spot you mentioned has so many warbles and weird stuff going on, I’d prefer to be on something around my height to be able to react more quickly.

There’s recent video of the left about a mile south where a guy wearing a white helmet gets the job done on too long (IMO) of board and it just looks awkward.

I got an email that my Ghost is ready. Exactly five weeks, which I think is pretty good considering it was ordered before Christmas. I’m hoping this swell breather is short-lived.
Look forward to hearing your thoughts on the Ghost.

The one spot your talking about has no less than 10 cameras on it when it’s good now, with this year having the most coverage in history. No way do I want to deal with that. Plus cameras freak me out. I cringe everytime I see myself.

Everyspot has it’s own characteristics. It takes time to figure out what works best for you and the conditions. Lifelong and changing persuit. Good for shapers.

The mid-length board popularity really farked things up down here. Before when the “beginners” were on longboards, they’d paddle out and get in the way. The cool thing was the cleanup sets would always put them in their place and then they sit on the shoulders for a bit then go in. Now on the mid-length, they have a bit more courage but they are still in the way. AND THEY JUST GO STRAIGHT. I get it, everyone has to progress, but I saw a bunch of people on good waves that we don’t see very often, doing nothing. These aren’t older guys either, 20 year olds.

I think it‘s time to bring back shouting “Do Something,” then again, becareful what we wish for.
 

VonMeister

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Apr 26, 2013
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JOE BIDENS RAPE FINGER
I suppose while the stretching experts here are singing it's praises you could take the opportunity as experts to be specific about what type of stretching you are talking about. Static, Dynamic, Proprioceptive Neuromuscular Facilitative, CR or CRAC?

I'll wait.

But in the meantime you can read below article..you know...based on science and other fancy book learnen' stuff.



For the TL;DR crew

There was high‐quality evidence that stretch did not have clinically important effects on joint mobility in people with or without neurological conditions if performed for less than seven months. Sensitivity analyses indicate results were robust in studies at risk of selection and detection biases in comparison to studies at low risk of bias. Sub‐group analyses also suggest the effect of stretch is consistent in people with different types of neurological or non‐neurological conditions. The effects of stretchperformed for periods longer than seven months have not been investigated. There was moderate‐ and high‐quality evidence that stretch did not have clinically important short‐term effects on quality of life or pain in people with non‐neurological conditions, respectively. The short‐term effects of stretch on quality of life and pain in people with neurological conditions, and the short‐term effects of stretch on activity limitations and participation restrictions for people with and without neurological conditions are uncertain.