So how did your boards go with this last run of swell?

Duffy LaCoronilla

Duke status
Apr 27, 2016
30,249
17,852
113
El Capitain last 20+ years...
When I was a kid we’d drive right by good el cap, with nobody out, on the way to T’s because the driver was goofy foot and wanted to go left.

And anyone who knows knows that if el cap is breaking that other spot would be huge.

I’m this 15 year old kid on a 5’7 1980s twin fin in a 3/2 mid winter DOH + just trying to survive.
 
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rowjimmytour

Tom Curren status
Feb 7, 2009
10,779
5,071
113
52
Rbeach
When I was a kid we’d drive right by good el cap, with nobody out, on the way to T’s because the driver was goofy foot and wanted to go left.

And anyone who knows knows that if el cap is breaking that other spot would be huge.

I’m this 15 year old kid on a 5’7 1980s twin fin in a 3/2 mid winter DOH + just trying to survive.
Surfer let the cat out of the bag with spread of El Cap surfer Jeff Jaworkaski(sp) and dog on beach:)
 

ocean7847

Miki Dora status
Jun 23, 2004
4,759
233
63
the Injured Reserve
Any changes you’d want to make?

Any that skunked you while others were charging with ease?

Weight issues, eps/epoxy being too corky while trying to dig in while going fast?

Sounds like Pyzel and John John even had issues with the Padillac at monster Himalayas. Wonder how they’ll change that up.
very simple. i'm gonna need a bigger boat.

after years of feeling frustrated, I finally feel like i got my boards really dialed in. i'm 6'4" (6'3.5" if we're splitting hairs) and between 200-220 lbs (depending on 'how things are going') so it has been hard to find the right balance of length, width, foam, rocker, etc. i'm well aware of the adage that its "the archer, not the arrow," so i suppose i can take some mild satisfaction in my personal improvement in the water, and that i've overcome some solid injuries (hip surgery, shoulder surgery, hand surgery, foot surgery) and haven't lost too many steps.

my regular rotation is:
- a 6'0 Birges classic twin keel (GWS sold it to me in like '10? this thing rocks from waist high mush to DOH walls at the lane, i love it)
- a 6'0 M10 hogfish (hybrid fish/shortboard with 5 fin setup, ride it as quad + nub, best in waist-head high)
- a 6'0 T.Ross banshee (my daily driver shape [mimics the ghost i think], running as a thruster, waist-DOH)
- a 6'3" T.Ross banshee (same model, just longer, used as my step-up for better surf, head high to DOH+)
- a 6'6 M10 magic carpet (standard squash tail shortboard, used when the lane is maxed out and current is significant - a bit of a cheater board for less work during a session, loves a long fat point wave but surfs well in smaller surf as a "big guy tri")

i've had - but rarely surfed - a 6'7" campbell bros squash tail bonzer. its now at the repair shop to get a few minor glass cracks filled in so i can throw it in the water. i can only think of a few places where the waves would have the size and wall to warrant riding it, but i want to try it more often.

ultimately, i'd sold a 7'0 that was too small and never replaced it, and now i'm staring at a hole in my quiver for the bigger days and resenting myself for delaying it. i'm thinking something in the 7'6" range for the big days.

thats my issue
 

youcantbeserious

Gerry Lopez status
Oct 29, 2020
1,175
3,440
113
Location location
I have no idea how anyone can live in SB, the biggest tease in the World, then you start drinking. It wasn’t until I hit Brophy’s, then I saw it.
I think if you adjust your quiver and re-imagine what it can mean to have fun in the ocean, SB is one of the most magical stretches of coastline in the world to be a surfer. It's fickle, yes, but it has epic waves. You are an hour away north or south from more consistent surf if you are jonesing. But the aesthetic of the town, the history, the mountains, the weather, the cliffs, the islands... super jealous of the folks who grew up there or have had the good sense to make it their home and found a way to do it right. I love that place.
 

Duffy LaCoronilla

Duke status
Apr 27, 2016
30,249
17,852
113
I think if you adjust your quiver and re-imagine what it can mean to have fun in the ocean, SB is one of the most magical stretches of coastline in the world to be a surfer. It's fickle, yes, but it has epic waves. You are an hour away north or south from more consistent surf if you are jonesing. But the aesthetic of the town, the history, the mountains, the weather, the cliffs, the islands... super jealous of the folks who grew up there or have had the good sense to make it their home and found a way to do it right. I love that place.
It’s the best.