So how big's it gonna get Wed/Thurs/Fri on west coast?

Subway

Administrator
Staff member
Dec 31, 2008
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LBNY
Chicks always be bailing their boards and chit. Come on girl, give it a duck!
 

One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,214
10,420
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33.8N - 118.4W
So El Porto on free rotating Surfline feed. Why nobody out? Looked clean rights on cam.
At that size it's going to take a long time to get out, IF you can get out. Last week I watched smaller waves and saw a couple of guys attempt it. I watched for 20 minutes and then just felt bad for the guys. They had one window, after they had been battling for 10-15 minutes, there was a lull and I was thinking, "Sprint paddle NOW! You can make it! Go! Sprint!" But obviously they had no energy to sprint and before they made much progress a new set landed on them. That's when I left.
 

doc_flavonoid

Michael Peterson status
Dec 27, 2019
1,784
3,277
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At that size it's going to take a long time to get out, IF you can get out. Last week I watched smaller waves and saw a couple of guys attempt it. I watched for 20 minutes and then just felt bad for the guys. They had one window, after they had been battling for 10-15 minutes, there was a lull and I was thinking, "Sprint paddle NOW! You can make it! Go! Sprint!" But obviously they had no energy to sprint and before they made much progress a new set landed on them. That's when I left.
watched one my surf friends paddle the other day. younger guy in his prime. battle tested and on his game. think he's 34. lots of hours in mainland, chile etc no stranger to it.

apparently he'd been paddling for 35min when i showed up. took at least 15 more to make it out the back.

45 min later he still hadnt snagged a proper one. thats when i left.

said later other than a couple shoulders he got nothing

this starting to remind me 97-98. no sun for 28 consecutive days with measurable rainfall every damn one of them.

course if we get some pre AR, pre climate change 90's style bars out if it will be worth it. now if i can just get the wife's asss back there too...

then i'd been to somthin
 

CutnSnip

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2018
5,839
6,172
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Probably dropping in on you, California
watched one my surf friends paddle the other day. younger guy in his prime. battle tested and on his game. think he's 34. lots of hours in mainland, chile etc no stranger to it.

apparently he'd been paddling for 35min when i showed up. took at least 15 more to make it out the back.

45 min later he still hadnt snagged a proper one. thats when i left.

said later other than a couple shoulders he got nothing

this starting to remind me 97-98. no sun for 28 consecutive days with measurable rainfall every damn one of them.

course if we get some pre AR, pre climate change 90's style bars out if it will be worth it. now if i can just get the wife's asss back there too...

then i'd been to somthin
yea its no ocean beach and the currents not nearly as bad as say North side HB - it just keeps you stuck before the middle bar until your lucky enough to float into a rip and the waves youre taking on the head are juicy and square.
 

One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,214
10,420
113
33.8N - 118.4W
watched one my surf friends paddle the other day. younger guy in his prime. battle tested and on his game. think he's 34. lots of hours in mainland, chile etc no stranger to it.

apparently he'd been paddling for 35min when i showed up. took at least 15 more to make it out the back.

45 min later he still hadnt snagged a proper one. thats when i left.

said later other than a couple shoulders he got nothing

this starting to remind me 97-98. no sun for 28 consecutive days with measurable rainfall every damn one of them.

course if we get some pre AR, pre climate change 90's style bars out if it will be worth it. now if i can just get the wife's asss back there too...

then i'd been to somthin
Yep.

I forgot to mention this part- even if you could make it out, if you catch a good one that you can ride for a little distance, you kick out and the ordeal begins again. One wave session? On Monday ,at a reef with a "sometimes" channel, I only caught 4 waves. Another guy who made the mistake of bringng a 6-6 didn't catch anything and another guy only caught one wave, although it was a DOH+ bomb and was probably worth it.
 

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,110
22,953
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PNW
Attaboy! You deserve it after the summer/fall in the smoke.
Gracias. Best trip in a long time. Firing surf and good weather. Met some local mexi surfer kids and they took me to some new spots. 2 guys and 3 girls all piled into an old pickup. Smoking weed and blasting ranchero music and surfing. Great vibes.

On my way home now. Pissing rain, white knuckle freeway driving.

Gotta figure out how to pull an Ogre. This cold, wet sh!t is getting old.
 
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Senor Sopa

Billy Hamilton status
Mar 11, 2015
1,374
2,181
113
Ponto
[/QUOTE]
Seen dudes get washed from the outer reef spot north of there past BR. Nowhere to make safe landfall when the tide's high and there's swell.
[/QUOTE]
The crack just south of the shack...

1983, at the Rock, Mega swell, mega tide. The lifeguards told the surfers if they tried to come in, they would get arrested. They had to wait the tide out.