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Flat earth for sure bohter outHow far do ya reckon that oil platform is in the background?
It's almost as if the horizon line is in the wrong place
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Everybody must be watching red lee slap black lee around in the parking lot...So El Porto on free rotating Surfline feed. Why nobody out? Looked clean rights on cam.
At that size it's going to take a long time to get out, IF you can get out. Last week I watched smaller waves and saw a couple of guys attempt it. I watched for 20 minutes and then just felt bad for the guys. They had one window, after they had been battling for 10-15 minutes, there was a lull and I was thinking, "Sprint paddle NOW! You can make it! Go! Sprint!" But obviously they had no energy to sprint and before they made much progress a new set landed on them. That's when I left.So El Porto on free rotating Surfline feed. Why nobody out? Looked clean rights on cam.
watched one my surf friends paddle the other day. younger guy in his prime. battle tested and on his game. think he's 34. lots of hours in mainland, chile etc no stranger to it.At that size it's going to take a long time to get out, IF you can get out. Last week I watched smaller waves and saw a couple of guys attempt it. I watched for 20 minutes and then just felt bad for the guys. They had one window, after they had been battling for 10-15 minutes, there was a lull and I was thinking, "Sprint paddle NOW! You can make it! Go! Sprint!" But obviously they had no energy to sprint and before they made much progress a new set landed on them. That's when I left.
yea its no ocean beach and the currents not nearly as bad as say North side HB - it just keeps you stuck before the middle bar until your lucky enough to float into a rip and the waves youre taking on the head are juicy and square.watched one my surf friends paddle the other day. younger guy in his prime. battle tested and on his game. think he's 34. lots of hours in mainland, chile etc no stranger to it.
apparently he'd been paddling for 35min when i showed up. took at least 15 more to make it out the back.
45 min later he still hadnt snagged a proper one. thats when i left.
said later other than a couple shoulders he got nothing
this starting to remind me 97-98. no sun for 28 consecutive days with measurable rainfall every damn one of them.
course if we get some pre AR, pre climate change 90's style bars out if it will be worth it. now if i can just get the wife's asss back there too...
then i'd been to somthin
Yep.watched one my surf friends paddle the other day. younger guy in his prime. battle tested and on his game. think he's 34. lots of hours in mainland, chile etc no stranger to it.
apparently he'd been paddling for 35min when i showed up. took at least 15 more to make it out the back.
45 min later he still hadnt snagged a proper one. thats when i left.
said later other than a couple shoulders he got nothing
this starting to remind me 97-98. no sun for 28 consecutive days with measurable rainfall every damn one of them.
course if we get some pre AR, pre climate change 90's style bars out if it will be worth it. now if i can just get the wife's asss back there too...
then i'd been to somthin
Attaboy! You deserve it after the summer/fall in the smoke.I took your advice before it was your advice.
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Gracias. Best trip in a long time. Firing surf and good weather. Met some local mexi surfer kids and they took me to some new spots. 2 guys and 3 girls all piled into an old pickup. Smoking weed and blasting ranchero music and surfing. Great vibes.Attaboy! You deserve it after the summer/fall in the smoke.
Everyone is on giant boards these days. I surfed a point today (not that one) about that size with 3 other guys out. They all had 8ft + guns. I was on a 5’11 Twinsman and it was the right board.
I know a place.Lot of sand moving into the ocean .. hoping for bars in the future.