I think what I actually enjoy is the endless mockery and taunting we endure
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I think what I actually enjoy is the endless mockery and taunting we endure
i had the drill thru skull for a sinus infection from malibu that nothing worked on. so gnarly the nurse lost her sh!t and wqlked out mid procedureSurfing a certain river mouth in epic chocolate milk tubes one flood year, I got sick. I got a sinus infection that they couldn't kill. Which doesn't sound that bad, but I couldn't even tie my shoes. Felt like my head was going to blow up. Months this went on. I was crying to my Doc and he told me that considering how long I have surfed I should have known better. Told me he was treating five other local surfers for Hep.
We were down to trying one more oral antibiotic. The next step was to drill through my skull, flush my sinuses and apply a topical antibiotic to the insides of my sinuses. The last antibiotic finally worked. My winter was pretty much over however.
The waves were insane. Sit in the tube forever. The light would shut down because the water was opaque. The left was cleaner in terms of water due to the direction of the current, but the rights. So good. I went into the bottom on one wave and my legs went into the fresh muck up to my knees. I had to struggle to get free. Trees, dead cows, dead rattlesnakes, half sunk 50 gallon drums of who-knows-what drifting by. Good times...
that era died out in the 80’z bruhLittle known fact.…
Im a mod here too. Not even the other mods know this.
It’s so super secret that even though I’m telling you all right now that I’m a mod, still nobody knows that I’m a mod.
She can mock and taunt me all she wants, provided she can wield that crop as well as she poses with it
I'll let him know you are interested.She can mock and taunt me all she wants, provided she can wield that crop as well as she poses with it
There was a '77 swell where it smoked south of the river mouth. Piles of clumps of reeds and vegetation that got washed down the creek onto the beach. Perfect draining sandbar.I remember watching - I think it was Tom Curren surf waves like that at Doheny during one of the 97 storms. That DOHO sandbar was reeling beyond belief. I also couldn't believe someone was out there in that toxic soup. The water was literally black.
Also - why isn't anyone out at Sharp Park?
I hear Duffy also makes electric boats in Newport Beach.that era died out in the 80’z bruh
How tall is that pier at Sharp Park? Waves are washing over it outside.High tide is at 9am at 5'.
I think someone is going to get sucked out to sea today when it switches. Going to be a fast moving river flushing right into 20' walls of whitewater.
One of the last breakthrough sandbar years, it was soooo good. And it was largely empty one day. The rights, it was a guaranteed tube fest. I couldn't stand it. I jumped into my wetsuit and ran down the beach. I almost jumped in further to the north (of the river mouth) to let the current carry me through the mouth to the south side muddy rights. But for some reason I walked right up to the bank of the river. You could smell the sh!t and chemicals. It was like in a mist hanging over the place. It was disgusting.There was a '77 swell where it smoked south of the river mouth. Piles of clumps of reeds and vegetation that got washed down the creek onto the beach. Perfect draining sandbar.
We went to uppers the next day and floated down the creek from about half way down the bike path to the lagoon, which was giant and full of the same clumps. About half way across the lagoon a very large rattle snake slid off of a pile and started swimming towards us. Motor city to the beach side.
You can surf Doran Beach up in Bodega during the bigliest swells of the year. I'm sure Daily surfed there on those days. I've surfed within 100 yards of the furthest jetty to the west. That portion of the beach actually faces east.I meant Bodega.
Doran Beach might be best on storm swellI'll draw the ire of peeps on here and zero fvcks are given. The Dale Webster story is the biggest load of crap perpetuated in the surfing world and shame on any of you for believing it.
Whenever we get these massive swells, with heavy water, rain, and wind - not to mention chilly water where he lives - we are supposed to believe that this pudgy dude caught at least 3 waves a day for whatever the number he claims (unsubstantiated).
star bar!Surfing a certain river mouth in epic chocolate milk tubes one flood year, I got sick. I got a sinus infection that they couldn't kill. Which doesn't sound that bad, but I couldn't even tie my shoes. Felt like my head was going to blow up. Months this went on. I was crying to my Doc and he told me that considering how long I have surfed I should have known better. Told me he was treating five other local surfers for Hep.
We were down to trying one more oral antibiotic. The next step was to drill through my skull, flush my sinuses and apply a topical antibiotic to the insides of my sinuses. The last antibiotic finally worked. My winter was pretty much over however.
The waves were insane. Sit in the tube forever. The light would shut down because the water was opaque. The left was cleaner in terms of water due to the direction of the current, but the rights. So good. I went into the bottom on one wave and my legs went into the fresh muck up to my knees. I had to struggle to get free. Trees, dead cows, dead rattlesnakes, half sunk 50 gallon drums of who-knows-what drifting by. Good times...