So how big's it gonna get Wed/Thurs/Fri on west coast?

JDJ

Miki Dora status
Mar 1, 2014
4,881
5,179
113
The OC
Seeing as a may be one of the few members of this forum with steady employment, I trust you gentlemen will catch some waves for us working stiffs on Friday, and that you will pour out some malt liquor in the Swamis parking lot while holding your second hand Pearson Arrow Mavs gun under your arm.
 

Sharky

Phil Edwards status
Feb 25, 2006
7,059
9,440
113
:devilish: ;)

I'm going to go beat the living sh!t out of myself with kettlebells now, then go see Avatar and afterwards head over to the POLITICS forum and read the same people trading the same empty platitudes day after day after day after day after day...

just another day in paradise!
 

Havoc

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
May 23, 2016
7,784
12,385
113
in da hood next to paradise
Surfing a certain river mouth in epic chocolate milk tubes one flood year, I got sick. I got a sinus infection that they couldn't kill. Which doesn't sound that bad, but I couldn't even tie my shoes. Felt like my head was going to blow up. Months this went on. I was crying to my Doc and he told me that considering how long I have surfed I should have known better. Told me he was treating five other local surfers for Hep.

We were down to trying one more oral antibiotic. The next step was to drill through my skull, flush my sinuses and apply a topical antibiotic to the insides of my sinuses. The last antibiotic finally worked. My winter was pretty much over however.

The waves were insane. Sit in the tube forever. The light would shut down because the water was opaque. The left was cleaner in terms of water due to the direction of the current, but the rights. So good. I went into the bottom on one wave and my legs went into the fresh muck up to my knees. I had to struggle to get free. Trees, dead cows, dead rattlesnakes, half sunk 50 gallon drums of who-knows-what drifting by. Good times...
i had the drill thru skull for a sinus infection from malibu that nothing worked on. so gnarly the nurse lost her sh!t and wqlked out mid procedure
 

Subway

Administrator
Staff member
Dec 31, 2008
13,539
10,197
113
LBNY
OMG the Adam's Apple. How could i miss that

Not necessarily a deal breaker, but, the devil is in the details i guess
 

ElOgro

Duke status
Dec 3, 2010
32,154
12,145
113
I remember watching - I think it was Tom Curren surf waves like that at Doheny during one of the 97 storms. That DOHO sandbar was reeling beyond belief. I also couldn't believe someone was out there in that toxic soup. The water was literally black.
Also - why isn't anyone out at Sharp Park?
There was a '77 swell where it smoked south of the river mouth. Piles of clumps of reeds and vegetation that got washed down the creek onto the beach. Perfect draining sandbar.

We went to uppers the next day and floated down the creek from about half way down the bike path to the lagoon, which was giant and full of the same clumps. About half way across the lagoon a very large rattle snake slid off of a pile and started swimming towards us. Motor city to the beach side.
 

r32

Administrator
Staff member
Apr 1, 2005
18,107
9,789
113
Cambria
High tide is at 9am at 5'.

I think someone is going to get sucked out to sea today when it switches. Going to be a fast moving river flushing right into 20' walls of whitewater.
 

Sharky

Phil Edwards status
Feb 25, 2006
7,059
9,440
113
There was a '77 swell where it smoked south of the river mouth. Piles of clumps of reeds and vegetation that got washed down the creek onto the beach. Perfect draining sandbar.

We went to uppers the next day and floated down the creek from about half way down the bike path to the lagoon, which was giant and full of the same clumps. About half way across the lagoon a very large rattle snake slid off of a pile and started swimming towards us. Motor city to the beach side.
One of the last breakthrough sandbar years, it was soooo good. And it was largely empty one day. The rights, it was a guaranteed tube fest. I couldn't stand it. I jumped into my wetsuit and ran down the beach. I almost jumped in further to the north (of the river mouth) to let the current carry me through the mouth to the south side muddy rights. But for some reason I walked right up to the bank of the river. You could smell the sh!t and chemicals. It was like in a mist hanging over the place. It was disgusting.

I walked back, my wetsuit full of sweat, and pulled it off. Defeated.

Adulting is hard.
 

Driftcoast

Michael Peterson status
Aug 5, 2002
3,467
957
113
I'll draw the ire of peeps on here and zero fvcks are given. The Dale Webster story is the biggest load of crap perpetuated in the surfing world and shame on any of you for believing it.

Whenever we get these massive swells, with heavy water, rain, and wind - not to mention chilly water where he lives - we are supposed to believe that this pudgy dude caught at least 3 waves a day for whatever the number he claims (unsubstantiated).
Doran Beach might be best on storm swell

1672941346422.png
 
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santacruzin

Kelly Slater status
Oct 17, 2007
9,009
10,075
113
valley purgatory
Surfing a certain river mouth in epic chocolate milk tubes one flood year, I got sick. I got a sinus infection that they couldn't kill. Which doesn't sound that bad, but I couldn't even tie my shoes. Felt like my head was going to blow up. Months this went on. I was crying to my Doc and he told me that considering how long I have surfed I should have known better. Told me he was treating five other local surfers for Hep.

We were down to trying one more oral antibiotic. The next step was to drill through my skull, flush my sinuses and apply a topical antibiotic to the insides of my sinuses. The last antibiotic finally worked. My winter was pretty much over however.

The waves were insane. Sit in the tube forever. The light would shut down because the water was opaque. The left was cleaner in terms of water due to the direction of the current, but the rights. So good. I went into the bottom on one wave and my legs went into the fresh muck up to my knees. I had to struggle to get free. Trees, dead cows, dead rattlesnakes, half sunk 50 gallon drums of who-knows-what drifting by. Good times...
star bar! :toilet::drowning:
 
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