So how big's it gonna get Wed/Thurs/Fri on west coast?

Duffy LaCoronilla

Duke status
Apr 27, 2016
39,070
28,563
113
Got my 7-6" ready for the harbor. :toilet:

Every surf spot north of Santa Barbara to SF and beyond will be overwhelmed by this swell as usual. Only a handful of deep water reefs will be doable, and the rain/wind will probably wreck those too. SB will the place to be and why so many guys from CC travel down the coast on every big swell.
Fuuuuuuuuuccccccccckkkkkk!!!!!!!
 

gbg

Miki Dora status
Jan 22, 2006
3,928
3,467
113
I am on the Delmarva and no fucks given anout the sh!t brown storm water, wind and closeouts on most of the west coast. Been ballz deep since Christmas. Every day.
 
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Sharkbiscuit

Duke status
Aug 6, 2003
26,579
19,498
113
Jacksonville Beach
I am on the Delmarva and no fucks given anout the sh!t brown storm water, wind and closeouts on most of the west coast. Been ballz deep since Christmas. Every day.
Water's 57 in The Duval. You are freezing your ballz off and trying to pretend you have the high ground.

Spoiler: Obi Wan chops your legs off and walks away.
 
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mundus

Duke status
Feb 26, 2018
37,138
16,241
113
Water's 57 in The Duval. You are freezing your ballz off and trying to pretend you have the high ground.

Spoiler: Obi Wan chops your legs off and walks away.
First time I have ever hard anyone flexxing about being on the EC. Balls deep?I guess Delmarva is a wave magnet because it is flat in nj.
 

One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,205
10,411
113
33.8N - 118.4W
It's rare that I feel, "Damn, I need a break from all this swell." It's a lot better "problem" than flat spells, that's for sure.

I had another great session today. Much smaller than last week. Pre-swell feelers for later this week?

Checked it and there were only two people out. Eventually there were 5 other people, but, as is common, only two knew what they were doing. But I'm re-thinking (again) the board I'm shaping for the spot. Since I surf mid week, mid day the crowd has not been an issue (on a weekend morning with the same conditions you would have 30-40 + people out). My thinking was design the board for the wave not the crowd. But I realized this morning that on a lully swell, two competent longboarders can ruin your day. The two would set up outside me (I was on a 7-4) and pretty much never failed to get the good set waves. I still had fun ones, but they were the shoulder high ones, not the head high+ ones.

It was still a pretty magic session. There was a double, double rainbow situation the whole time. The principal rainbow had two full spectrums. Then there was also a 1/4 of a second rainbow. After catching a right, on the paddle back to the lineup, the people in the lineup were perfectly situated under the rainbows. Would have made a great photo.

I snapped these photos after I got out. The tide was dropping and the right channel was starting to close (in the second photo, the right will close out). Only the small rights peeled. The lefts were still good. The rainbow was still there but not as intense (no double spectrum)

IMG_9646.JPGIMG_3404.JPGIMG_6499.JPGIMG_7697.JPG
 
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One-Off

Tom Curren status
Jul 28, 2005
14,205
10,411
113
33.8N - 118.4W
Big Sur is already holding. Where's Steak surfing? Wonder what Friday will look like up there?

Screenshot 2023-01-03 at 4.25.58 PM.png



I have to get a colonoscopy Thursday. Can I surf on Friday? I don't remember any after effects.
 
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