RIP Surfwordz!!!

Subway

Administrator
Staff member
Dec 31, 2008
13,522
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LBNY
Ah man I was not ready for this. thats Heart breaking. rip wordz :(
 

92122

Michael Peterson status
Jul 29, 2015
2,608
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I remember some of his posts, even though I’m kind of a newb. Damn.
Is that pic of him..??.. Looks like Maui..??..
 
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gbg

Miki Dora status
Jan 22, 2006
3,937
3,481
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What?
No.........
Rest in peace brother.

Wordz made my first trip to Hawaii epic. Really hooked me up. Lots of aloha I'll never forget.
 
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nrthcty

Gerry Lopez status
Jun 30, 2009
1,172
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N.S.D
RIP - part of the old school, always enjoyed his posts. life can sometimes suck but death sucks more
 
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SlicedFeet

Miki Dora status
Dec 17, 2004
4,745
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Swarm Diego
FarrkkkN’aaaa.

That cat was a kat...loved reading his stories. Loved the life.

Hardest part was when Nep or someother OG put up a post years back wondering if any erBber’s have kicked the can yet. We all held our breath and looked over our shoulders, now we are starting to drop.

live it up.
 

Rickoray

Tom Curren status
Feb 10, 2007
10,631
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48
SOC CA
Death affects the living in many different ways but affects the dead in the same way!
Been tuned out for too long!
 

SlicedFeet

Miki Dora status
Dec 17, 2004
4,745
981
113
Swarm Diego
Well, FNA...SurfDad,

Did the Brazilian outlast the Big Screen TV?

High Tide or Low Tide...what's your preference of hanging these days?
 

surf cat

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Jan 14, 2002
7,943
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48
Was I only dreaming? I could have sworn I cut'n'paste a post from surf words
 

SurfFuerteventura

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Sep 20, 2014
8,447
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Ribbit
SurfFuerteventura
Dec 31, 2015
so sad to hear about your recent troubles my brother. only thing that did bring a smile to my worried face was that your daugter is now ok (and all the stronger for it surely) and that you sound to be recovering too.

sounds like your health issues were REALLY serious man. FUUUUUCK!!!

i just had my back "fixed" this past february. turns out it was broken for the past 4 years and i have been surfing and gardening with a fuggin broken back!!! can you believe that sh!t? fuggin crazy huh? i am with you on yhe near death experience too homie, unfortunately, but i had an intestinal collapse after my surgery. not newrly as bad as what you went through but it looked like i wasn't gonna make it for about 24 hours. my whole digestive system basically thought i was dead from the invasivness of the back surgery, and it refused ro start working again. they were feeding me intravenously and making me sh!t through a tube in my nose and another one in my ass... yes, IN MY NOSE!!! a fuggin porous tube that was literally sucking sh!t out of my intestine, up my esofagous (sp?) and into my respiratory tube then out my nose... believe it or not, that was the worst part for me, at one point i wished i WAS dead just so i could stop having the discomfort of that hucking nasty ass situation draining out my nose... omg it was SO FUCKED. i apparently tried to pulll the tubes out and was super aggresive to one of the nurses, who the fook knows i can only remember the sh!t dripping out my nose... hahahaha! its actually funny erBB kine now, but fuggg if that wasn't the grossest thing i have ever known about. at any rate, i am back in the surf again... just got myself a new 8'3'' x 22'' x 3 1/4'' thick and heavy pintail... to compensate foor the last ten months of sitting around healing my back and no surfing.

i sure hope oyu keep getting better brother and that this sh!t reaches you in HIGH SPIRITS!!!

i send you ALL of my love.

your brother, always!
pedro
 

SurfFuerteventura

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Sep 20, 2014
8,447
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surfwordz
Jan 31, 2016
Howzit Pedro, man, {TubeMastah! ) Brah thats so heavy that you were going thru all that at the same time as me. Really glad that youre o.k. and back in the water {main ting, yeah?}.

Surfing is the best healer there is. It gave me something to look forward to and the motivation to get thru some tough times. Ive been meaning to write you but I just really have a hard time typing. Not just cuz I can only type with one finger, its that I cant sit for very long before I start getting crazy spazms from the fatiuge of having a huge slab of skin chopped from the body. Its so numb the area were the scars is. its something you never get used to its hard to explain. Its kinda my fault though, the day I was released from the hospital I had an accident at home {shaving in the bathroom I fainted and my daughter came in an saved me by calling 911. They said I fainted a few more times trying to make it to the couch in the living room. I tore the scars open and it took way longer to heal. The plastic Surgeon that fixed me is a dick. He wont even talk to me because he wanted me to stay another week in the hospital but I talked him out of it. I dont know what to do, its still kinda messed up but I can deal with it for the most part, I stopped taking any meds a week before I got out of the hospital because the had me on morphine and othre gnarly stuff, I wanted to heal naturally and not be hooked on any pills or anything. I still dont smoke cigs {over 2 and a 1/2 years now }.

I been surfing alot tring to get my rythm back but I suck. Its like learning how to surf all over again sometimes. Especially when everyday you surf with "The greatest freesurfer in the world" according to tracks mags newest cover.
Man, I got some stories to tell you about surfing since Ive been back Ive gotta get back to you later on my wife just got home and Im gonna go check the surf {new swell late today}.

Aloha
 

SurfFuerteventura

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Sep 20, 2014
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SurfFuerteventura
Feb 1, 2016
larry i know what you mean, and thankfully i have pretty much put the episode behind me for the most part.
i hope you are able to get your ducks in a row wiht the healing man, it's so important. i took a year off of everything, except growwing this summer and surfing, in order to let myself heal up.... no tthat i really had the luxury to do so and economically/financially it almost ruined us... but i have to say that i am glad i did it, no matter what, even if we end up losing our house, it's more important to be healthy than anything else... as a matter of fact, to me it is the first of the three things i focus my entire life upon... HEALTH, LOVE AND HAPPINESS! if you have ose three, nothing else matters cause your life is full. you could be the poorest person on earth esting from a gutter, as long as you are healthy, happy and have love in your life? what else is there...

i did the opposite of you in term of the drugs, and this despite having hepatitis C. i figured that fook it, with all the recreational drugs i have pumped into myself over the years... what's a few prescription meds taken under a doctors orders gonna do? as a matter of fact, i am still taking an nsaids (antiinflamatory) and some sleeping pills (lemons, qualudes type stuff) under prescription... only i do not take them regularly. i use e antiinflamatory when i get in the water too many days in a row for how rehabilitated i am, and the sleeping pills about twice a month to ensure i get a GOOD NIGHT SLEEP! cause that sh!t is so important. lately i have a lot of trouble with insomnia... i sleep, but my schedule is really out of whack and every once in a while a good night of sleep outs it back in check again,

dude, you have to focus on yourself larry. forget about clay man, he's on another planet and is way younger than you... no way you gonna keep up with that, as a matter of fact? you prolly gonna hurt yourself trying!!! stay true to you man. you ar not your current situation, but you have to accept that it is your reality. stay focused on it so you can grow out of it, bu tnot so much that you obsess too much about it... and do it for your lady and your chilluns man! anything one does for ones self ends up gooing wrong.... but when you do things putting someone else first like your family, nothing bad can come of that as long as you stay healthy, happy and focused on that love.

surfing is important, but there are more important things in life. lately i am trying to be like gerry lopez and strive for sen and tao. been listening to a lot of recordings of allan watts tallking about the tao and the i-ching. it really resonantes with me for some reason and puts me in a really peacful place. bottomline, i only surf lately when the conditions a good. the rest of the time i focus on other stuff, my wife, my house, my dogs, my friends, etc... that is what keeps me happiest.

i LOVE YOU man! no gay code intended... hahahaha!
pedro
 

SurfFuerteventura

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Sep 20, 2014
8,447
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Ribbit
surfwordz
Feb 11, 2016
Ho brah sorry couldnt post up like I promised. but the waves were firing again. I been scoring some good sessions at the Bay the past few days. I actually even got some bombs {West bowl cave breaks so far outside got a few that noone else could get) with my old messed up azz. Speaking of my azz. heres a few pics of it after the operations. THere pretty gross so watch out, yeah? It took me two months of healing before I could even look at the pictures because of how psycological
the effects would be.
 

SurfFuerteventura

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Sep 20, 2014
8,447
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Ribbit
Brah, you are right about Clay being from a different planet. The fact is noone can keep up with him all we can do is enjoy the show and keep an eye on him make sure he dont get hurt like he is right now. About 2 weeks ago he sprained his ankle doing a huge air landing on the roof of the barrel and compressed his foot. Shirts all puffy still and hes frothing to surf so bad. Since he usually picks me up to go surf, I nowcome pick him up just to cruise and get him outta the house so he can heal faster.

He just tried surfed yesterday first time but its still super tender he said. Hes going to west OZ on monday just so he doesnt get tempted to surfreal waves on it until its healed. Man I really feel bad for him cuz he was really surfing unreal lately. A few that come to mind are the evening that Slater was here surfing the Bay, we were around the corner at the left with noone out.

He said he got a text from Matt Meola and Kelly Slater .that they are coming to surf with us. He talked me into paddling out and it was the most scared ive been in a few months {{a few other gnarly near-death exp. also a few months back}.I only caught a few smaller ones and went in a and filmed Clay with his little video camera getting 8 to 10 footers all by himself just putting on a clinic cause he thought Slater might be watching.

It was pretty heavy to witness just him in waves so dangerous. He asked me later why I went in ealy was I scared, I said "Hell Yeah I was scared"

Then two days later he hurt his foot in similar sized surf {when he got hurt it was just me him and another friend ours Taylor V. helped carry him up the rocks and I drove us back home. I really appreciate him helping get me going again so I feel its the least I can do to help him get better.

WEre pretty much best friends now. When he gets back in town its like he never left and we pick up and go.

Hes always offering to film me surf when hes hurt and hes really generous giving me clothes and leashes and stuff I need., but my skillz just aint camera worthy anymore. I might get one or two good ones a session, but nothing spectacular. Speaking of which, he just called me just now its 05:15am were gonna go surf somewhere ill be back later to finish typing this up alright..shoots.


Aloha brah