SurfFuerteventura
Feb 1, 2016
larry i know what you mean, and thankfully i have pretty much put the episode behind me for the most part.
i hope you are able to get your ducks in a row wiht the healing man, it's so important. i took a year off of everything, except growwing this summer and surfing, in order to let myself heal up.... no tthat i really had the luxury to do so and economically/financially it almost ruined us... but i have to say that i am glad i did it, no matter what, even if we end up losing our house, it's more important to be healthy than anything else... as a matter of fact, to me it is the first of the three things i focus my entire life upon... HEALTH, LOVE AND HAPPINESS! if you have ose three, nothing else matters cause your life is full. you could be the poorest person on earth esting from a gutter, as long as you are healthy, happy and have love in your life? what else is there...
i did the opposite of you in term of the drugs, and this despite having hepatitis C. i figured that fook it, with all the recreational drugs i have pumped into myself over the years... what's a few prescription meds taken under a doctors orders gonna do? as a matter of fact, i am still taking an nsaids (antiinflamatory) and some sleeping pills (lemons, qualudes type stuff) under prescription... only i do not take them regularly. i use e antiinflamatory when i get in the water too many days in a row for how rehabilitated i am, and the sleeping pills about twice a month to ensure i get a GOOD NIGHT SLEEP! cause that sh!t is so important. lately i have a lot of trouble with insomnia... i sleep, but my schedule is really out of whack and every once in a while a good night of sleep outs it back in check again,
dude, you have to focus on yourself larry. forget about clay man, he's on another planet and is way younger than you... no way you gonna keep up with that, as a matter of fact? you prolly gonna hurt yourself trying!!! stay true to you man. you ar not your current situation, but you have to accept that it is your reality. stay focused on it so you can grow out of it, bu tnot so much that you obsess too much about it... and do it for your lady and your chilluns man! anything one does for ones self ends up gooing wrong.... but when you do things putting someone else first like your family, nothing bad can come of that as long as you stay healthy, happy and focused on that love.
surfing is important, but there are more important things in life. lately i am trying to be like gerry lopez and strive for sen and tao. been listening to a lot of recordings of allan watts tallking about the tao and the i-ching. it really resonantes with me for some reason and puts me in a really peacful place. bottomline, i only surf lately when the conditions a good. the rest of the time i focus on other stuff, my wife, my house, my dogs, my friends, etc... that is what keeps me happiest.
i LOVE YOU man! no gay code intended... hahahaha!
pedro