Any fall inside top to bottom shaped barrels is just a numbers game. You're going to bounce off the bottom and you're probably going to come into contact with your board. from time to time.
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RIP Mikala Jones
- Thread starter Truth
- Start date
I dunno how surfers made it through the 70s single fins without more casualty. Especially on the late drops which are tough on single fins. I couldnt imagine tube riding with a sword on the back of your board.
Honestly, it's all pretty fvckin dangerous when the waves are double overhead and barreling over a shallow reef. There are so many daily surfers that just don't encounter those conditions more than once or twice a year, if ever. When conditions get like that, the risk factor goes up considerably.
One of the friends I went to indo with was still out there and staying at the resort next to Mikala. He surfed a different spot that day and said it was good sized but not a huge.
He wasnt sure what spot Mikala was surfing, but heard somewhere by telescopes and scarecrows area.
When I was at my peak in my late twenties I pulled into a square frontside barrel in Puerto Rico that Hawaiians would call 8-feet. Went up and over inside the tube and slammed into the reef in a sitting position. Everything went tingly and the wind was knocked out of me like never before. I'm still amazed that I didn't wind up dead or crippled with how hard I hit. Had I landed on my head instead of my ass there is no way that impact would have been survivable.
this is me. I'm competent and confident enough to go out and catch big-ish critical waves at heavy spots, but, it's not like I grew up in waves of consequence.
That's not going to stop me. But i do try to approach sessions like that with some humility (Kauai, Tavarua, large days in Rincon/Aguadilla, Colorado can get heavy with that shallow sandbar, those sort of trips)
allegedly a kook on longboard who ditched his board was involved
Who got paid to transport and send the the guy out in conditions well above his skill level?
You gotta be sh!ttn me. I said to my pops when the news broke, there’s more to this story. Super weird situation for your own board to hit between knee and hip. As a husband and father of four, I can’t imagine leaving this pale blue dot “early”.
I hope the family is finding peace & solace.
Oh man… it was terrible news without hearing this….
RIP Mikala, I surfed with you, or at least I was in the line me up too, once at Sanur.. it was back in 2011 and I it was cranking that day….and seeing you there meant that was definitely theee spot that day. Each time I saw you take off, you effortlessly dropped in stalling super stylishly, and really high up on the face, hand dragging and crouched allowing the barrel to slowly start to throw almondy near top before opening up top to bottom placing deep and now standing straight up right from the start… so sick… so dialed, and completely composed on some truly meaty and throaty barrels…. What a memory that was….
Aloha, and my sincere condolences to his family and many friends. What a legend…
Not at all weird. Happens on missed/late drops going backside in hollow waves when you have to bail - board gets taken over nose first, fins and tail pointed upwards. Airs too.