Really good wave boards

Sharkbiscuit

Duke status
Aug 6, 2003
28,402
21,828
113
Jacksonville Beach
Also I basically know jack sh!t about really good wave boards, but to offer a mini-wave kook's opinion instead of just shitposting...

There are really good waves like Teahupoo or some waves at spots like that where there's a really square compact pit and you kind of have to get under it, and there's not the same early entry options as more open faced spots. IMHO going longer and relaxing rocker can set you up for some hellacious pearl/nosedive/whiplash into flats/absolutely industrial pressed by the lip/over the falls/spin cycle ass beatings.

I totally never tried to pretend I was a tube dude in Mainland Mex on my 6'10" one day after I got the slightest bit of confidence and kind of spun underneath and had exactly this happen to me or anything.

Then there are really good waves where the drop isn't an extremely late vert knife into the warped out pit. It's a little more open, rolls in and lets you kickstall and set up the keg...these waves IMHO you can absolutely get away with more length and a little less rocker to get more paddle/positioning/early entry.
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,295
9,940
113
eastside oahu
If I post about quiet quitting then it’s not really quiet yeah?

Crap.

Took the HIC/Kerry Tokoro M7 out to my NS regular. Waves were mixed up but fun. I would’ve used another boar with less rocker but wanted to give the new whip a go. First wave boar felt really loose but I wasn’t on the gas pedal. I think I lost weight and my paddling shape hasn’t deteriorated too much with the lack of surf. Boar got into the little double ups pretty good.

Some of the bigger outside waves would burger out so I sat inside looking for the chest to head high double ups. I got a nice one that had a corner that I put the boar on rail and it felt really good. Went down the line and hit another corner and did a snap carve The boar felt so good holding in and it threw a bunch of spray I just got caught up in watching the fan that I didn’t rotate for the rebound fast enough and the white wash bucked me off. Haha.

Waves slowed down and got more NE so I moved in and sat even wider. Got another double up runner. Pumped down the line and the section broke in front of me and I squared off and got a smash to go in on.

The thumb tail instead of the usual pin on the M7 adds drive to the boar. Widening the outline in the nose sure felt like it helps with paddling into waves.

Waves weren’t inthe really good category but the boar lit up when I found the pocket. Can’t wait for a more solid swell.
 

santacruzin

Tom Curren status
Oct 17, 2007
11,143
15,377
113
valley purgatory
Go to CI shop.

There’s a 6’6 Black Beauty in there with your name on it. Extra glass too.

Or, if you are a more diminutive type there’s also a 6’3 with “S” labeled glass job.
Scored the 6’3 thanks again for the heads up!

weird how they have so many step ups with UL glassing, seemed like all the happy travelers had this. :foreheadslap:
 
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Dec 1, 2021
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Scored the 6’3 thanks again for the heads up!

weird how they have so many step ups with UL glassing, seemed like all the happy travelers had this. :foreheadslap:
did the 6'3 black beauty end up working out for you? there's a used 6'6 for sale near me I was thinking about but its like a 5L bump up in volume.
 
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santacruzin

Tom Curren status
Oct 17, 2007
11,143
15,377
113
valley purgatory
did the 6'3 black beauty end up working out for you? there's a used 6'6 for sale near me I was thinking about but its like a 5L bump up in volume.
Got some of the best waves of my life. The board was perfect. It’s sitting in the corner of the living room patient;y waiting for some swell now. I posted a trip report/board review here somewhere
 

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
13,211
26,870
113
PNW
I can’t find it :roflmao: