Reality check

[Lakookaracha]

Looking to solve for the headish + slopey wave.

I pretend to be a competent shortboarder just like everyone else, but there’s no denying I can’t make them any fun when it’s a burger fest.

I have an egg that never really clicked, and lost money on a yolo’d chilli mid strength that I didn’t enjoy.

My latest scheme is a slightly stretched, but still foiled out modern quad fish.

Maybe 6’6 x 20 and ~34L

The boards I pretend on are 31-32.

For the record I don’t need a groveller for small surf, I’ve got that covered. I’m looking for something to get in early and do smooth wraps on head high soft faces.

 

[tedshred5]

get a 6'6 x 20 x 2 1/2 Album Moonstone

 

[billypilgrim]

Christenson Cafe Racer

 

[jkb]

This is where a solid DD should shine. Have you tried shapes like a Stamps Flare or a Pyzalian 2 in this situation? Are you looking for more glide than those offer or have you just not found a shortboard that clicks in those conditions?

 

[tedshred5]

a 6'2 Pyzalien 2 as a quad would also do the trick

 

[kool-aid]

The first question is why didn't you like the mid-lengths? 6'6 x 20 x 34L is pretty low volume for a board of those dimensions. You can easily get 34L in a 6'0 - 6'2. I find under-volumed mid-lengths to be not fun at all, is 34L enough volume?

 

[000]

2/3 fish
1/3 shortboard
paddles easy, planes early
turns better than a fat swallowtailed fish
anything that looks similar should do

 

[Sharkbiscuit]

Looking to solve for the headish + slopey wave.

there’s no denying I can’t make them any fun when it’s a burger fest.

I have an egg that never really clicked, and lost money on a yolo’d chilli mid strength that I didn’t enjoy.

My latest scheme is a slightly stretched, but still foiled out modern quad fish.

For the record I don’t need a groveller for small surf, I’ve got that covered. I’m looking for something to get in early and do smooth wraps on head high soft faces.

I don't understand how the groveller doesn't work?

Sometimes on groundswells we get very long walled up lines that are flat-faced and you really need a shitload of early entry and projection.

I ride my Bean Bag when it gets like that, but that sounds maybe egg-ish to me.

 

[Lakookaracha]

This is where a solid DD should shine. Have you tried shapes like a Stamps Flare or a Pyzalian 2 in this situation? Are you looking for more glide than those offer or have you just not found a shortboard that clicks in those conditions?

Current DD is a Timmy Patterson Stoked 6’0 @ 31.7L

A board like this to me feels anemic when there’s no real push, and I’m having to scramble all the time to generate propulsion and energy.

ETA: Yes, perhaps more glide is the descriptor I’m looking for!

Still wanna pretend I’m rad though

 

[Lakookaracha]

The first question is why didn't you like the mid-lengths? 6'6 x 20 x 34L is pretty low volume for a board of those dimensions. You can easily get 34L in a 6'0 - 6'2. I find under-volumed mid-lengths to be not fun at all, is 34L enough volume?

The Mid Stength was a 6’8 x 21 3/8 @ ~41L

Got in early and went down the line, but even with quads it never felt like I could do smooth wraps or cutbacks (which are one of my few manoeuvres I can confidently say I do well on a short board).

Just felt wicked bulky.

I believe 34l is enough as long as there’s also enough length to assist in entry and add stability for the odd speedy event. Maybe 6’2 is enough length?

 

[Lakookaracha]

2/3 fish
1/3 shortboard
paddles easy, planes early
turns better than a fat swallowtailed fish
anything that looks similar should do

View attachment 169804

I like the sound of 2/3 fish 1/3 shortboard

 

[bird.LA]

Current DD is a Timmy Patterson Stoked 6’0 @ 31.7L

A board like this to me feels anemic when there’s no real push, and I’m having to scramble all the time to generate propulsion and energy.

I'd go with something stubbier. Stamps Flare maybe?

 

[Hazrus]

I've never ridden one, but perhaps a Pander Shiitake or Shiitake HP?

 

[Northern_Shores]

Current DD is a Timmy Patterson Stoked 6’0 @ 31.7L

A board like this to me feels anemic when there’s no real push, and I’m having to scramble all the time to generate propulsion and energy.

Riding Italo's CT board in shitburgers probably won't work. Just get a Timmy for badder waves?

"Prepare to encounter the enigmatic allure of "The Board With No Name," a surfboard that defies traditional labels and invites you on a journey of unparalleled exploration."


The woke board!

The Board With No Name by T.Patterson Surfboards

Customize and order the Board With No Name model by Timmy Patterson Surfboards

www.tpattersonsurfboards.com

 

[Lakookaracha]

I don't understand how the groveller doesn't work?

Sometimes on groundswells we get very long walled up lines that are flat-faced and you really need a shitload of early entry and projection.

I ride my Bean Bag when it gets like that, but that sounds maybe egg-ish to me.

My groveler is a 5’5” pluggy wide quad I run with speed dialers. I love it when it’s meager and below chest to shoulder. Anything above that it gets too wild and squirrelly for me.

The waves you mention above, what size are they and are they at a lined up point etc?

What I mostly deal with is inconsistent beach break and usually a decent amount of paddling when at least head high. When it’s also soft and burgery I can get frustrated on my short boards.

 

[Lakookaracha]

I'd go with something stubbier. Stamps Flare maybe?

I have a Neckbeard 2 which I love as a small wave short board. 5’10 and can also feel squirrelly once it’s head plus .

This is why I’m thinking I need more rail, as well as the added length helping with early entry.‍♂

 

[Lakookaracha]

Riding Italo's CT board in shitburgers probably won't work. Just get a Timmy for badder waves?

"Prepare to encounter the enigmatic allure of "The Board With No Name," a surfboard that defies traditional labels and invites you on a journey of unparalleled exploration."


The woke board!

The Board With No Name by T.Patterson Surfboards

Customize and order the Board With No Name model by Timmy Patterson Surfboards

www.tpattersonsurfboards.com

To be clear while it’s Italo’s board I selected mine in the appropriately chubbier “realist” dims.

That board linked looks cool! But at 6’2 it’s already over 35l.

It’s quite possible I’m missing something here with the obsession with a longer outline…

 

[Sharkbiscuit]

My groveler is a 5’5” pluggy wide quad I run with speed dialers. I love it when it’s meager and below chest to shoulder. Anything above that it gets too wild and squirrelly for me.

The waves you mention above, what size are they and are they at a lined up point etc?

What I mostly deal with is inconsistent beach break and usually a decent amount of paddling when at least head high. When it’s also soft and burgery I can get frustrated on my short boards.

I find the vast majority of shortboards have comically too much rocker for the waves I'm talking about. Soooooo flat-faced. I ride my Bean Bag in surf from 16-18 second period hurricane swell, with offshores, which can be lined up and walled but not steep at all, and I ride it in junky, short period when tide+sandbar = very soft that loves to back off, mush out, reform....

It does the job for me in all those conditions. In the long period, the shortboard wouldn't get in and down the line fast enough - it tends to be walled and you need to get in early and get a high line going and keep speed. In the short period, it gets into the very gutless waves and holds speed well when doing cutbacks.

I use keels in my Bean Bags. When it's very small I'll go no quad rears. Otherwise I'll go very small flat-foiled quad rears.

The surf I am talking about is too flat-faced for the board to feel wild/squirrelly, unless I am not using a quad trailer at all AND my foot is way back AND I'm pushing hard on it off the bottom/top but off the top the slidey release can be part of the fun.

If you can try bigger front fins maybe your current grovel board will hold, otherwise, good luck in your quest and I'd say a bit more rail line and a bit less tail width - but keep the rocker low otherwise it might feel slow in the flat faced-ness.

I dunno about the long fish but basically every time I have a design I like and I just think I'll blow the dims up and it'll work, it doesn't really work and more is lost than gained. That said if the long fish is flat with a narrower tailblock than your pluggy wide quad that might be the ticket.

 

[Lakookaracha]

I've never ridden one, but perhaps a Pander Shiitake or Shiitake HP?

These look cool. Never ridden a twinzer.

 

[Aruka]

Current DD is a Timmy Patterson Stoked 6’0 @ 31.7L

A board like this to me feels anemic when there’s no real push, and I’m having to scramble all the time to generate propulsion and energy.

Ive had a TP Stoked as well and I felt similarly about it in mushy reef waves that sound similar to what you're describing. In small, punchy beachies it went great.

I have a spot at home that is pretty much never surfable on an true HP thruster but it can be super fun on the right board. Its usually chest high+ when I surf it and even when its good its just got this funky flat transition at the bottom of the wave that makes it so hard to do proper turns on.

A fish can be fun when its clean but it rarely is and when it gets overhead its a pretty big playing field to paddle a 5-10 around in.

A longer twin is probably my favorite. 6-4 to 7-2. Album townsend pretty much always felt good out there. Mine are not super wide like many off the rack mids. 6-6 x 19 3/4 × 2 9/16 are the dims for the shorter Townsend RP I think.

Havent ridden a Moonstone but everyone seems to like them.

Longer boards are so nice for that early entry behind the section but the penalty comes when you go for cutty's and whatnot. If you dont often ride longer boards there is a learning curve but I think its worth pursuing. The skills transfer pretty directly over to step ups and I think can help your shortboarding as well by smoothing out your style.

I tried the Mid6 at the mushy reef and it just felt like too much rocker. Even at 7-0 it didnt get in that early or highline sections very well and I cant remember how wide it is but it felt kinda wide. HP mids so far for me have not been great.

As much as I like the long twins for their versatility and ease, i do sometimes want to ride something a bit more rippy at this mushy wave when its decent.

The sharpeye disco and disco cheater have been fun but they get overwhelmed once the waves get bigger.